roundman

when you go back to the auto parts store, have them check the output of your alternator after they charge up the battery. if they say the alternator is OK, then buy an inexpensive 12 volt test light and take the car home and disconnect the negative battery cable. with the cable disconnected, the battery cannot be drained down overnight. with the cable disconnected, when you have time, connect the test light between the end of the cable and the battery post. make sure all the electrical things are turned off and pull the light bulb out of the underhood light too. if the test light comes on just a little bit, this is the normal current draw from the ECU, but if it lights up a lot, then there is something drawing current when it should not be doing it. leave the test light connected and go to the main fuse in the line for your stereo equipment. disconnect this fuse and check the light. if it stays on, then the problem is not with the stereo. go to the main fuse panel and pull the fuses one at a time and see if the light goes out. when the light goes out, that circuit is where the current draw is coming from and you will need to trace down the wiring in that circuit to find out what is pulling current when it's not supposed to be doing so and fix that item.

mustang8719

Not trying to start a debate. The reason I told him to do a search and buy a multimeter is because it is auctualy the amps that kills the battery not the volts.We have posted in the past how to check parasitic draw.You can have a .50 volt pull with .002 amps.You can also have a .50 volt pull with .20 amps pull and that will kill the battery faster.

Originaly I was taught the test light way to but was proven wrong a number of times that why I learned the other way to find the fault properly.

Dejavu

Freakin sweet!!!!

I'll go out and buy all that tomorrow and stuff and try all that!!!- the bad thing is that I can't move my car because it doesn't have plates so I can't have my alternator checked- but I'll go and buy a test light and try what you told me roundman!!!

Thanks for the info too mustang8719, I was planning on buying a multimeter too cause I was reading the haynes manual and it says its good to have one- I already bought a code scanner but I haven't used it yet because the battery has been dead( took it to autozone to have it recharged AND tested after recharged) i have tomorrow off so I"m gonna go and get the test light

Thanks guys!!


Dejavu

Dejavu

When I think of roundman, I think of fuzzy coalas...I love his advice!

SO NOT GAY! I CAN PROVE IT!!!


Dejavu

angcobra

Multi meter will be a good thing to have in your tool box. There are good uses for both the test light and multi meter.
I do think you have something drawing more amps than it should, it maybe the alarm system.

Dejavu

Yeah cobra, I thought of that too, if thats the problem what could be the solution? seperate battery for the alarm?

Thanks

mustang8719

If the alarm is causing it you would have to disconnect it or replace it.Depending on what is bad.

roundman

I was just giving him the cheapest way I know of to check for a current draw is all. And with everything supposedly OFF, there should be little to no draw at all on the battery unless something is wrong in the connections or wiring of whatever it is that's drawing the battery down. I would also recommend he buy a good multimeter too and learn how to use it also as they are more useful than a cheap test light, but then again I'm a penny pincher type of guy too! LOL

BTW dejavu, you could pull the alternator and take it to the auto parts place and have them bench test it for you!

Dejavu

Hehe, ya....I thought of that but man it looks like alot of work and i'm working in a parking space =\ grrr I need a house with a double garage!

But soon enough I'll be able to drive the car and then I'll take it and have it all checked and stuff, or take it to a mechanic....

Dejavu

mustang8719

The alternator should take you about 10 minutes to remove if it is still stock.If it is not still might only take 20 min to remove.