Nitrous help?
#1
Nitrous help?
Im thinking about getting a 75 or 100 shot for my stang and had a few questions. first being is a 75 or 100 shot ok for my setup. next is how safe are the bottles in the trunk say like if it was in the high 90 would i have to take it out. and the last one is would be safe sitting in between two subs, (the subs are in individual boxes on both sides of thetrunk) manily i am wundering if you have to take it out all the time if its going to behot out. ooo also forgot to ask about if i should get a dry kit or a wet kit.
Thanks and sorry about all the questions.
Thanks and sorry about all the questions.
#2
RE: Nitrous help?
well, for the 75 to 100 shot, i would always perfer a wet shot, but if the money doesnt seem to be there, a dry will do, as for the 90 weather, it should be fine. and the subs,, i wouldn't worry about those either, just make sure u mount the bottle correctly witha blow down tube that goes out of the trunk. do it all right and nothing your worried about should be a problem. I'd run 100 shot wet. you'll like that alot
#3
RE: Nitrous help?
you need to double the temp to double the pressure in an enclosed cylinder.
the bottle itself is rated for 3000 psi, which means it can hold almost 5000 psi for short terms
a completely fullhot bottle (80*-90*)should hit 1000-1200
now the issue is the burst disc, they are rated for 1500, so unless you hit 150* and had 1000 psi to start , your fine, and it still might not go to be honest.
theoretically you could bust a disc and lose your nitrous.....but when i fill my bottle, i'm using it sometime soon, so just a lb light it would never happen
w/ that being said.......75-100 is totally safe on a bonestock motor, and i prefer dry for the simplicity. in my experience w/ 3 cars and 3 diff kits , i cannot see any more power to be had w/ a wet kit.
it's a personal pref really , but a dry kit CANNOT blow up an intake, a wet kit can.
nitrous is not flammable, so w/out the presence of fuel...there is no way for it to happen.
but hey to each his own.........i'm a dry guy
the bottle itself is rated for 3000 psi, which means it can hold almost 5000 psi for short terms
a completely fullhot bottle (80*-90*)should hit 1000-1200
now the issue is the burst disc, they are rated for 1500, so unless you hit 150* and had 1000 psi to start , your fine, and it still might not go to be honest.
theoretically you could bust a disc and lose your nitrous.....but when i fill my bottle, i'm using it sometime soon, so just a lb light it would never happen
w/ that being said.......75-100 is totally safe on a bonestock motor, and i prefer dry for the simplicity. in my experience w/ 3 cars and 3 diff kits , i cannot see any more power to be had w/ a wet kit.
it's a personal pref really , but a dry kit CANNOT blow up an intake, a wet kit can.
nitrous is not flammable, so w/out the presence of fuel...there is no way for it to happen.
but hey to each his own.........i'm a dry guy
#7
RE: Nitrous help?
so i would get even more with the 75 shot kit im looking at, another question is should i get a purge kit and a rpm activation switch or because im not doing such a big shot i might not need it?
Thanks
Thanks
#8
RE: Nitrous help?
I'd get a purge kit, they aren't that expensive....plus they look cool ha ha ha.
Window switch is a nice thing to have. The size of the shot doens't necessarily matter for each of those things, just how you prefer to activate it. Not having to worry about it until 3 grand (roughly) and knowing it will shut off before your redline is a very nice plus. I Would at least get the window switch, you can get em off the boards all day for less than 100 bucks.
Window switch is a nice thing to have. The size of the shot doens't necessarily matter for each of those things, just how you prefer to activate it. Not having to worry about it until 3 grand (roughly) and knowing it will shut off before your redline is a very nice plus. I Would at least get the window switch, you can get em off the boards all day for less than 100 bucks.
#9
RE: Nitrous help?
ORIGINAL: nitrous_bob
you need to double the temp to double the pressure in an enclosed cylinder.
the bottle itself is rated for 3000 psi, which means it can hold almost 5000 psi for short terms
a completely fullhot bottle (80*-90*)should hit 1000-1200
now the issue is the burst disc, they are rated for 1500, so unless you hit 150* and had 1000 psi to start , your fine, and it still might not go to be honest.
theoretically you could bust a disc and lose your nitrous.....but when i fill my bottle, i'm using it sometime soon, so just a lb light it would never happen
w/ that being said.......75-100 is totally safe on a bonestock motor, and i prefer dry for the simplicity. in my experience w/ 3 cars and 3 diff kits , i cannot see any more power to be had w/ a wet kit.
it's a personal pref really , but a dry kit CANNOT blow up an intake, a wet kit can.
nitrous is not flammable, so w/out the presence of fuel...there is no way for it to happen.
but hey to each his own.........i'm a dry guy
you need to double the temp to double the pressure in an enclosed cylinder.
the bottle itself is rated for 3000 psi, which means it can hold almost 5000 psi for short terms
a completely fullhot bottle (80*-90*)should hit 1000-1200
now the issue is the burst disc, they are rated for 1500, so unless you hit 150* and had 1000 psi to start , your fine, and it still might not go to be honest.
theoretically you could bust a disc and lose your nitrous.....but when i fill my bottle, i'm using it sometime soon, so just a lb light it would never happen
w/ that being said.......75-100 is totally safe on a bonestock motor, and i prefer dry for the simplicity. in my experience w/ 3 cars and 3 diff kits , i cannot see any more power to be had w/ a wet kit.
it's a personal pref really , but a dry kit CANNOT blow up an intake, a wet kit can.
nitrous is not flammable, so w/out the presence of fuel...there is no way for it to happen.
but hey to each his own.........i'm a dry guy
while it is correct the needed added fuel comes from bumping the pressure,and the injectors....a backfire is still possible...as well is ALOT of damage.
keep in mind,there WILL be fuel coming from the injectors,one lean backfire...and that energy will go somewhere,wether it be exploding the piston,or traveling back up the intake tract.
personally,id run a well sorted out wet kit{quality fogger nozzle} or a plate kit,dry systems are boring,and highly limited when you want to upgrade,unless you upgrade to a wet shot.
also,if you have never experienced more power on a wet shot,id sugest getting rid of your dry kit,and bolting on a plate kit jetted for 100-150 hp. furthermore,why spend ALL the money needed for nitrous,to run a 75 shot/100 shot? its a waste of money in my eyes...nitrous doesnt get fun until you start spraying over 150 hp...and you spray out of the gate.
#10
RE: Nitrous help?
Go zex dry it is super easy to install and its a nice kit they sell them on ebay for $428 to your door. as far as the purge goes its good for show and the crowd loves it but I havent noticed any performance form it.
Im in virginia it cost me 48 bucks to fill the bottle.
If you dont have some kind of sticky tire your car probably wont hook on the 125 shot!
My buddy has a stock lighting truck he runs 15.50 with a 125 shot 13.95. we put the zex dry kit on it
what are your mods?
I have ran 13.97 and witha 125 dyno tune kit and lots of tuning on the ecm 12.26.
Im in virginia it cost me 48 bucks to fill the bottle.
If you dont have some kind of sticky tire your car probably wont hook on the 125 shot!
My buddy has a stock lighting truck he runs 15.50 with a 125 shot 13.95. we put the zex dry kit on it
what are your mods?
I have ran 13.97 and witha 125 dyno tune kit and lots of tuning on the ecm 12.26.