5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Question???

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Old 11-16-2007, 03:25 PM
  #1  
suzukispeeder
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Ok 93 lx 5.0 cam, rollers, gt 40intake, edelbrock performer heads.

2 mechanics worked on it 6 months prior to me getting it

When I traded this car for my civic it didnt run, changed fuel pump got it running but not running right
did comp test #2, #4 low took heads off and #2 had bent intake and # 4 had Ithought one on the exhaust, but guy who done the valve job said it was fine. I had heads resurfaced, valve job, all new gaskets and I put it back together started it up idled fine I sounded good wasnt smoking like before, my bro in law checked timing and he said it was on 35 or 40 ( but nothing was banging at that timing stuff should be slapping right) so he set it back to 13 and it loped so bad it was about to die, then I cut it off put spout back in and it wouldnt start back. So i read up and restabbed distributor it started right up but still loping bad, so I back out of garage and it cut off so I took all plugs out to look and #4 is clean like before I had valve job( but #4 piston, comb. chamber and everything was cleaner than the other cyl) anyway I got to #8 and spark plug must have gotten hit at some point hook was up against the electrode. The only thing I can figure besides I dont know what I'm doing is when I put the pushrods back in and the rockers I must of messed up because I didnt check anything guy at machine shop said pick a cyl and tighten down till no slack in pushrod the tighten all the way he said anywhere from a half to one and half turns is ok no more no less I did this and the where all between a half a a full turn. Any Ideas. I'm ready to sell, give or push off cliff maybe with me init I'm outa of my realm but dont want to mess engine up so I might need to take to mechaninc and spend a lot of money I'm sure.

Oh yea first mech that worked on it before I got it supposedely put crank or sumptin backwards according to the 2nd mech. but hell who knows maybe the 1st was right and second was wrong.
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Old 11-16-2007, 03:33 PM
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dimebag
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Default RE: Question???

yea... so... ur question is?
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Old 11-16-2007, 03:35 PM
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dimebag
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Default RE: Question???

i tink i know what ur asking...

pull the motor, take the top end off, pull the oil pan... diss assemble the bottom end... replace rings/bearings... changes are its rings causing no comp in that cylinder if u just redid the heads... and might as well do bearing while ur there. depending what the cylinder walls look like, might have to bore it and replace the pistons

or find a new shortblock...
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Old 11-16-2007, 04:41 PM
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suzukispeeder
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Default RE: Question???

1st question was what would have caused the spark plug to get hit

the 1 st mechanic changed the crank bearings and journals so brother in law said and cylinder walls look good, and compression even for 4 was over 100 after I put together, before valve job it was about 25 or 50 cant remember

Anyways if I cant get it running right I guess Im in NC with a 93 lx for sale if anyone wants a project car who knows might be something simple. Im just used to the imports
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Old 11-16-2007, 04:48 PM
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WhiteWindsor
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Default RE: Question???

About the only thing to hit a spark plug would be the piston, not good. I know you said over a hundred, it should well over a hundred. If you cant do work your self, you would save a lot of money by pulling the engine and tearing it down yourself if the problem is that serous, which it sounds like it may be.
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Old 11-16-2007, 10:43 PM
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dimebag
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Default RE: Question???

thats some ****... for a piston to hit a spark plug

dont sell the car... **** imports...

hell if u want a step by step on what to do, i can do that for ya... its not hard, hell my motor is all apart right now...
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Old 11-16-2007, 10:54 PM
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WhiteWindsor
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Default RE: Question???

If you can post a pic of plug. There is a pic of damaged plug in this link.

http://aboutkarting.com/plugs/
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Old 11-16-2007, 11:14 PM
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AdderMk2
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Default RE: Question???

i'd be willing to bet someone installed an incorrect plug. Stock stangs use a plug with a .46" reach. a .7" reach plug could come into contact with a valve, or piston
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Old 11-18-2007, 05:57 PM
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suzukispeeder
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Default RE: Question???

they were the autolite 25 is that right.

I dont know whats going on I just put the top end back together and all this happens I dont know whats wrong, unless I could have it that bad outta time, but it still seems like it still should have some clearance. I guess I just need to tare down the whole engine to make sure I should have done it while it was taken 2 weeks to get a valve job. If I put anymore money in it I will have to keep it and I wasnt planning on keeping it but I want it fixed right.

Could the timing be that bad off to cause the sparkplug to get tapped or could I have put the pushrods and rockers back on wrong any ideas and help appreciated
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Old 11-18-2007, 07:08 PM
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92GreyGT
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Default RE: Question???

When you set the distributor timing you are setting the time that the spark plug fires. What you are thinking of is cam timing. At any rate unless you have dome pistons or your block is decked excessively I have no idea what could have hit that plug. Autolite 25 is the correct plug for E7TE heads or GT40s. With the spout out at idle the timing should be around 12-16 degrees advanced. If you have a big cam in it it is going to lope at idle, if it won't stay running screw in the throttle body stop screw some to make it idle so you can try and sort this out. I would gap another plug and spin the engine over by hand and see if it hits. If it doens't start it up, turn it off and check that plug.
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