capri debris

Ok, let's see...

1. New radiator, H/C, water pump, T-stat and gauges.

2. No underdrive pulleys or overflow tank.

3. Stock fan

I recommend...

1. Get an overflow tank. (when the cooant gets hot, it expands out to the tank... when it cools, it is drawn back into the radiator. If you don't have one, the coolant will expand and dump on the ground and then can't be sucked back into the radiator and that means you are always low on coolant.)

2. Take out the 195* T-stat with the holes drilled in it. (holes in the t-stat are not needed in a properly operating cooing system)

3. Put in a new 180* t-stat. (make sure you get it in the right way, it's marked which side points to the radiator)

4. Install a new fan clutch assembly. (read the directions that come with a new W/P... it says the fan clutch should be replaced if the water pump fails, because damage to the clutch sometimes occurs when a pump fails.)

5. If you do all this and itSTILL shows hot on the guage, then you have a bad ground in the wiring to the gauge. (common problem in the Mustang) Smack the dash real hard next time it reads HOT and see if the needle comes back down. That will tip you off if the ground is bad.

mjr46

guys guys guys although he really does need to fix the overflow bottle and as long as the coolant is topped off on initial start up from cold start actuall a little below I reccommend...the coolant over flow bottle missing will not cause the car to overheat......that is not the root problem of the issue just a sub problem...anyway fix it non the less...here is the key question that needs to be asked: WHEN DOES IT OVERHEAT??? just at idle??? or at idle and cruising down the road?? or at idle and once you start to cruise down the road the temp drops???......if your gauge is reading correct and you can verify actual temp with a infared ray gun then after all ideas have been exhausted you may have blown head gaskets but driving down the road i'd still overheat if such were the case...so answer the above questions and i can better serve your needs..you shouldn't have to drill holes in the t-stat so there is another cause.....I have a special gauge tester and by plugging in resistance values and comparing to spec I can in 5 short min determine if the gauge, IVR or sending unit is bad....... there is a test you can perform for blown head gaskets and it's called a block tester kit you need to purchase..napa sells them and comes with a solution and a test tube looking thing...anyway lower radiator level as to not suck coolant up in the tester which will skew results.....as follow instructions on tester and bring car up to temp...perform test and if fluid turns color from blue to yellow= blown gasket...this test picks up hydrocarbons/ tesst for them in the cooling system which if you had a blown gasket i'd pick it up most of the time

rmodel65

you can buy a coolant tester kit from napa or borrow it from autozone for free