84_302

hey i have a 1984 must 302 with a c4 automatic tranny and 9 inch rear axel. I dont have much money but want to upgrade the engine to make it faster ...it has a holley 660 vacuum carb on it and thats it... what do you think would be the best way for quick horsepower that cost efficient... i'm already lookin at headers ... but dont know what ones are good for the money..please help

Ninety5five0

Heads would be your best bet, hell even a set of e7s would flow better than what you got for stock heads

I'd look into a set of gt40s, or gt40ps.

ahittz24

Performance cost money. You can do simple things like intake manifold and such, but you arent going to see big improvments until you drop some change on your engine. Heads, Cam Nitrous and Other power adders cost money and give you the most gains.

my77stang

do a cam swap, the hyd. flat tappet cams were just terrible in their stock forms. you can pickup a cam and lifter kit for 100 bucks from summit or p.a.w. - but if your being cheap and your going to reuse stock springs you need to keep the cams lift under .475 (.450 would be even better)

Gary H

Gears. It may not make more HP, but it will feel quicker. If you get headers, be prepared to fork out more $$. None will bolt up to the stock y-pipe. Whats the 9in out of?

Hamutoff

My opinion is:
1)keep driving EXACTLY what you've got.
2)get an 87-(93)up to 95 complete long block from some mustang/fox ford... get no greater than 93 and mustang if you want all the goddies. This is the best way imo if anything goes wrong you have plenty of time and work + time = money so do it once and do it right. You dont want to mess with re-doing major engine work bent over that damn engine compartment for hours * days....
Get one of these engines... even if the seller wants to keep the heads because what you *really* want is the shortblock but if you just get that it might have been (someting nasty) by the prev. user. Best case get one that is running or the car just got rear-ended and junked pull that engine, get good heads you could get **400 crank hp** with really good heads.... like the AFR 165cc... just using the stock roller camshaft http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...dup/index.html

Hamutoff

well anyway if you follow that article you will get approxmimate results... but you dont have to add those heads until you are ready. Spend some time getting a good 5.0 HO, and just do a simple stock freshen-up clean, gaskets etc install and go!! (your carb is a correct size)

Thats why I was sayin' to get a long block like another poster said the stock E7TE (heads these engines come with) are far better than what you've got. This plan wont waste time/money in fact will give you a foundation for the future....

Later when you have an extra $1300 you go and get some nice heads... maybe the 165 afr.. btw the 185 afr dont make more power on a otherwise stock 5.0 so imo go for the 165

my77stang

the only reason the E7's are better than his are because they have a smaller chamber - they still flow about as bad as my *** when im constipated.

as mentioned, gears would be a great upgrade. a cam would help, as would headers. THEN start worrying about better heads, and when you do - grab a set of GT40 / early 351w heads or something better. dont waste your time "upgrading" to E7's

67mustang302

LOL! That's signature material right there.

Hamutoff

my77stang very true I agree, however wouldn't an 87-92 engine: E7TE plus its HO cam, the compartive compression bump with its forged pistons all together will be a better effect than just E7TE heads on his old engine.. therefore I agree dont waste time swapping E7TE heads on the old engine, I would go much farther and say he might as well remove/replace that sucker as a whole unit.... hell if he's tearing into it at all might as well[8D]

The 1984 mustang v8:

175 hp
non-roller
your block is E2AE-6010-KA
(120 lbs.) revised for one piece rear seal @ 83-1/2

85 and on
E5AE-6010-DC
(122 lbs.) revised for roller tappets

The best (reusable) thing about your engine imo is the crankshaft