BushDude

Hey everyone.

I have learned an awful lot just reading and hanging around the forums. I hope I have learned enough to include the vitals needed to get help in the right direction.

I guess it is time for me to stop being a JAFO (Just Another F@#King Observer). Been guesting here for about 2 months after I purchased my coworkers' son's mustang. I am the third owner. He had it for a month and decided he didn't want it anymore and I jumped at the chance. The price was right ($1400) and I was looking to get back into a mustang. The body and interior are in good condition. Trans and clutch are in good condition. Both Rear tires still lay rubber.

Here is my dilemna. Any help would be appreciated.

As it stands now the car runs very strong especially above 3 grand. However When it gets hot it looses oil pressure.

Currently:
1990 LX Hatch 5.0
5-speed manual
stock gears
F-cam
C&L 73 MAF
Stock TB and Injectors
Stock Heads
Stock Headers
BBK Hi-Flow Cat H-Pipe
Stock Block with Rod Knock
223K Miles

I have already ordered:

The TFS engine kit thru Fox Lake with stage 1 porting. The car came with an MGW shifter and a set of Pro 5.0 3.90 gears in the box uninstalled.

I will be ordering this Wednesday the following...

BBK 1 5/8" Full Length
BBK Catalytic H-Pipe (X-Pipe)
73-76mm MAF Calibrated for 24# Injectors
Edelbrock 70mm TB
FRP 24# Injectors
FPR
Under the Hood Inline Fuel Guage
255lph internal pump
MSD 6AL
Sub Frame Connectors

I am looking for a good short block for approximately $1500. Anyone have any info on P.A.W. I have sent emails to DSS and CHP as well.

Please provide Suggestions on Mass Air Meters as well(Kind of at a lost since Pro-M went under)

This is strictly a street vehicle. I doubt it will ever see any track duty. I would like to stay with the 302 based block.

Thanks for the help.

Dbeck002

mass air meters, i never had a problem with C&L.


if you want to keep the car street than i suggest you keep the stock block, bore it and then rebuild it with a mild 331 stroker kit. youll be making 400HP and still very streetable.

stanglx2002

why do you need such a big fuel pump

BushDude

Dbeck002,
I thought about just rebuilding the current block, but from what I have seen for machine shop prices around here I thought I might be able to get a decent shortblock or 331. Besides without knowing what damage has been done with the rod knocking and 200K plus miles, I was kind of leary.

stanglx2002,
I went with the 255 pump because I had to replace it anyway. Someone had mentioned the theory of using the FPR to control the delivery as long as the system maintains the fuel tank return lines and it should be okay. Is this wrong? I do recall the issue of the fuel getting warm due to recirculation. Is this the concern?

Thanks for the help

stanglx2002

yeah you can have problems with to much fuel return. Here is fuel pump info i posted either

https://mustangforums.com/m_452333/m.../tm.htm#452333

BushDude

I knew I had read something on it before. So a 155 will be more than enough. Cool. Thanks

stanglx2002

yeah it will thats what i put on there bc im running about 400 HP