Five0hFox

Ok. Here's what is happening. It's still running rich. Not what I'm asking about though.
The brakes weren't working so I checked my vaccume hoses and also ran sea foam through. I found the hose that connects to the vaccume... splitter I guess, was disconected. So I hooked it back up it ran ok but then it died. Now it won't start unless I give it full throttle. The brakes work now . I also noticed there was a vaccume hose that was about 1/4 in size, about 5" long. It wasn't hooked up to anything. What's that for? And does any one have any ideas on what the running problem is?
Thanks

86GreenMachine

Have you checked your engine codes??

Joel5.0

..... does the MAP sensor has its vacuum hose connected?......

mjr46

run a koeo/koer test but if you have run the car for an extended period of time the adaptive strategey may have learned a lean correction factor....if you have no codes and no other vaccum leaks..I'd reset the KAM keep alive memory....by disconnecting the battery and then perform the idle relearn and go drive it for a while

Five0hFox

I looked at what I believed the MAP sensor yesterday and I don't think I saw a hose hooked up. Could that possibly cause it to run rich as well? And the belt was replaced with a shorter one to bypass the smog pump.

The check engine light isn't on, but the thing is it never comes on at anytime so I think it's unhooked. I've been needing to go get it ran but need to borrow my uncles trailer.

Five0hFox

Psst. I'm still learing stuff. Could you explain that in simple terms?

Btw.. If the rpm's drop below 1k I lose all oil pressure according to my guage. I'm guessing all the gas that was in the oil ruined the pump so it needs replaced?

Joel5.0

If you haven't done a MAF conversion and your '88 is not a California Calibration #...... it is a speed density system, a vacuum line goes to the MAP or it'll run rich like hell + cause idle issues, + stall + fuel consumption will go to the roof + etc. To run the self tests, check DIY KOEO/KOER/Cylinder Balance Self-Test

mjr46

#1 if the map sensor is unhooked..hook it back up like joel5.0 states
#2 If you haven't already done so change the oil and don't rely on the factor stock gauge to be accurrate

Five0hFox

Ok. The vacuum line was off the MAP sensor. I hooked it up it now idles slightly rough but no long like it's cammed. I don't have to give it full throttle to start it but after idling for 10 seconds it just dies. Fuel consumption does seem bad from just running it around the block unless the fuel gauge is messed up. It still smokes, just as bad as before according to my dad but to me it didn't smell as rich. It did have better oil pressure than before but i noticed the drop when the engine was warmed up.

I'm going to check out the link you gave me. Does it sound like the map sensor might need replaced with out check for codes? Tomorrow I am going to call and see how much the local shop charges to check codes if they do charge. Thanks for continuing to help me on my project guys.

Five0hFox

I changed the oil yesterday before I warmed it up to sea foam it because it was so diluted with gas. It was actually still black and smelled some like gas after changing it even with out running. But I didn't change the filter cause I planned on chaning the oil again so that's probably why.

As you see from my post I already hooked it back up. I was just working on typing it

And I don't think I can do a self test yet, as my check engine light doesn't seem to be on.. ever.. even with just turning the key on like every vehichle does.