mjr46

cool just make sure you are using a resistor wire or ballast resistor

DriftingRz

what is that? how much would it cost. any links?

DriftingRz

so do you have any idea what my problem is with keeping my engine running mjr?

mjr46

here read this: it'll explain it simple:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballast_(electrical)

mjr46

what happened to make it stop running?? was it running fine then all of a sudden it stopped?/ give me a quick brief history of what happened and what's going on

mjr46

this is what it looks like and any parts store should have them

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku

DriftingRz

well tuesday my car stalled out a few times, then wednesday it just shut off going thought an intersection.. my car used to have a hei dizzy on it that was ghetto rigged when i bought the car.



i wasnt getting an spark at all. so yesterday me and my dad put in the ford autoline dizzy, bought a msd cap and rotor for it, aswell as a new accel universal 12v coil which isnt pictured




the dizzy has been pulled like 200 times these last 2 days, turning engine over to find TDC on cyliner 1 without the plug in and all. thenwhen putting all the wires back on, the car will crank up and run Strong for 2-3 seconds just fine, then it shuts off for some unknown reason

DriftingRz

when playing with the timing it seems that when i turn dizzy farthest clockwise is when it runs best, any the other way and it doesnt even try, so it kinda seems like i need to turn it farther, possibly the timing in the actual dizzy is off? my dad wants to take the timing cover off to check it out, see if it has slack, but id rather not if i can avoid it its a bit of work to get to it

DriftingRz

and thanks mrj for the info on the resistor

mjr46

finding tdc is not that hard and no need to take off cover.. that would be a waste of time for an initial no spark prob.....put your finger over number 1 cyl with plug out and when you feel a rush of air come out it's at tdc and then look down at the balancer and line pointer up on 0 then stab dizzy with rotor pointing to number 1...wire up like I mentioned and set the point gap then check dweel while cranking over with coil wire removed of course or rotor removed which ever you perfer... then once dwell is set right = point gap adjusted right.. reassemble all and crank over rotating dizzy until it starts.....as long as you have fuel pressure and flow.. it should start