building 5.0 kit car
03-23-2005, 10:26 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 6
building 5.0 kit car
Hi guys,
Im building a kit car and i just picked up a 93 mustang gt engine. I am planning on using the factory FI system and computer. However i would like to eventually instal a better intake, cam, ignition, and the car will have a custom exhaust. I plan on removing all the componets on the front of the engine, ie ac, ps, air pump. What componets can i remove from the engine and still operate the FI system??? What will i have to keep in mind when building the motor??? Will i need to upgrade my injectors??? I want this to be as simple as possable, and get rid of everything i do not need. Thanks for the help.
Mike
Im building a kit car and i just picked up a 93 mustang gt engine. I am planning on using the factory FI system and computer. However i would like to eventually instal a better intake, cam, ignition, and the car will have a custom exhaust. I plan on removing all the componets on the front of the engine, ie ac, ps, air pump. What componets can i remove from the engine and still operate the FI system??? What will i have to keep in mind when building the motor??? Will i need to upgrade my injectors??? I want this to be as simple as possable, and get rid of everything i do not need. Thanks for the help.
Mike
03-24-2005, 06:58 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 6
RE: building 5.0 kit car
Im all set w/ the harness and computer, that came w/ the motor. I am not going to be running ps, or a/c in the car. I am fitting the engine into a 1985 TVR Tasmin 280i. It sould make for a fast and intresting combination. The car is set up for a hydralic clutch system, i would like to say w/ that type of system. I have found hyd to bearings and hyd slave cyl kits on the web but they are $$$$$$. Do you have any other ideas?? I would like to stay away from trying to convert to a machanical clutch.
thanks
mike
thanks
mike
03-24-2005, 07:48 PM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Philly. PA.
Posts: 381
RE: building 5.0 kit car
ORIGINAL: mktvr
Im all set w/ the harness and computer, that came w/ the motor. I am not going to be running ps, or a/c in the car. I am fitting the engine into a 1985 TVR Tasmin 280i. It sould make for a fast and intresting combination. The car is set up for a hydralic clutch system, i would like to say w/ that type of system. I have found hyd to bearings and hyd slave cyl kits on the web but they are $$$$$$. Do you have any other ideas?? I would like to stay away from trying to convert to a machanical clutch.
thanks
mike
Im all set w/ the harness and computer, that came w/ the motor. I am not going to be running ps, or a/c in the car. I am fitting the engine into a 1985 TVR Tasmin 280i. It sould make for a fast and intresting combination. The car is set up for a hydralic clutch system, i would like to say w/ that type of system. I have found hyd to bearings and hyd slave cyl kits on the web but they are $$$$$$. Do you have any other ideas?? I would like to stay away from trying to convert to a machanical clutch.
thanks
mike
03-25-2005, 12:57 AM
#10
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: United States
Posts: 52
RE: building 5.0 kit car
I have finished what you are just starting to do,
i have a lonestar classics cobra replica. I have the EFI based on 90 mustang gt with a A9L computer. The motor is rebuilt 306 with GT40 heads, TFS roller cam, 1.70 Roller rockers, aftermarket intake and throttle body. with 19 lbs injectors. On the front of the motor I changed the timing cover for one that has a standard rotating water pump, the serpinten belt drives the water pump and alternator. This looks much cleaner than having all the extra pullies for a reverse flow water pump. As far as wiring goes you can use the stock mustang harness and you won't need the repays for A/C unless you are running A/C, also there is a plug near the computer for air bags that you won't need. There is a black negative wire that goes to battery negative and a ground near the computer. Also 3 positive wires one that goes to the battery and on the left fender grey plug there are 2 positive wires that go to the ignition switch (red/blue is for 12v run and other red/green is for 12v crank & run). If you want the computer to control your fuel pump connect the negative from the fuel pump relay to the black plug tan/green wire on the left fender. It's important to use the negative from the fuel pump relay and not the pump negative. you won't need a purge tank or solenoid either. If you aren't going to use an EGR valve get a by pass connector for the plug to trick the computer in it being there. I did not do this and the check engine light came on sensing a hard code error. You should install a check engine light and the green plug near the computer pink wire goes to one side of the light and the other goes to a power source when the car is running. The rest of the wiring is straight forward for all the sensors and relays you need to make this work. I would undo all the tape from the harness and inspect the wiring and fix anything that needs to be fixed and the retape., also buy new wire loom ...it will look so much nicer. Inspect all the plugs and make sure the pins are there and not broke off. All that
i have taked about is from my experience and time trouble shooting my wiring to get the car running. I also got a lot of help from jeff at ford racing in michagan, he is very knowlegeable in ford mustang EFI.
Good luck!
Ed
i have a lonestar classics cobra replica. I have the EFI based on 90 mustang gt with a A9L computer. The motor is rebuilt 306 with GT40 heads, TFS roller cam, 1.70 Roller rockers, aftermarket intake and throttle body. with 19 lbs injectors. On the front of the motor I changed the timing cover for one that has a standard rotating water pump, the serpinten belt drives the water pump and alternator. This looks much cleaner than having all the extra pullies for a reverse flow water pump. As far as wiring goes you can use the stock mustang harness and you won't need the repays for A/C unless you are running A/C, also there is a plug near the computer for air bags that you won't need. There is a black negative wire that goes to battery negative and a ground near the computer. Also 3 positive wires one that goes to the battery and on the left fender grey plug there are 2 positive wires that go to the ignition switch (red/blue is for 12v run and other red/green is for 12v crank & run). If you want the computer to control your fuel pump connect the negative from the fuel pump relay to the black plug tan/green wire on the left fender. It's important to use the negative from the fuel pump relay and not the pump negative. you won't need a purge tank or solenoid either. If you aren't going to use an EGR valve get a by pass connector for the plug to trick the computer in it being there. I did not do this and the check engine light came on sensing a hard code error. You should install a check engine light and the green plug near the computer pink wire goes to one side of the light and the other goes to a power source when the car is running. The rest of the wiring is straight forward for all the sensors and relays you need to make this work. I would undo all the tape from the harness and inspect the wiring and fix anything that needs to be fixed and the retape., also buy new wire loom ...it will look so much nicer. Inspect all the plugs and make sure the pins are there and not broke off. All that
i have taked about is from my experience and time trouble shooting my wiring to get the car running. I also got a lot of help from jeff at ford racing in michagan, he is very knowlegeable in ford mustang EFI.
Good luck!
Ed