Ketis

There is a bunch of diff lube all over the front of my rear end.

I have the driveshaft and the hub that it bolts to off.

Has anyone replaced this seal before? and what do i need to do in order to replace it.


Thanks,
Keith

silver91gt

well, now that you took off the bolt you will need a new crush sleeve for the pinion.
the only way to change it is to take out the pinion and pry out the seal, hammer in the new one and lube it up, then put the pinion 'gear back in with a new crush sleeve.

it may be possible to pry it out with the pinion in there but it will probably just fall in the case, and then you will still need to take it out to put in a new crush sleeve.

AdderMk2

congrats... you have basically screwed up your rear end..

I wonder how many times its going to take you to get the pinion pre-load proper

Ketis

so, i have to take out the diff?

what is the correct procedure to get everything back now?

i mean it had to come off to replace that seal anyway right?

capri debris

He has NOT screwed up his rear. After prying the old seal out and cleaning everything with paint thinner, all that you have to do is put some RTV on the back side of the new seal and tap it in with a hammer, then put the flange back in, put red Loctite on the threads and run the pinion nut back down snug with a 3/8 rachet, then use an impact wrench and just "blip" the trigger briefly one or two times... DO NOT over tighten or you will have to do what the others have said and take the rear apart and put a new crush collar in and re-set the pinion preload. I've done this many times and it is OK... more than likely, the rear has many miles on it since the rear was put together and the pinion pre load is much less now that the bearing has lots of wear on it. Doing what I decribed will put the preload back to where it was when the rear was first built. Just DO NOT over do it or the bearing will not last long at all.

Ketis

the nut isnt a 3/8, its a 1"1/16

is there a good way to do this without an impact wrench?

capri debris

Use a 3/8 DRIVE rachet not a 3/8 SOCKET. The reason is so you don't have enough leverage to overtighten it. Just snug it with the rachet and then get an impact and do like I said. Borrow one from someone... it's the only way I like to do it. You could use a breaker bar, but you run the risk of overtightening it... and that is what you want to avoid at all cost!

Maxwelhse

I think he ment use a 3/8" ratchet so you don't over do it... Anyhow.

Yes... I ran mine down to 100 ft-lbs with a torque wrench; 4,000 miles ago... No real problems, but I admit the rear end is a bit whiney on deceleration sometimes... No big deal, especially if a gear swap is in your future plans anyhow...

Also, in addition to the above advice, I would get a seal saver/speedy sleeve for the yoke. 9 out of 10 times the old seal wears a groove on the yoke, so even with a new seal it will still leak if you don't repair the yoke. And... In addition to loctite on the threads, I also recommend rolling the threads over a little after the nut is installed. You don't have to got crazy there, just tap the thread immediately in front of the nut a couple of times with a medium hammer and a dull punch. That will prevent the nut from unintentionally backing off.

Technically, the guys that are saying you need to set you gears up again are right, but 90% of the time you'll get away with what Capri and I are recommending, and have done in the past (multiple times).

dimebag

um wow... i dont suggest that... but yea go for it

esp the 100ft/lbs thing....

but what do i know?[8D]

Ketis

well, what should i do then if you dont recomend that?