5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

i'm back! and have a question

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Old 02-18-2008, 11:38 PM
  #11  
mjr46
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Default RE: i'm back! and have a question

have the alt tested first and see what the test reveals
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:46 PM
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Stevens91gt
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how would i test the alt?
i've put a voltmeter and it read 14.5 when revved up
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:50 PM
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Liquid_02
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I have an electric fan in my car... nothing but trouble. Finally when all out and bought the best fan controller you could buy. Was around $200 for that, + the fan. Forget what the controller was called, and my car's in storage so i can't even look. Was just a smaller compnay though, but works great. No need for a 2-speed fan as it will increment fan speed by 10% as your car needs it.

BUT if I were you I wouldn't bother, that's the common mis-consception "With an electric fan, my car will make more power" No. Electric fans draw more HP from your engine than a clutch fan. You are converying mechanical energy (engine) to electrical (alternator/battery) back to mechanical (fan) with an electric fan, and every time you do that, there is a 20% efficiency loss. So your fan is drawing approx. 35% more power than a clutch fan would.

I wanted the electric fan for the simple reason that I could leave the fan on after I shut down the car, and the stock fan won't cool the 408 I'm building, nor will there be enough room.

You'll see where I'm coming from when you're stuck on the side of the road pulling off your rad-cap to relieve the pressure in your boiling engine with your shirt off and wrapped around your hands so the gushing coolant doesn't burn you one the busiest street in the city because all the wiring for your rad fan burnt to a crisp and melted all the fuses together so your fan doesn't work. Yes, this happened to me. I was upset, second time ever driving my car.
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:52 PM
  #14  
Stevens91gt
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ouch[:'(]
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:52 PM
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Liquid_02
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ORIGINAL: Stevens91gt

how would i test the alt?
i've put a voltmeter and it read 14.5 when revved up
You need an proper ammeter. Voltage means nothing, amperage is all that matters
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:54 PM
  #16  
Stevens91gt
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and how do i test it with the ammeter?
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:57 PM
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Liquid_02
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ORIGINAL: Stevens91gt

and how do i test it with the ammeter?
Honestly, I've never used one before, never had the need, at our shop we have an AVR that has a clamp that goes around the positive cable for the alternator and it tells you the output of the alternator. As lots of times, the alt will put out good voltage, but low amperage, so both need to be checked
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:59 PM
  #18  
Stevens91gt
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and if there is low amperage?
..bad alt?

ahh i have to go to work now
i'll read the responses later
thanks i hate working graveyard
..damn UPS
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Old 02-19-2008, 12:07 AM
  #19  
Liquid_02
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Well alternators are always repairable, but if it does have low amperage, it's garbage. They aren't even worth repairing when you can get a new one for $100. But first off i'd get rid of the underdrive pulley on the alt. that pulley is known to cause issues with charging
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Old 02-19-2008, 12:37 AM
  #20  
nmerrill
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Default RE: i'm back! and have a question

Just take it off and have it tested at auto zone or something. Its free
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