soft brakes !
11-19-2007, 11:55 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 21
soft brakes !
ok guys and girls so problems with my fox.... i no this is the 5.0 section and my car is a 2.3 but i just need a quick response because more people post here. i had my front brakes done end of the spring i mean everythign the lines the rotors the pads and the drums out back got the pads replaced like 4 months ago. i live in nj and went for my inspection and they said i failed because lack of braking power in the back compared to the front. i have been noticing that i have to press the brakes harder then usual moslty on highway usually rt 4 n 17 if anyone knows so im thinkin theres air in my brakes and just have to be bleed. quick response would be great b4 i send her into the shopn get hammered with rackin bills
thanks in advance
JJfox
thanks in advance
JJfox
11-20-2007, 12:43 AM
#2
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 336
RE: soft brakes !
Did you replace the master cylinder? Softer pedal pressure, or failing pedal pressure usually indicates that this part is reaching failure in my experience. At least that is what has happened on both of my '66's. Do anything to the booster?
11-20-2007, 12:52 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 21
RE: soft brakes !
yup the master cylinder was replaced with a new one....... now the booster little confused here? no the pedal pressure is fine just that i have to pump them because i dunt feel the brakes coming on in the rear and all the stress on the front only...reason i believe theres air in the lines is because everytime i pull the emergency brake and drop it back down and hit the brakes i feel them kick in but go away after a while. maybe im wrong about the airin lines any help is appreciated thanks
11-20-2007, 12:58 AM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 336
RE: soft brakes !
By your title of "soft brakes" I read that to mean that your pedal pressure was effected too...sorry about that.Probably won't hurt to try bleeding them. SorryI couldn't be of furtherhelp.Good luck
11-20-2007, 01:23 AM
#5
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 81
RE: soft brakes !
could be needing bled yes. but you say the rears arent grabbing as well as the fronts. thats not unusual if theyre drums anyway. but if you think its not right, could need the shoes ajusted out, could have a pinched line, especially if the mechanic had to make the lines. could be a few things causing it.
11-21-2007, 01:26 AM
#9
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 30
RE: soft brakes !
I just had this problem with my LTD LX and it turned out to be air in the lines for the rear brakes. Get a hand vacuum pump and suck the fluid through the system starting with the rear and going to the front. When you do this, just crack the bleeder loose a little bit so you don't just suck air around the loose threads. Make sure you keep an eye on the level in the Master and not suck it all out. I think you will fix your problem, mine works great now.
TED
TED
11-21-2007, 01:34 AM
#10
Yukon Cornelius
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: deep in the heart of dixie GEORGIA
Posts: 11,808
RE: soft brakes !
the exact way to blled your brakes
Bleeding the brakes requires a properly sized box wrench for the bleeder and the clear plastic bleed hose provided with your system. Good quality, non-silicone fluid is also a must. Baer Brakes has tested a wide variety of fluids and strongly recommends Performance Friction’s Z-Rated fluid #90016 for street and occasional track use (with Motorcraft PM1 our backup suggestion for this same duty). These two have been proven to be more effective than fluids that are often many times more expensive. For racing, Baer recommends and uses only Castrol SRF. Baer stocks and sells both the Performance Friction Z-Rated and Castrol SRF. Always remember, good to excellent brakes or fluid do not function without adequate cooling. In fact, the more serious your brake system, the more attention that needs to be directed to proper ducting, as they will generate more heat due to increased capacity. BLEEDING BRAKES IS NOT DONE WITH PRESSURE, IT IS PURELY A FUNCTION OF MOVING FLUID THROUGH THE SYSTEM. THE OBJECT IS TO DISPLACE AIR, NOT TO SEE HOW FAR FLUID CAN BE SHOT OUT OF THE CALIPER!
Proper Bleeding Technique Enlist someone who will help you bleed the brakes. Make sure they also read these instructions carefully (so they understand the goal). [ol][*]For systems which are essentially dry front and rear, start by filling the master cylinder with proper fluid. Pour slowly so as not to aerate the fluid.[*]Next, move to the first caliper, attach the clear plastic bleed hose to the bleeder and open it. Hold the hose upright so that you can monitor the escape of air bubbles. VERY SLOWLY stroke the brake pedal by hand or foot until fluid comes out. Now close the bleeder.[*]ACTUAL BLEEDING SEQUENCE: [ul][*]Have your partner very slowly, with modest pressure (approximately 25-30 lbs.ft.), stroke the pedal ONE TIME until hydraulic resistance is encountered. Ask your partner to hold at this point with the same modest and even pressure and notify you that he is “holding.”[*]Open the bleeder, letting the pedal go to the floor or until it stops, using the same modest level of pressure, then close the bleeder again. Notify your partner “the system is sealed.” He can then slowly release pedal pressure.[/ul][*]Repeat the BLEEDING SEQUENCE (never stroke the pedal more than one time) until all signs of air are purged (no bubbles) from fluid. IMPORTANT [ul][*]NOTE: DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY! Be sure to check the fluid level after every third bleeding sequence or sooner if reservoir volume is very small.[/ul][*]Before moving to the next caliper, take a small block of wood or a plastic hammer and carefully tap the caliper to dislodge any additional air bubbles that may be trapped. Then bleed one last time.[*]Move to the next caliper and repeat the procedures previously outlined. Continue until all calipers have been bled. Before re-installing wheels and placing the car on the ground, we recommend you carefully wipe clean all caliper surfaces, hose joints and fittings, making sure they are all dry and free from seepage. If not, inspect and tighten appropriately. Spray all rotor surfaces with Brake Kleen® or a similar product to remove all dirt and oils from your hands that may have been transferred to the rotor during assembly. Also remember to remove the nut that has been holding rotor in place before attempting to re-install the wheel.[/ol] For street use, as with any time you open the brake system, it may be advisable to repeat the bleeding procedure after driving the vehicle for a day, as driving the car may dislodge some additional air bubbles. For competition cars, we recommend repeating this procedure directly after at least the first two sessions the car is on track and at the beginning of each race weekend thereafter. Even if your pedal is high and firm and additional bleeding is deemed unnecessary, always inspect the calipers, hoses and fittings after the first outing for signs of any fluid seepage and correct immediately.
Bleeding the brakes requires a properly sized box wrench for the bleeder and the clear plastic bleed hose provided with your system. Good quality, non-silicone fluid is also a must. Baer Brakes has tested a wide variety of fluids and strongly recommends Performance Friction’s Z-Rated fluid #90016 for street and occasional track use (with Motorcraft PM1 our backup suggestion for this same duty). These two have been proven to be more effective than fluids that are often many times more expensive. For racing, Baer recommends and uses only Castrol SRF. Baer stocks and sells both the Performance Friction Z-Rated and Castrol SRF. Always remember, good to excellent brakes or fluid do not function without adequate cooling. In fact, the more serious your brake system, the more attention that needs to be directed to proper ducting, as they will generate more heat due to increased capacity. BLEEDING BRAKES IS NOT DONE WITH PRESSURE, IT IS PURELY A FUNCTION OF MOVING FLUID THROUGH THE SYSTEM. THE OBJECT IS TO DISPLACE AIR, NOT TO SEE HOW FAR FLUID CAN BE SHOT OUT OF THE CALIPER!
Proper Bleeding Technique Enlist someone who will help you bleed the brakes. Make sure they also read these instructions carefully (so they understand the goal). [ol][*]For systems which are essentially dry front and rear, start by filling the master cylinder with proper fluid. Pour slowly so as not to aerate the fluid.[*]Next, move to the first caliper, attach the clear plastic bleed hose to the bleeder and open it. Hold the hose upright so that you can monitor the escape of air bubbles. VERY SLOWLY stroke the brake pedal by hand or foot until fluid comes out. Now close the bleeder.[*]ACTUAL BLEEDING SEQUENCE: [ul][*]Have your partner very slowly, with modest pressure (approximately 25-30 lbs.ft.), stroke the pedal ONE TIME until hydraulic resistance is encountered. Ask your partner to hold at this point with the same modest and even pressure and notify you that he is “holding.”[*]Open the bleeder, letting the pedal go to the floor or until it stops, using the same modest level of pressure, then close the bleeder again. Notify your partner “the system is sealed.” He can then slowly release pedal pressure.[/ul][*]Repeat the BLEEDING SEQUENCE (never stroke the pedal more than one time) until all signs of air are purged (no bubbles) from fluid. IMPORTANT [ul][*]NOTE: DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY! Be sure to check the fluid level after every third bleeding sequence or sooner if reservoir volume is very small.[/ul][*]Before moving to the next caliper, take a small block of wood or a plastic hammer and carefully tap the caliper to dislodge any additional air bubbles that may be trapped. Then bleed one last time.[*]Move to the next caliper and repeat the procedures previously outlined. Continue until all calipers have been bled. Before re-installing wheels and placing the car on the ground, we recommend you carefully wipe clean all caliper surfaces, hose joints and fittings, making sure they are all dry and free from seepage. If not, inspect and tighten appropriately. Spray all rotor surfaces with Brake Kleen® or a similar product to remove all dirt and oils from your hands that may have been transferred to the rotor during assembly. Also remember to remove the nut that has been holding rotor in place before attempting to re-install the wheel.[/ol] For street use, as with any time you open the brake system, it may be advisable to repeat the bleeding procedure after driving the vehicle for a day, as driving the car may dislodge some additional air bubbles. For competition cars, we recommend repeating this procedure directly after at least the first two sessions the car is on track and at the beginning of each race weekend thereafter. Even if your pedal is high and firm and additional bleeding is deemed unnecessary, always inspect the calipers, hoses and fittings after the first outing for signs of any fluid seepage and correct immediately.