ALMOST STOCK

In my case ; becausemy rearmain was leaking.

I Replaced the original rear main, and that leaked.

Replaced that rear main by tighten the spring (read that somewhere) by cutting offone end and threading it into the other end in to make it tighter to stop the leaking.






Replaced that rear main andsealed things with RTV...IT leaked again.


Replaced that rear mainagain, this time with a recommended sleeve




Replaced thatwith aTeflon seal




And that stopped my rear main oil leak.


With all that said all I've ever done is remove the driveshaft and mounts , removed the bellhousing, clutch and throwout bearing , and pressure plate to replace the rear main.

WhiteWindsor

I got my two peice block machined to a one piece and still have a leak. Next time i am using felpro.

NYMustang50

So theres no need to remove the oil pan. Just remove the tranny and flywheel and how do I get the old one out? Also should I while I'm there replace the spring thing almost stock said along with the seal it self??? But other than that it sounds easy.. I was told that I since its a one piece that I would have to pull the pan down and the rear main cap inorder to do it. But if what you guys are saying is correct **** sounds like cake because I already had the pan down and that was a b*tch to do in order to replace the oil pan gasket which I thought that was the leak.

my77stang

i have a two piece crank machined for a one piece block and we used a seal saver, it will work purrrrrfectly

ALMOST STOCK

Nope..No need to remove the oil pan.
You can get the old rear main by screwinga screw into the soft rubber of theold rear main and just pull it out with pliers. BE CAREFULthough not to screw the screw into deep you could nick or scratch the crank.

As for replacing the spring, you don't need to do that; there is a spring already in the new rear main you've already purchased.
I had read somewhere that by cutting a couple of links off the spring it would tighten the spring enough thus stopping the leak in the rear main. Believe me it doesn't work .. or it didn't for me any way.

my77stang

the problem is the new seal rides in the groove the old seal created in the crank. if your slick, you can knock the new seal in *almost* all the way in (it would need to be even all the way around) and the new seal will now be riding on a new spot...... problem solved.

ALMOST STOCK

The crank was turned when I had the engine rebuilt and blue printed, there was no existing groove.

my77stang

sounds like they ground the rear main instead of sleeving it which makes the whole thing as small as the old groove or even smaller

ALMOST STOCK

And we could second guess/ debate what they did (neither knowing exactly what they did) all night long.

You seem to have a rear main fix that works for you and sleeving never worked for me it's just that simple.