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Nitrous help?

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Old 02-13-2008, 02:34 AM
  #11  
92GreyGT
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Default RE: Nitrous help?

If you have a 5 speed I would get the window switch for sure. If you can afford it get the plate that goes between the upper and lower intake, you won't regret it. The zex kit is a nice easy kit to install, but 125 is it.

TTGreenSN95 where in Virginia are you, I'm south of Charlottesville.
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Old 02-13-2008, 05:32 AM
  #12  
whitelightning5.0
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Default RE: Nitrous help?

zex is junk,if your going to spend the money spend it on qaulity peices

NX/NOS/EDELBROCK

for damn near the same money,you can go wet kit WITHOUT limitations.

and to whom posted a purge is for show....aparently you dont spray out of the hole,ever tried spraying out the gate without purging? and having nothing but fuel dumped into the motor? its bad. always purge the line 2 small clicks is all it takes to get rid of the air.
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Old 02-13-2008, 09:45 AM
  #13  
Hung Like a Stang
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Default RE: Nitrous help?

I wasn't meaning it wasn't beneficial, I guess that was just implied, I should have addressed that first. Yes, I always sprayed out of the hole.

so yes, a purge is beneficial to get a good shot out of the hole.
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Old 02-13-2008, 10:14 AM
  #14  
89stanger1989
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Default RE: Nitrous help?

what are good size injectors for a 5.0 spraying 100 dry shot. has full internals too. 42 pound???
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Old 02-13-2008, 11:19 AM
  #15  
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ORIGINAL: 89stanger1989

what are good size injectors for a 5.0 spraying 100 dry shot. has full internals too. 42 pound???
this is the most *** backwards thing i have ever seen.

ill asume full internals mean forged rotating assembly? not just the stock junk forged pistons mustangs came with.

it seems theres some huge misconception that just because a vehicle/motor has forged pistons..they can handle a higher nitrous shot.this simply is NOT true.

you can F up a motor with forged pistons,just like you can with hyper/cast pistons..forged pistons during detonation/backfire under nitrous tend to burn through...whereas hyper/cast pistons tend to break apart...either one is very bad. its all in the tune,thats about it,and not being stupid with nitrous,i have sprayed 275 through a 93 shortblock without any issues,and i have friends who have sprayed 350 hp through several stock long and shortblock 5.0s

and i hope your not serious about asking if you need 42 pound injectors to run a 100 shot. stock injectors will support 100 shot.

do yourself a favor,stay away from the ricer junk{aka zex} and get a quality plate kit,otherwise spending the $$ on nitrous just is NOT worth it.
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Old 02-13-2008, 12:02 PM
  #16  
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Default RE: Nitrous help?

ORIGINAL: whitelightning5.0

this is not 100% true..

while it is correct the needed added fuel comes from bumping the pressure,and the injectors....a backfire is still possible...as well is ALOT of damage.

keep in mind,there WILL be fuel coming from the injectors,one lean backfire...and that energy will go somewhere,wether it be exploding the piston,or traveling back up the intake tract.


personally,id run a well sorted out wet kit{quality fogger nozzle} or a plate kit,dry systems are boring,and highly limited when you want to upgrade,unless you upgrade to a wet shot.

also,if you have never experienced more power on a wet shot,id sugest getting rid of your dry kit,and bolting on a plate kit jetted for 100-150 hp. furthermore,why spend ALL the money needed for nitrous,to run a 75 shot/100 shot? its a waste of money in my eyes...nitrous doesnt get fun until you start spraying over 150 hp...and you spray out of the gate.
i don't even know where to start......

1) comparing twice the hp of what he wants isn't comparing apples to bowling *****

2) show me a wet kit that makes more than 100 hp when jetted for 100, and then show me a dry kit that makes less than 100 when jetted the same.

3) and if i wanted a 150+ i would go direct port, since tb plate systems are a disaster waiting to happen

4) the first 75 hp is where you get the MAX gain from.....the second 75 will NOT get you another full second et reduction.....never gonna happen, so from a perfoprmance standpoint....just squirting 75 the best thing to do

5) dry kits don't go lean....other parts malfunction and cause a lean condition, i have yet to see a dry kit backfire, if your car is up to snuff in the fuel dept, it will never be an issue.

it is ALWAYS driver error when a dry kits breaks something...always

** had to add this one

6) yes i squirt out of the hole all the time every time, thereis no phat condition in a dry kit, when the nitrous flows, the fuel flows, it actually helps getting out becasue it hits a little bit softer w/ no purge.

the entire stock fuel system is fine, but chances are the pump is old and you might as well upgrade since you need good working parts anyway.


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Old 02-13-2008, 12:03 PM
  #17  
TTGreenSN95
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Default RE: Nitrous help?

I get kicked in the head everytime I tell someone to get a zex kit....Im just saying for someone that dont know squat about nitrous its an easy no brainer kit drill a hole connect the box to the noids and the TPS thats it.The kit will spray nitrous and bump up the fuel pressure at the same time.I think soemone was aaking if it was 125 it came with 50-75-100-125 jets..

I didnt think about spraying wet without a purge whitelighting5.0. thanks for clearing that up.I spray dry.

I live right outside richmond we race street nights in dinwiddie but hope to race in richmond some as soon as it gets warmer..

Why Did you wanna race me..????!!!!!muhahahahaha
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Old 02-13-2008, 12:10 PM
  #18  
nitrous_bob
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Default RE: Nitrous help?

theres nothing wrong w/ zex, i won't buy another one, but nothing wrong w/ those kits.

they are easy and cheap, i just like to be able to get to my selonoids and nitrous reg.
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Old 02-13-2008, 12:14 PM
  #19  
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Default RE: Nitrous help?

ORIGINAL: nitrous_bob

ORIGINAL: whitelightning5.0

this is not 100% true..

while it is correct the needed added fuel comes from bumping the pressure,and the injectors....a backfire is still possible...as well is ALOT of damage.

keep in mind,there WILL be fuel coming from the injectors,one lean backfire...and that energy will go somewhere,wether it be exploding the piston,or traveling back up the intake tract.


personally,id run a well sorted out wet kit{quality fogger nozzle} or a plate kit,dry systems are boring,and highly limited when you want to upgrade,unless you upgrade to a wet shot.

also,if you have never experienced more power on a wet shot,id sugest getting rid of your dry kit,and bolting on a plate kit jetted for 100-150 hp. furthermore,why spend ALL the money needed for nitrous,to run a 75 shot/100 shot? its a waste of money in my eyes...nitrous doesnt get fun until you start spraying over 150 hp...and you spray out of the gate.
i don't even know where to start......

1) comparing twice the hp of what he wants isn't comparing apples to bowling *****

2) show me a wet kit that makes more than 100 hp when jetted for 100, and then show me a dry kit that makes less than 100 when jetted the same.

3) and if i wanted a 150+ i would go direct port, since tb plate systems are a disaster waiting to happen

4) the first 75 hp is where you get the MAX gain from.....the second 75 will NOT get you another full second et reduction.....never gonna happen, so from a perfoprmance standpoint....just squirting 75 the best thing to do

5) dry kits don't go lean....other parts malfunction and cause a lean condition, i have yet to see a dry kit backfire, if your car is up to snuff in the fuel dept, it will never be an issue.

it is ALWAYS driver error when a dry kits breaks something...always

in response to 1,im simply saying that for a 75 shot..its not worth it,a grand or more,for 75 hp..dont make sense to me.

in response to 2,i will gladly show you that in april when my car comes out of storage,my NX kit far exceeds the HP they claim.

in response to 3,i never said TB plate systems,i said PLATE system..sandwiched between the manifold halves. ive sprayed 275 through one stage..without nearly a problem,and it took a e7 headed,b303 cammed hatch back into the 10.60s.

in response to 4,i guess you just stick to baby shots then? the faster you go,the more horsepower it takes to get the same et reduction....so in fact your theory is wrong,it depends on how fast the car is to begin with.

explain this for me then...my 88 iroc 305 tpi 5spd car would run 15.50s all day long..consistent as ****,75 shot it went 14.60s..and a 150 shot it went 13.40s....? but its not possible right? granted i will agree that if you have a 13 second car,spraying 75-100,it will usually drop a second...and 150 usually WONT make it drop another full second...but again,that just goes into the fact that,it takes MORE horsepower to drop a certain time off,the faster the car is.

in response to 5, 250% wrong,fuel pump failure,bypass failure,regulator failure,injector failure...will ALL cause lean conditions in a dry shot,so again,how is it always driver error...if a dry kit breaks something?

im not saying that wet kits are perfect...ive ran any and all kits known out there...and ill bet money my kit jetted for 100 hp...will spank the **** out of a zex dry kit thats jetted for 100 hp.
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Old 02-13-2008, 12:16 PM
  #20  
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Default RE: Nitrous help?

ORIGINAL: TTGreenSN95

I get kicked in the head everytime I tell someone to get a zex kit....Im just saying for someone that dont know squat about nitrous its an easy no brainer kit drill a hole connect the box to the noids and the TPS thats it.The kit will spray nitrous and bump up the fuel pressure at the same time.I think soemone was aaking if it was 125 it came with 50-75-100-125 jets..

I didnt think about spraying wet without a purge whitelighting5.0. thanks for clearing that up.I spray dry.

I live right outside richmond we race street nights in dinwiddie but hope to race in richmond some as soon as it gets warmer..

Why Did you wanna race me..????!!!!!muhahahahaha
if your race offer was to me...you can grab a headsup lane with me...anytime you feel froggy.
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