Dropdagloves20

Hey so I just blew a head gasket and have my motor completely out and taken apart. I decided so I can preven further problems, gain some horses and durability, I would just overhaul the motor since it's already taken apart. I was just wondering if you guys could help me think of anything else I should replace or would be worth doing for durablility and extra power. My plans are to supercharge it or just throw a 150 shot on.
So far I have replaced and had done:

KB Forged Flat Top Pistons
Scat Forged Crank
Scat Forged Connecting Rods
1.6 Roller Rockers
Moly Piston Rings
Forged Push Rods
Port and Polish Heads and Intake
New Granatelli Wires
NGK Iridium Plugs
New Thermostat
New Gaskets
Block Bored .30 over
Block Honed

What else needs replacing that's worth while and could break causing severe damage. I'm going for a built engine that can handle Nitrous and I was just wondering if there's any other parts that I should for sure beef up. Also, I have a Crane Cams Fireball Ignition and my motors gonna be a 10:1 compression motor. Will the ignition system hold up? Thanks!

92GreyGT

I would get a good oil pump driveshaft and a main girdle. If you are going to use a stock Mustang oilpan don't get a high volume oil pump, just use a standard replacement Melling. The Crane box is a good one.

greenstreak9205

just a few things that i thought needed to be changed. if ur lookin to cut down on cost a bit, you could prolly get by with a cast crank since it'll prolly hold more than our crappy block can hold anyway.

92GreyGT

I'm an Autolite plug fan myself. My engine builder told me the same thing, a good nodular crank will out last a stock late model 302 block. Good call.

Hamutoff

x2 on the crank.... the failure mode on these blocks at about 500 crank hp is to split down the middle, hence the recommendations for the main girdle.. the stock crank is pretty ok if prepped, you could get it peened and polished...
x2 on the oil pump driveshaft

I would say #1 get arp studs for the heads since you want to supercharge (might sc?)
#2 get arp studs for the mains, you could also get aftermarket caps, but make sure that the machinest checks the specs for the main caps if you need a hone... or bore+hone you probably will if upgrading from the stock bolts (which you def. should do)

Its a bummer to bore the main caps because it reduces the distance from the cam to the crank but it will only be 0.001 most likely, which brings me to my final recomendation: get a high quality true double roller timing set.

Cheers!

Dropdagloves20

Hey, so here is the complete list after the overhaul that I'm hoping to get back together this week. Please give me your opinions on if you think I made the right choices, or if there's something I left out, or any questions that I can answer to help me build this car to a decently fast more so reliable Stang. Any other things I can get to beef it up or any other tips after it's built would be much appreciated. Where would I find a new oil pump cause I can't find them anywhere and it says the Crane ignition is only or a 9 to 1 motor and I'm told when this motor is done it'll be a 10 to 1. Any advice and all advice will be appreciated!!!! Thank you!

Stock Block bored .30 over to a 306
Scat Forged Crank
Keith Black Forged Flat Top Pistons
EPW 1.6 Roller Rockers
EPW Forged Push Rods
Race Pro Forged Connecting Rods
GT-40 Aluminum Heads Ported and Polished
Ford Racing Polished Valve Covers
Edelbrock Performer 5.0 Intake Ported and Polished
70mm Throttle Body
70mm EGR
Mac Cold Air Induction
BBK Equal Length Shorty Headers
Mac Off-road H-Pipe
Flowmaster Mufflers
Black Magic 5.0 Electric Fan
Battery Relocated to rear
Moroso Battery Relocation Box
Mallory Fuel Pressure Regulator
Crane Cams Fireball HI-6 Ignition System
Chrome Radiator Brackets
MSD Billet Distributor
Power Master One Wire Alternator
Moroso Overflow Tank
Milodon 160 degree Thermostat
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
Ford Racing Wires
A/C Delete Kit

Mustangkiler

ya your not going to be supercharging with 10 to 1 compression i can tell you that unless you want to run racing fuel. You definitly dont need iridium plugs, my car is supercharged and kenne bell and the tuners both just recommended an ngk or denso u or v groove copper plug. And if you use a 160 degree thermostat make sure you tune it to get to closed loop at 160 or you will always be running on generic rich fuel tables, otherwise use a 180 stat.

Dropdagloves20

Ok, but the Iridiums will work right, cause I got them for free. And as far as the stat, you'd recommend just pitching the 160 and go with the 180 degree? and I was told it should be around 10 to 1, but I'm not sure. Sorry, I'm new to the engine building, but how would I find out what compression I have and how would I knock it down so I can boost it? Sorry if it sounds stupid, but I'd rather sound stupid than look stupid when my cars not running right. So everything sounded good except for the compression, plugs and thermostat? and with my setup what should I be gapping my plugs at and what about my igntion box and coil? Thanks for everything!

my77stang

if your going to supercharge you want to start with compression around 8.5ish


and spend the 20 bucks on a ARP oil pump driveshaft, its the best 20 bucks you can spend on your entire build

Dropdagloves20

how can I get it down to that? I don't know if it's 10:1, that's the estimate. And anyone else have any answers to any of my other questions? I'm desperate and I might turbo it also with a hellion at around 8-10 psi. Please help me, I love my car and it's my life and I want to do this right.