OnyxCobra

I have pedestal mount AFRs also, I didn't shim my rockers, I just purchased the correct length pushrod. Some people say roller rockers are noisy but my car doesn't make any unusual or loud noises while running.

vtecwho

hey onyx,
do you have ANY shims under there?? what size pushrods did you buy? i asked the guy from jegs if there was anything else i needed with the heads and he said "NOPE".... maybe i needed different pushrods lol.

i assumed that no change was needed because afrs are bolt on to a stock motor type mod.

OnyxCobra

Any time you change heads, cam or part of your valvetrain you should check for correct pushrod length (at least that's how I've always heard it). My rockers are bolted down on my AFRs exactly the same way they were on the stock heads, if there are shims I didn't see them or change them. The rocker shims are not part of the heads, as you buy the heads they are ready to go. My setup took stock length pushrods, 6.25".

mjr46

oh no I agree ..completely!!! my 66 was a budget build as I wan't trying to break the bank to build it and all in all I'm not gonna change the rockers....cause it's only really noticable slightly when the hood is popped and occasionally I can hear them cruising down the road...but it's not horrible..just noticable

vtecwho

yea, any change to anything would make me suspect a need for new measurements. i checked a few and seemed to be fine. i was talking to my mechanic and he said that the stock set up does not have shims. so maybe ill pull all mine and measure my rods to see if they are 625s. if so ill leave the heads as stock from with out shims. ill try it soon and update everyone
thanks!!!
eric

67mustang302

For the lifter preload with pedestals, you finger tighten the capscrew to the rocker until you have 0 lash, THEN torque the capscrew down to spec, and it should take from 1/4 to 1 full turn to reach propertorque(or whatever the particular manufacturer says). That'll give you the correct .020"-.060" lifter preload.

And with my AFR's I ended up having to get .050" longer pushrods, but the only thing that was still factory was the block.

OnyxCobra

That's key, that's how it should work if the pushrods are the correct length. Don't worry if the rockers have slack in them when you're done, your hydraulic lifters will take up the slack once you start the engine. This is assuming you checked pushrod length correctly with a SOLID lifter, do NOT use a hydraulic lifter to check pushrod length.

92GreyGT

I have stud mountDSS roller rockers, which are made by Scorpion, and with my Comp Cams Extreme Energy cam it is noisy as hell. It sounds like I have a solid roller instead of hydraulic. The guy at Comp said the way the cams are made they will be noisy. I don't know if he was blowing smoke up my back side or what but it has been noisy like that for four years with not a single problem.

I used stock length pushrods also.

67mustang302

My setup has always been somewhat noisy as well. I know it's not setup wrong either. Oh well, nature of the beast and all that.

91hatchgt

When I adjust pedestal mt. rockers, I always bring each cylinder up to TDC on the compression stroke, then finger tighten the bolt to zero lash, and then count how many revolutions to the bolt I have made. If it is more than 1 revolution, the rocker must be shimmed. There are usually two thicknesses of shims, the thickest shim is supposed to take one full revolution off of the adjustment, and the thinner shim, .5 of a revolution.

Stud mount rockers are so much easier IMO. I don't miss my old pedestals whatsoever.