bamaroxz

Wow, thanks for all the advise. Confirms I should go back to my Valvoline next change, may just go ahead and change it this weekend. Like watching money pour down the drain so to speak, but ya, I think a regular (Valvoline Racing or Castrol) will be better until I can tear it apart. To Texas5.0, I live in Tomball but drive to Clear Lake NASA JSC every day until I get transfered to another job (construction superintendant), but it could be awhile. Either way it goes, I generally do some traveling, Houston's a big area to travel. Again, thanks for all the posts

mjr46

[&:]...if you have to make your oil mixture as thick as glue to pull oil pressure and get the car to run right...you have other issues like excessive bearing tolerances due to wear and or other internal problems...your car was designed to run on 10w 30 and later through a tsb the reccommended oil was switched to 5w 30 to improve cold weather performance and fuel economy.....so if you have to use thicker for retained drivibility..you got other probs

bamaroxz

Got a good idea my valve seals are bad, whitish smoke out the pipes. My pressure is good, start up around 50- 60psi, 2200 RPM round 40, idle and operating temp 32 PSI. Just slingin lotsa oil lately with the Royal Purple 5W-30. I added the LUCAS, and helped a bit.

camaroeater

I've been using Motorcraft syn. blend 10w30. I usually burn/leak about 1 qt per month. I am changing my oil tommorow, I was going with syn. but I'm not now. I would go syn. on arebuilt engine or new car though.

50Stocker

Great... reading this has me worried now. I have 70k on the clock and was going to switch to Mobil One synthetic. Just put a rear main in, so hopefully no flow there...Should I bother to switch???

rmodel65

i run 10-40 year round im in south ga no real colds days. and i dont drive it in the cold thank to my leaking again heater core the new one lasted on winter part of the summer and now pours[:@]

Lordy

Amen to staying away from Lucas in particular. Go to bobistheoilguy.com and you can read up on why. Seems all it does is NOT mix with oil and creates foam, which is mostly air. Where there is air there is no oil. No oil cant lubricate so wear occurs.
Old engines begin to wear out at every rotating or moving part. Wear means more space between parts. Also as gaskets age they begin to deteriorate, and leaks begin. Synthetic oil is more slippery than dino oil so it leaks out more. I use M1 5-30 in all my 5 vehicles, including two over 125K miles; one a 94 v6 that is my daily driver of 60 miles and I hammer it routinely, the other a 96 Blazer with 158K miles that purrs. Whatever you choose, just realize that it'll leak so just keep up with it til the rebuild. No additive will be good for long.
One additive I can recommend, altho pricey, is AutoRx. A long term cleaner of any part that oil comes in contact with. Auto-rx.com I think. It takes a while and some cash but it actually restored lost power to my DD I think because it cleaned the stuck rings which increased compression. It also cleaned the hydraulic lash adjusters on that car (lifters) which were clogged and decompressed, creating space and therefore allowed noise. Check it out.