crocop

i have a engine leak and i beleive its the rear main seal. now i was going to sell my stang because of this but now im not going to. my schools shop teacher said that he could change it and it wont cost me anything except for parts. im so happy that i have this oppertunity, im 18 now and ive loved mustangs my whole life, especialy when my dad had a bad *** 89 that was on a bottle.

so i have a bunch of questions that would be great if i could get answered. first off i know theres a bunch of rear main seals on the market, which one should i use, i only want to to this once. also since ill have the tranny off what else should i do to prevent future leaks.

do i only have to remove the tranny, i read alot that i have to take off the oil pan and this possibly lift the engine?

after i get the seals fixed up i was thinking of switching to synthetic oils, will this be a good choice

next once im done with the oils, i really wanted to put some more punch in my stang, first i was thinking of buying a cobra upper and lower intake manifold from summit with a 70mm throttle body. if i buy one i also want a good one so will i be wise to get something more like a trickflow track heat instead.

my 88 is speed density, once i get a performance intake manifold on i was thinking of getting the speacial speed denssity cam shaft, will this give me some more power.


basically what im looking for is to get about 300hp and 350+ tq on the engine, i know to the rear wheels is a bit more tricky. right now i have 250hp 320tq on the motor. what else can i do like maybe slightly bigger injectors or something

Tony71502

There is no need to pull the motor when doing rear main seal.

My one friend has been driving his car for a long time with a leaking rear main seal and causes no driveability, just dirty as hell.

I had no idea my rear main was bad. When I had my clutch installed, the flywheel was pulled so it could be machined. This is when we discovered teh bad seal.

I replaced mine with a felpro seal from an engine gasket kit and it has been working perfectly since. I would suggest doing a clutch while you are in there if yours is worn. Theres pretty much nothing else down there you can do to "leak proof" it.


Just an intake will never get you the numbers you want. For that power you will either need an H/C/I, nitrous, or forced induction.
If you are bumping up the power this much, then I seriously suggest a new clutch while you are in there.

Oil, i run GTX high mileage. Non-synthetic im pretty sure.

94Yellow50

+1 on the felpro seal..i got mine from advance auto for like 14 bucks just the seal..didnt have to buy a whole kit...they might try to sell u a different name...ask them for felpro n theyll tell you that this company bought out felpro so no problem there...just tell them u want the felpro equivilent or whatever...n ya..no need to do anything to the motor if trans is out..just pull the old seal..n tap the new one in

crocop

if i did want to get the intake manifold what kind of power could i make if i have 250hp 320tq engine power now. i was also thinking of changing the clutch is the ford racing king cobra clutch good, i want something tough that i can pop the clutch a few times here and there. and wouldnt a intake manifold and a cam get me close to 300hp