TO ALL WHO HAVE DRIVEABILITY PROBLEMS ENTER HERE
10-13-2007, 05:47 PM
#81
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location:
Posts: 91
RE: TO ALL WHO HAVE DRIVEABILITY PROBLEMS ENTER HERE
93 lx 5.0 gt40 intake, 351 alum heads, tuned mass, bbk headers, lunati cam.
Got a prob need help not too much of a mechanic on mustangs, traded my bro-in-law my 97 civic for this. It ran until about a year ago when he decided to put the twin turbos on it. The turbos were bad so he put it back factory, he meesed something up, and had a mechanic look at it the first mech didnt fix the problem so he got a second guy to look at it fixed it got it running but not right. So he let it sit for 6 months. Since I got it I had to switch out fuel pumps, fuel filter, and spark plugs to get it running. When I take it for a spin it just dont run right like 3,4,5 it had no power, so today took plugs out all were sutty except for 2 and 4 2 had some gas/oil but not sutty and 4 looked clean as it did when i put it in. But I checked them and they are getting fire, checked the fuel injectors and they are working. The only diff. is on #4 inj the 3 digit number in corner is different than all the rest. Can I change the hats on them or do I need to buy new inj cause some are cracked. But anyways anyone know what my problem could be
Got a prob need help not too much of a mechanic on mustangs, traded my bro-in-law my 97 civic for this. It ran until about a year ago when he decided to put the twin turbos on it. The turbos were bad so he put it back factory, he meesed something up, and had a mechanic look at it the first mech didnt fix the problem so he got a second guy to look at it fixed it got it running but not right. So he let it sit for 6 months. Since I got it I had to switch out fuel pumps, fuel filter, and spark plugs to get it running. When I take it for a spin it just dont run right like 3,4,5 it had no power, so today took plugs out all were sutty except for 2 and 4 2 had some gas/oil but not sutty and 4 looked clean as it did when i put it in. But I checked them and they are getting fire, checked the fuel injectors and they are working. The only diff. is on #4 inj the 3 digit number in corner is different than all the rest. Can I change the hats on them or do I need to buy new inj cause some are cracked. But anyways anyone know what my problem could be
10-13-2007, 06:55 PM
#82
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location:
Posts: 905
RE: TO ALL WHO HAVE DRIVEABILITY PROBLEMS ENTER HERE
Well my car when i first bought it would not rev over 2k with out loud popping noises
got a new fuel pump most of the issue solved but i still often got hesititation and popping noises when i was easy on the throttle, when it happeend id give teh car some juice and it'd pop really loud and take off...
i tried an after market FPR thinking the stocker was no good, problem not solved
so im thinking maybe the spark plugs, pulled em, and they had some grime on them so i cleaned them off and havn't had the problem since...
now i have a whistling noise under heavy acceleration, sounds like metal grinding on metal but i can't figure this one out, i am lost with it... especiall second gear pulls where im in the gear for a while oooommmgggg **** is so annoying...only happens after a certain rpm like 2.5kish
got a new fuel pump most of the issue solved but i still often got hesititation and popping noises when i was easy on the throttle, when it happeend id give teh car some juice and it'd pop really loud and take off...
i tried an after market FPR thinking the stocker was no good, problem not solved
so im thinking maybe the spark plugs, pulled em, and they had some grime on them so i cleaned them off and havn't had the problem since...
now i have a whistling noise under heavy acceleration, sounds like metal grinding on metal but i can't figure this one out, i am lost with it... especiall second gear pulls where im in the gear for a while oooommmgggg **** is so annoying...only happens after a certain rpm like 2.5kish
10-13-2007, 08:25 PM
#83
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio USA
Posts: 4,616
RE: TO ALL WHO HAVE DRIVEABILITY PROBLEMS ENTER HERE
Hunting Idle
Hesistation
Power Loss
Rpm Issues
etc
Ive found that modifications can cause this, some are :
Bigger MAF, Injectors not needed.
Offroad exhaust(too little backpressure).
Camshaft replacement( cam not degreed, or the ramp rates are slightly agressive).
Intake manifold not properly torqued in steps and sequence pattern variability.-Follow the torque procedure to the teeth.
Cold Air Intake(pisses MAF Sensor Off).
A Few Mechanical Issues found:
Idle Air Motor Solenoid faulty- replacement needed.
Maf Dirty-Clean
Upper Intake Manifold Drain Bolt has lost its teflon coating on threads. Re-Seal
Egr Valve Gasket Cracked-Replace Gasket
Egr Valve Not Closing All The way, due to old age or gum up- Replace If you Cant Clean.
Egr Vacumn Selonoid Leaking Vacumn, remove the black top and cover it with your hand to Check.
If its mising, the line that goes to it has vacum, you cant hear, bu its there, plug it.
Threaded Pipe Fittings on Manifolds Lost Their Teflon Coating on threads Causing Leaks- Re-Seal.
Intake Lower and Upper Bolts have lost their torque values on the bolts and loosened up- RTV and Torque In sequence and steps.
Purge Solenoid /SYSTEM DEFECTIVE-Replace.
Gas Tank Vent -Turned Orange from white, pull it out the top of gas tank to verify this and replace.
Gas Tank not venting, causing fuel volume flow issues(pressure will remain the same), check Vent Valve on Top of tank and or pinched lines.
Smashed gas lines from jacks and lifts, -repair.
Gas Tank installed improperly, kinking the lines above pump.
Fuel Tank Baffle Broken Inside Gas Tank-Repalce Gas Tank.
Pcv Valve/Screen, allowing excessive oil into the intake manifold-Replace and Mod.
Distributor Worn-Replace, look for whiteish build on the inside gound bar as well.
Electrical Issues Found:
Run a wire to the Negative battery Terminal on the Battery, No Corrosion etc/ for ground resistance checking.
Check Every Ground this car has for resistance.
Then do the same for 12+v wires making sure they are supposed to be getting power before you check.
Stock ground to engine block is very poor and too elongated to be considered effective.
Remove the entire wire, run new ground to AC Bracket Top Bolt, and another to the strut tower area.
Recheck Your ground resistance values, they should be better, if not replace or repair the ground wires.
Connector Wiring Pins HAVE LOST TENSION, REPAIR.
You will start to find that this car has alot of unforseen electrical gremlins.
Exhaust System Welding: technician failed to remove the negative terminal on your battery and fed your ecm and electrical components alot of noise. Refer him to an Automotive Training School.
AODE transmisson failures have occurred from this as well.[:'(], within 12 months.
ECM Performs as if its an old worn down motherboard.Send it out for Test/Upgrade and Repair, request a list of defects found.
These are a few issues, ive encountered personally.
Hesistation
Power Loss
Rpm Issues
etc
Ive found that modifications can cause this, some are :
Bigger MAF, Injectors not needed.
Offroad exhaust(too little backpressure).
Camshaft replacement( cam not degreed, or the ramp rates are slightly agressive).
Intake manifold not properly torqued in steps and sequence pattern variability.-Follow the torque procedure to the teeth.
Cold Air Intake(pisses MAF Sensor Off).
A Few Mechanical Issues found:
Idle Air Motor Solenoid faulty- replacement needed.
Maf Dirty-Clean
Upper Intake Manifold Drain Bolt has lost its teflon coating on threads. Re-Seal
Egr Valve Gasket Cracked-Replace Gasket
Egr Valve Not Closing All The way, due to old age or gum up- Replace If you Cant Clean.
Egr Vacumn Selonoid Leaking Vacumn, remove the black top and cover it with your hand to Check.
If its mising, the line that goes to it has vacum, you cant hear, bu its there, plug it.
Threaded Pipe Fittings on Manifolds Lost Their Teflon Coating on threads Causing Leaks- Re-Seal.
Intake Lower and Upper Bolts have lost their torque values on the bolts and loosened up- RTV and Torque In sequence and steps.
Purge Solenoid /SYSTEM DEFECTIVE-Replace.
Gas Tank Vent -Turned Orange from white, pull it out the top of gas tank to verify this and replace.
Gas Tank not venting, causing fuel volume flow issues(pressure will remain the same), check Vent Valve on Top of tank and or pinched lines.
Smashed gas lines from jacks and lifts, -repair.
Gas Tank installed improperly, kinking the lines above pump.
Fuel Tank Baffle Broken Inside Gas Tank-Repalce Gas Tank.
Pcv Valve/Screen, allowing excessive oil into the intake manifold-Replace and Mod.
Distributor Worn-Replace, look for whiteish build on the inside gound bar as well.
Electrical Issues Found:
Run a wire to the Negative battery Terminal on the Battery, No Corrosion etc/ for ground resistance checking.
Check Every Ground this car has for resistance.
Then do the same for 12+v wires making sure they are supposed to be getting power before you check.
Stock ground to engine block is very poor and too elongated to be considered effective.
Remove the entire wire, run new ground to AC Bracket Top Bolt, and another to the strut tower area.
Recheck Your ground resistance values, they should be better, if not replace or repair the ground wires.
Connector Wiring Pins HAVE LOST TENSION, REPAIR.
You will start to find that this car has alot of unforseen electrical gremlins.
Exhaust System Welding: technician failed to remove the negative terminal on your battery and fed your ecm and electrical components alot of noise. Refer him to an Automotive Training School.
AODE transmisson failures have occurred from this as well.[:'(], within 12 months.
ECM Performs as if its an old worn down motherboard.Send it out for Test/Upgrade and Repair, request a list of defects found.
These are a few issues, ive encountered personally.
10-21-2007, 07:50 AM
#84
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location:
Posts: 91
RE: TO ALL WHO HAVE DRIVEABILITY PROBLEMS ENTER HERE
well finally tore it down yesterday and figured it out. Bent intake valve on cyl. #2, and bent exhaust valve on #4. The only thing I didn't understand is that cyl #4 valves and combustion chambers looked like they had been washed compared to the rest of the cyls. I don't think a bent exhaust valve would cause this any ideas.
By the way thanks for all the help I really appreciate it.
By the way thanks for all the help I really appreciate it.
10-21-2007, 08:13 AM
#85
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ft. Lauderdale FL
Posts: 337
RE: TO ALL WHO HAVE DRIVEABILITY PROBLEMS ENTER HERE
Heres a dumb one, when driving i usually here loud poping noises from the passanger side front wheel area when i go over bumps or turn at slow speeds, i jacked to car up to look underneath and with no wieght on the front end i can move the pass side wheel left and right a little bit but not the drivers side without a lot of effort. So i def think something is wrong under there. Steering rack??? Any suggestions would help.
10-21-2007, 02:24 PM
#86
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location:
Posts: 361
RE: TO ALL WHO HAVE DRIVEABILITY PROBLEMS ENTER HERE
What does Ect Stand for and also Act?
i am having a hell of a time with my car right now and i have a Pro-M mass air meter that i think is messin stuff up. im gonna swap back to my stock mass air and see if that helps...
i am having a hell of a time with my car right now and i have a Pro-M mass air meter that i think is messin stuff up. im gonna swap back to my stock mass air and see if that helps...
ORIGINAL: birdman076
I had all kinds of problems about a month after I got my stang. I was running rich, missing, part throttle hesitation, surging, and no power. I tried everything, I replaced the O2's, MAF, IAC, ECT, ACT, TPS, vacuum hoses, fuel pump, regulator, fuel filter, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, pick-up coil, coil, and checked for vacuum leaks. Heres how it all worked out:
O2's = helped with the running rich
MAF = shop told me it was bad and they couldn't scope the car but charged me the $80 for scoping anyways (didn't go back to that shop). It helped some with idle and driveability. I changed back to stock from the C&Hell POS.
IAC = was bad as well, shop told me that also, that helped with idle issues, car didn't surge so much anymore.
TPS = I did for grins, there was no change at all with this but now I have piece of mind there is a new one on the car.
ECT = Took care of the miss, hesitation, and poor running condition under load as well as idle.
ACT = Took care of hanging idle, my car would rev and stay at about 1200 for 5 seconds, then 1000 for 5 seconds then finally 800.
vacuum hoses = no change but they are silicone now so I won't have to worry bout them for a while
Fuel pump = again no change but it replaced the original pump
Fuel filter = No change but it was long overdue
Pick-up coil = No change, piece of mind
plugs, wires, cap, rotor = Idled better, pulled stronger, and better gas mileage.
Coil = No change I just tried another stocker I had laying around
I had no vacuum leaks either, I do however have low vacuum at idle but I have been told this is due to the X cam.
As of now the car is very driveable with the only problems still being running rich at idle ( not nearly as bad as it was) and when I start the car for the second time it sort of surges for a second or two then idles normal.
I feel that I need a PMS of some sort, and if your going to do it right that should be one of the earlier mods. The stock ECM is programmed for a 302ci motor with 225hp, and 300ft/lbs of torque, and bases all of the tables for fuel, timing, load, and driveability on this platform. It can learn to some extent but really I think it becomes a problem with any sort of H/C/I swap. But thats just my thoughts lol. Hope this helps someone.
I had all kinds of problems about a month after I got my stang. I was running rich, missing, part throttle hesitation, surging, and no power. I tried everything, I replaced the O2's, MAF, IAC, ECT, ACT, TPS, vacuum hoses, fuel pump, regulator, fuel filter, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, pick-up coil, coil, and checked for vacuum leaks. Heres how it all worked out:
O2's = helped with the running rich
MAF = shop told me it was bad and they couldn't scope the car but charged me the $80 for scoping anyways (didn't go back to that shop). It helped some with idle and driveability. I changed back to stock from the C&Hell POS.
IAC = was bad as well, shop told me that also, that helped with idle issues, car didn't surge so much anymore.
TPS = I did for grins, there was no change at all with this but now I have piece of mind there is a new one on the car.
ECT = Took care of the miss, hesitation, and poor running condition under load as well as idle.
ACT = Took care of hanging idle, my car would rev and stay at about 1200 for 5 seconds, then 1000 for 5 seconds then finally 800.
vacuum hoses = no change but they are silicone now so I won't have to worry bout them for a while
Fuel pump = again no change but it replaced the original pump
Fuel filter = No change but it was long overdue
Pick-up coil = No change, piece of mind
plugs, wires, cap, rotor = Idled better, pulled stronger, and better gas mileage.
Coil = No change I just tried another stocker I had laying around
I had no vacuum leaks either, I do however have low vacuum at idle but I have been told this is due to the X cam.
As of now the car is very driveable with the only problems still being running rich at idle ( not nearly as bad as it was) and when I start the car for the second time it sort of surges for a second or two then idles normal.
I feel that I need a PMS of some sort, and if your going to do it right that should be one of the earlier mods. The stock ECM is programmed for a 302ci motor with 225hp, and 300ft/lbs of torque, and bases all of the tables for fuel, timing, load, and driveability on this platform. It can learn to some extent but really I think it becomes a problem with any sort of H/C/I swap. But thats just my thoughts lol. Hope this helps someone.
10-21-2007, 03:21 PM
#88
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location:
Posts: 361
RE: TO ALL WHO HAVE DRIVEABILITY PROBLEMS ENTER HERE
JK i figured it out its engine coolant temperature and air charge temp... gonna replace them and see what happens
ORIGINAL: fordracing1122
What does Ect Stand for and also Act?
i am having a hell of a time with my car right now and i have a Pro-M mass air meter that i think is messin stuff up. im gonna swap back to my stock mass air and see if that helps...
What does Ect Stand for and also Act?
i am having a hell of a time with my car right now and i have a Pro-M mass air meter that i think is messin stuff up. im gonna swap back to my stock mass air and see if that helps...
ORIGINAL: birdman076
I had all kinds of problems about a month after I got my stang. I was running rich, missing, part throttle hesitation, surging, and no power. I tried everything, I replaced the O2's, MAF, IAC, ECT, ACT, TPS, vacuum hoses, fuel pump, regulator, fuel filter, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, pick-up coil, coil, and checked for vacuum leaks. Heres how it all worked out:
O2's = helped with the running rich
MAF = shop told me it was bad and they couldn't scope the car but charged me the $80 for scoping anyways (didn't go back to that shop). It helped some with idle and driveability. I changed back to stock from the C&Hell POS.
IAC = was bad as well, shop told me that also, that helped with idle issues, car didn't surge so much anymore.
TPS = I did for grins, there was no change at all with this but now I have piece of mind there is a new one on the car.
ECT = Took care of the miss, hesitation, and poor running condition under load as well as idle.
ACT = Took care of hanging idle, my car would rev and stay at about 1200 for 5 seconds, then 1000 for 5 seconds then finally 800.
vacuum hoses = no change but they are silicone now so I won't have to worry bout them for a while
Fuel pump = again no change but it replaced the original pump
Fuel filter = No change but it was long overdue
Pick-up coil = No change, piece of mind
plugs, wires, cap, rotor = Idled better, pulled stronger, and better gas mileage.
Coil = No change I just tried another stocker I had laying around
I had no vacuum leaks either, I do however have low vacuum at idle but I have been told this is due to the X cam.
As of now the car is very driveable with the only problems still being running rich at idle ( not nearly as bad as it was) and when I start the car for the second time it sort of surges for a second or two then idles normal.
I feel that I need a PMS of some sort, and if your going to do it right that should be one of the earlier mods. The stock ECM is programmed for a 302ci motor with 225hp, and 300ft/lbs of torque, and bases all of the tables for fuel, timing, load, and driveability on this platform. It can learn to some extent but really I think it becomes a problem with any sort of H/C/I swap. But thats just my thoughts lol. Hope this helps someone.
I had all kinds of problems about a month after I got my stang. I was running rich, missing, part throttle hesitation, surging, and no power. I tried everything, I replaced the O2's, MAF, IAC, ECT, ACT, TPS, vacuum hoses, fuel pump, regulator, fuel filter, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, pick-up coil, coil, and checked for vacuum leaks. Heres how it all worked out:
O2's = helped with the running rich
MAF = shop told me it was bad and they couldn't scope the car but charged me the $80 for scoping anyways (didn't go back to that shop). It helped some with idle and driveability. I changed back to stock from the C&Hell POS.
IAC = was bad as well, shop told me that also, that helped with idle issues, car didn't surge so much anymore.
TPS = I did for grins, there was no change at all with this but now I have piece of mind there is a new one on the car.
ECT = Took care of the miss, hesitation, and poor running condition under load as well as idle.
ACT = Took care of hanging idle, my car would rev and stay at about 1200 for 5 seconds, then 1000 for 5 seconds then finally 800.
vacuum hoses = no change but they are silicone now so I won't have to worry bout them for a while
Fuel pump = again no change but it replaced the original pump
Fuel filter = No change but it was long overdue
Pick-up coil = No change, piece of mind
plugs, wires, cap, rotor = Idled better, pulled stronger, and better gas mileage.
Coil = No change I just tried another stocker I had laying around
I had no vacuum leaks either, I do however have low vacuum at idle but I have been told this is due to the X cam.
As of now the car is very driveable with the only problems still being running rich at idle ( not nearly as bad as it was) and when I start the car for the second time it sort of surges for a second or two then idles normal.
I feel that I need a PMS of some sort, and if your going to do it right that should be one of the earlier mods. The stock ECM is programmed for a 302ci motor with 225hp, and 300ft/lbs of torque, and bases all of the tables for fuel, timing, load, and driveability on this platform. It can learn to some extent but really I think it becomes a problem with any sort of H/C/I swap. But thats just my thoughts lol. Hope this helps someone.
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