nacanitihs

ok as some of you may kno i just bought a 97 explorer motor (GT-40p). i still have to tear it down and inspect things/ get machine work.

now i know im going to need to change the cam and valvetrain. werent the explorers flat tappet not hydraulic roller? whats involved in converting to hydraulic roller? also, what is difference between the two? like why is one better than the other.

i would like to get this http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku
but i would rather piece my own together instead of going w/ that. cuz thoes lifters are $245.95 alone and i could get Ford Racing ones for $124.95

the cam that dimebag went with sounds like a good idea. the COMP xe270hr ($259.95)
durration @.050 218/224 Lift 512/512 114* lsa operating range 1800-5800rpm

now i cant seem to find valve springs. i want a single spring so i dont have to get the seats cut like dime did. can someone help me find something that would be adequate for this cam that does not break the bank? does it matter what retainers/locks i go with?

also what push rods should i go with? what length? i would like to use a 1.6 RR but idk if it is worth it to convert to stud over pedistal. i guess if its cheap enough i should. but whats involved there?

ANY help/advise that anoyone can give me will be GREATLY appreciated! i would appreciate any links/brand/model information aswell.

Thank you all very much for reading this long post.

aode08

Now you have 2 302 ROLLER Shortblocks.


The heads are GT40P

Order the springs from your local machine shop, tell em you dont want the seats cut to be able to use them.

Also tell them to Prep the heads for 7/16 studs(roller rockers).

Then you need some headers.

Lifters? Use the same ones you got dude.

Camshaft( looks good) lifters =roller not flat

telsonman

Well, to my knowledge, most fords in the 90s were roller motors. So you don't have to worry about much there. As far as switching out valves, i would switch out the exhaust valves because i think on the gt40p's they were downsized to 1.45. A bigger exhaust valve should give that scavaging effect.

With lifters, any rollor lifters will work. Your motor is a roller motor, so you need roller lifters. The FRPP ones are pretty cheap($120 i think) and the summit roller lifters are pretty cheap too. I don't see why they wouldnt work, i have FRPP ones because i got a good deal on them.

When it comes to piecing it together, i'd say thats the right way to do it. Sure that kit has everything, but you can get some of it cheaper. The cam and springs are good. I'm running crower springs myself. You want to get good springs, as weak ones will cause valve float because of a big cam. something like this should work http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=skuonly thing is that there aren't any dampers. I don't have any on mine, but i'm running a smaller cam. I think you should be good though. With the gt40p heads you'll want to stay away from dual springs because they may rub on the valve stem seals. retainers and locks are don't matter, as long as they work.

your stock push rods will work, but i would upgrade them with that cam. as far as rockers, its up to you. With those heads i'd go 1.6 because already you won't get the maximum out of that cam because the 40p's don't flow much over .500. stud mounted rockers make things easier in my opinion. Rockers are plentiful, and in order to decide which rockers you want, it depends on how much you're willing to spend. Stamped steel rockers are pretty cheap ($150~) and the aluminum get up there. But the stamped ones are noisy as hell. I can deal with the noise though. All I ever hear when i lift the hood is my rockers moving. I'm running comp magnums on my set up.

what kind of intake are you going to be using???

good choice on cam though. i was going to go that route, then I found an e cam for $100, so i was sold on that. I was going to go with the 112* lobe.

telsonman

I would replace lifters. Granted on roller cam there isn't much wear, but I still think its a good measure.

Yeah, you'll need headers for them. I'd go with the FRPP ones because i think they look badass, and they aren't all chrome looking. The ceramics have a lifetime warranty i think.

and for a timing chain, just go to autozone and get a cloyes or whatever normal double roller. They are like $15, or you can get one with 3 keyholes for like $30

nacanitihs

haha yea i guess i will have 2 roller shortblocks.. i plan on using the explorer gt40 intake. just cuz it came on the engine. that a bought intake to oilpan w/ wiring harness and 120k mi for $300

on the springs what is the advantage of the dampers? or disadvantage of not having them?
that kit looks good tho.

ya the FRPP lifters are $125 and the Summit brand are $100

would i use the stock length pushrod? i will get hardened ones.

and hopefully im going to look into porting the heads myself. i have a steady hand and im really particular about things.

and the headers i have will work w/ the p's i just have to change one of the spark plug wires..
unless.. would my bbk shorties work on a 95 gt? cuz if they will i might just sell them to my friend. he is looking for headers.

my77stang

a) OEM used roller lifters are fine - be a man and rebuild them (costs nothing but a little bit of your time - keep each lifters parts with each lifter / dont mix em up)

b) you want the 30-40 cloyes timing chain, not the 15.00 crap *** chain

c) tacos rule

nacanitihs

what?

telsonman

with those heads stock size pushrods should work i would think.

as far as dampers go, i think they just cut down on the amount of vibrations or something, or take some of the impact and stress off the springs. I think you'd be fine without them

nacanitihs

what is needed to convert to stud mount? is it just the rocker arms, studs and guide plates? as well as the machine work? also what do you guys think about this instead of the machine work http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=CRN-36655-16 ?

what are the advantages of switching to stud mount? whats wrong w/ just staying pedestal?

mjr46

If you plan to use a single spring with the comp cam...you can use the same springs , locks and retainers that the f-cam uses = same specs almost.....and just do a search on summits website for f-cam and click on sugg parts...as for the stud mount ...the conversion is done cause they are stronger...3/8 stud vs 5/16 bolt on ped mount rockers....and to convert e'7 heads to stud mount correctly you have to have the pedastals machined down otherwise the rockers will sit to high and the tip of the roller rocker will be pushed towards the outer tip of the stem= incorrect geometry.....trust me I know..I converted a set to stud mount...but I cheated....I got a expensive extra short push rod 138.00 dollars for the set...but it worked..and the only way you can cheat is have the know how what to check for and how to check for the proper length push rod..via adjustable checker