FastFordFreak

Hey
Ive been diggin through the threads here for bout 2 months without posting so I try not to come off as a jackass noob who is here to ask stupid questions that ahve been covered numerous times. I am working on a new engine for my mustang I have a 91 gt and a 95 gt. Both 5 Speed. I am building a new engine on a stand and when its done ill drop it in whichever I decide. some parts may slighty vary as to which I choose but it should be very similar. I have already purchased many items so far all new from summit racing or ebay. Almost all parts are still packaged, Im a little obsessive and I want to get everythnig ready and replace everything possible when I do this. I have been buying parts almsot everyend for a long time. Money is not a big problem, I work alot and get payed every week and do many side jobs. I am very mechanicly inclined. I have been working on my 91 taurus SHO for a long time as nice project. Single turbo kit is almost done. I am a decent welder. I done alot of workon cars but lack some of the more "specialized" aspecs. I do all my own work whenever possible and learn as much as I can from shop manuals and respectible internet sites ( such as this one ). Sorry for such the long post and backround just wanted you all to know were Im comming from. Like I said ive alrady bought alot fo parts but I would like some help and suggestions on things still undecided and things I already have.

Here is a List of all the parts currently in my garage waiting for the project to finally start.

GT-40 "turbo" heads $699 set
BBK fuel pressure regulaters $99 each
BBK Cold Air Intake $129
BBK underdrive pullies(aluminum) $99
Ford Racing 30# injectors $219
Ford Racing aluminum valve covers $
BBK 255lph fuel pump $129
BBK 75mm Throttle Body $199
Powermaster 140amp Alternator $186
Electric Fan Kit $ 200
BBK adj. Clutch quadrant $ 89
Pro 5.0 short shifter $149
Ford Racing King Cobra Clutch $160
Ford racing aluminum Racing radiator $190
BBK HiPerformace offroad H-pipe $159
Ford Racing Headers $220
Summit rear control arms $245
Ford racing aluminum driveshaft $ 190
BBK 3-bolt caster/camber plates $ 160
Reverse Glow halo gauges $30
3.73 gears $ 160
5 inch Tach $ 190
Classic White shift **** $29
Battery relocation kit $69
Solid Moter Mounts $150
Ford Racing 9mm wires $49
New hoses $70


What I still need help on is:
Should I buy a DSS bare lvl 10 block, and a stroker kit and install myself or go with a prebuild shortblock ?

I have looked at many intake manifolds, mainly The trick flow EFI intake manifold strip 1500-6500 rpm or the "Spyder" which is said to be the most powerful manifold on the market?

I also want to buy a new tranny to be put in with everything else. Like I said Im obsessive and want to replace as much as possible. Which is more cost effective say a TKO T-5 or breaking the bank for a T-56 conversion?

Is the MSD ingnition kit the best for the 5.0 mustang ?

Which differental will suit me ? I was leaning to the electronic controlled limited - full locking unit .

Which Strut and spring combo is widely liked ? I wanted to put on Coilovers front and rear any favorits ?

Brakes ? I was looking and Gettin 13inch cobra brakes all around. Converted the rear drums to disk ?

Rims and tires, I would prefer street leagal slicks on the rear. What sizes are appropraite?

Seats and belts. I want Real racing seats and 5 or 6 point harness's, Corbeau I hear make decent seats for a fair price. And as for the belts anyone have any suggestions or bad experiances ?

With a little guidace will I be able to install the gears myself ? Should I maybe just buy pre-built rear-ends ?

I have used the Tweecer RT for tuning on my SHO and was going to try it with the mustang inless there was a better choice ? I want real time data logging and the ablitity to moniter on a laptop inside the car. On note of tuning I went with larger fuel pump and injectors then I belived I would need because I was under the impression I can tune it so the car will run fine intill I really need the parts. I hate to buy 2 sets of injectors.

I know I could have bought 3 Supercharger kits by now but I again say Im very obsessive and want everything done in turn. All done right or not at all. I want everything else ready and soon will come a Turbo Kit. I enjoy engineering my own turbo kits and will be happy to work on this project after the car is ready.

Any suggestions are greaty welcome, once again sorry for the long post If you take the time to read it thank you and I apprciate and help. Any other parts I can replace while this is going on ? TPR make bushing for 91 mustangs ? they must im sure. I know Im forgetting things so I will add any more comments later. Thank you again for the help and patiance if you read this. I hope to be a good part of the mustang community

Evan Kenna
Portland , OR

roundman

You need to slow down for a minute and decide what the final use of the car will be before you buy another thing. You need to choose between a street setup, street/strip, or full race before you can decide on the final engine configuration as this will affect things like the compression ratio, materials for the pistons, rods, crank, etc., bore and stroke, and so on and so on. getting a short block assembled from DSS is not a bad idea, but you need to talk to them a lot about what you want the engine to do and what parts they think you should have in it. this is expecially important if you really intend to install a turbo on it later on.
as far as the racing seats and belts go, you shouldn't do this unless you install a roll bar for the shoulder harness to be attached to. and if you move the battery to the rear and expect to run at a drag strip, you need to also install a master battery cut-off switch in order to pass tech at the strip. MSD makes a great ignition for Mustangs so you can't go wrong using them. I would stay away from the solid motor mounts unless you make this a drag race only car as the vibrations they transmit into the chassis will make long trips no so much fun. Get some good aftermarket poly ones instead and use a torque limiter if you go to the track a lot. I wouldn't recommend doing the rear gears yourself unless you have an experienced person assist you in doing so as they can be tricky to get just right. since you've already bought the Ford headers, this limits your choice of cylinder heads that they will fit too. you also need to make sure the wheels are selected along with the brakes so that they will fit each other. this is especially critical to do right.

Tims 88GT

also if you run a 13inch rotor you have to run a 17x9 wheel, go with baer brakes and they have 12front and 12 rear that way you can run a 16inch wheel, then your sidewall on your tire will be taller and you will get better traction.

Demon_Mustang

Well, you can do the rear gears yourself, you just got to measure I think from the yoke to where the gears are and match them before and after, adjusting using shims. I'm not sure how to explain it, but I've seen how it's done, and my friend knows how to do it, so most likely the two of us will do it instead of bringing it somewhere, just need a gear puller and a few other tools...

Tims 88GT

sears has a 3 tooth puller that is like $70 it should work great, what i did is i got another bearing took it to my machinest and he honed it out so it slides on the pinion smooth, that way you can put it in the housing with shims as many times as you need to, to get the gears set up right.