5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

rebuilt motor

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Old 03-06-2005, 05:01 PM
  #11  
vfast
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Default RE: rebuilt motor

i'm thinking either the crank is bent or has the wrong bearings or a few other things..
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Old 03-06-2005, 05:09 PM
  #12  
Tims 88GT
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Default RE: rebuilt motor

yeah that is what i would say, did you get the crank polished or anything?
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Old 03-07-2005, 06:18 PM
  #13  
bluepony1
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Default RE: rebuilt motor

not really a rebuild just removed everything but crank to replace pistons rods seals gaskets and what not and pu he 1 rod in and torked down and know i cant move the crank with a breaker bar if all else fails i will remove bottom end and plastiaguage the rod bearins the check clearence
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Old 03-07-2005, 07:04 PM
  #14  
vfast
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Default RE: rebuilt motor

that's what you should had done in the first place do no short cuts on rebuilding an engine
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Old 03-07-2005, 09:05 PM
  #15  
83GT306
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Default RE: rebuilt motor


ORIGINAL: bluepony1

not really a rebuild just removed everything but crank to replace pistons rods seals gaskets and what not and pu he 1 rod in and torked down and know i cant move the crank with a breaker bar if all else fails i will remove bottom end and plastiaguage the rod bearins the check clearence
I'm confused...did you take the rods and pistons out to hone the cylinders for new rings?
Or did you take the original parts out to replace them with new pistons and rods?
How did you measure piston to wall clearance to tell if it needs an overbore?

My advice is to take all the parts to a machine shop and have them tell you what it needs, then when you get the block, crank, and rods w/ pistons pressed on back, then reassemble it with new rings and bearings.

I'm wondering how you got the pistons out in the first place without breaking the ringlands on the pistons if there was a wear ridge at the top of the cylinders? Or maybe the cylinders weren't worn?
There's a tool called a ridge reamer to cut the ridge down, but I don't think you can just re-hone the cylinders after using a ridge reamer, the block usually has to be re-bored because the wear ridge was created by the top piston ring, and if you cut deeper than the actual ridge, new rings will never seal again.
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