2 piece rear main seal replacement ?
12-03-2007, 03:12 PM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 67
2 piece rear main seal replacement ?
My friend has 88 Mustang GT with 351W motor with leaking rear main seal it’s a 2 piece seal. Is it possible to change the 2 piece rear main seal without pulling the motor and the trans.? We are going to try and change it this coming weekend and if anybody done this before and have any tips I would appreciate it.
12-03-2007, 03:21 PM
#2
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
RE: 2 piece rear main seal replacement ?
well you problem will be getting the oil pan off....you have to remove oil pan so whichever methood you choose to remove the pan ..that's your choice but once it's off ....remove the rear bearing cap and you can push the upper half around very carefully...I've used a pocket screwdriver and or small punch before and once I can grab the other side with a pair of pliers ...I pull it out and reinstall in reverse order lube it up so you can slide it / lightly tap it in easier
12-03-2007, 03:48 PM
#4
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
RE: 2 piece rear main seal replacement ?
ha ha!!! I removed the engine... but then again my main bearings were toast!!.....but I also have a tubular k-member and If I were to have done it .....lowering the k-member was my choice to inspect oil pump....with the engine supported by a craddle above. I had a 306 so my engine was 1 piece but any work like you have with a 351....lowering k-member a little to get the oil pan out is the best bet......I also have a 7 qt moroso pan so my options are limited.......to remove engine for oil pan work or k-member removal[:@]
I had a 306 so my engine was 1 piece but any work like you have with a 351....lowering k-member a little to get the oil pan out is the best bet......I also have a 7 qt moroso pan so my options are limited.......to remove engine for oil pan work or k-member removal[:@]
12-03-2007, 04:05 PM
#5
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 67
RE: 2 piece rear main seal replacement ?
I belive he has a tubular K-member and just a stock style 351 oil pan.I never changed a 2 piece seal but I am already starting to hate it. Thanks for your help
12-03-2007, 04:25 PM
#7
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Kentucky
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RE: 2 piece rear main seal replacement ?
that's if you have a 1 piece rear main seal his 351W has 2 piece rear main seal. My 351W has 1 piece rear main seal and I did mine by dropping the trans. pulling the old one out and intalling the new one that was easy his is different.
12-03-2007, 04:29 PM
#8
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 1,460
RE: 2 piece rear main seal replacement ?
This toolmay help you re-install the rope seal..
Oil-Seal Remover and Installer
492
Tool removes and installs upper rear main oil seals with engine and crankshaft in place. It works on both wick- and neoprene-type seals. Chinese Finger-type grip won't slip from the seal during installation. Set includes a wick seal remover, installer, guide funnels, pusher, offset trimmer and neoprene seal punches.[align=right]$25.25
[/align]
Oil-Seal Remover and Installer
492
Tool removes and installs upper rear main oil seals with engine and crankshaft in place. It works on both wick- and neoprene-type seals. Chinese Finger-type grip won't slip from the seal during installation. Set includes a wick seal remover, installer, guide funnels, pusher, offset trimmer and neoprene seal punches.[align=right]$25.25
[/align]
12-03-2007, 11:41 PM
#9
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: North Fulton, GA
Posts: 2,287
RE: 2 piece rear main seal replacement ?
From Mustang Steve's website:
http://www.mustangsteve.com/msFAQengine.html
http://www.mustangsteve.com/msFAQengine.html
Replacing the Rear Main Seal
If your car had the rope type seal, replace it with the newer neoprene seal. Note that if the car had a rope type seal in it before, it will have a small pin (like a nail) sticking into the seal cavity in the main cap. It must be driven or ground out before the new seal can be installed. Seals really aren't that hard to install, especially on a 289 Mustang. Unbolt the idler arm and push steering linkage away. Remove the starter. Drain and unbolt pan and remove it. Loosen all the main cap bolts a couple of turns. Remove rear cap. The old seal will usually slide around so you can grab it and pull it out if you rotate the crank by hand in the direction you pull the seal. If it won't come, there are inexpensive tools that thread into the old seal to pull it out. BE CAREFUL NOT TO NICK THE CRANK. Install the new seal by carefully pushing it in place while rotating the crank in the same direction as the push. Lube the seal with oil and go easy as the sharp edges of the block will try to shave off pieces of the seal. Leave one end sticking out of the block 3/8" and match the one in the cap to it. Lube the lower seal and install the cap with a small bit of RTV near the rear of the parting surface of the cap. Torque all the mains and reinstall the pan. Don't use a gasket, just RTV Ultra Black, thick where the end seals went and thin on the flange. Everything must be cleaned with lacquer thinner first to get a good bond. Torque the pan tight to the block while the RTV is wet and it will never leak again.
If your car had the rope type seal, replace it with the newer neoprene seal. Note that if the car had a rope type seal in it before, it will have a small pin (like a nail) sticking into the seal cavity in the main cap. It must be driven or ground out before the new seal can be installed. Seals really aren't that hard to install, especially on a 289 Mustang. Unbolt the idler arm and push steering linkage away. Remove the starter. Drain and unbolt pan and remove it. Loosen all the main cap bolts a couple of turns. Remove rear cap. The old seal will usually slide around so you can grab it and pull it out if you rotate the crank by hand in the direction you pull the seal. If it won't come, there are inexpensive tools that thread into the old seal to pull it out. BE CAREFUL NOT TO NICK THE CRANK. Install the new seal by carefully pushing it in place while rotating the crank in the same direction as the push. Lube the seal with oil and go easy as the sharp edges of the block will try to shave off pieces of the seal. Leave one end sticking out of the block 3/8" and match the one in the cap to it. Lube the lower seal and install the cap with a small bit of RTV near the rear of the parting surface of the cap. Torque all the mains and reinstall the pan. Don't use a gasket, just RTV Ultra Black, thick where the end seals went and thin on the flange. Everything must be cleaned with lacquer thinner first to get a good bond. Torque the pan tight to the block while the RTV is wet and it will never leak again.
12-04-2007, 09:01 AM
#10
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
RE: 2 piece rear main seal replacement ?
ORIGINAL: 90lxrider
cant you just pull the tranny and pull the old one out and put the new one in....y do you have to drop the pan?
cant you just pull the tranny and pull the old one out and put the new one in....y do you have to drop the pan?
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