HP gains changing timing to 14
#2
RE: HP gains changing timing to 14
Probably none. Advancing ignition timing will pick up the torque and throttle response but often not increase horsepower.
Will the car et better, yes. I got 1 tenth and 0.5mph going from 10 to 15 with a relatively stock 5L.
Will the car et better, yes. I got 1 tenth and 0.5mph going from 10 to 15 with a relatively stock 5L.
#4
RE: HP gains changing timing to 14
just because you cranked your timing to 14° does not mean you will benefit from it at all. I actually found with my car that out of 10°, 12°, and 15°... 12° actually made MORE power
#6
RE: HP gains changing timing to 14
advancing timing = +hp
no doubt about it
the problem is...most people advance timing 4 more hp, then add octane to negate it
timing 101 :
1) find the timing marks on your balancer, then chalk them up real good, wipe off the excess so the lines and numbers are bright white
2) start the car
3) pull the SPOUT connector (on the dizzy harness...the r's will drop but it shouldn't stall...if it stalls, you need to fix vac line isues)
4) hook your timing light up to #1 plug wire (as shown on your dizzy cap)
5) shoot the timing marks.....see whre it is...12* is usually good and just keep 87 octane for optimal hp
6) if lower...loosen the 1/2 " dizzy nut w/ a dizzy wrench ($8.95 from sears....or use a reg 1/2" wrench and risk losing your sleeve) back it off...rotate clockwise and shoot it....get it to 12* lock it down and reshoot it...might take a few times to be exact...when you tighten it it might add more timing
7) when you get it good....put the SPOUT back in, the r's will jump up
** if you do not remove the SPOUT..it will not take the adjustment
** you can adnavce more...but read your plugs
** advance is the scale that goes from 0-20 (thats btdc) the scale that goes 10-0 is atdc
i think thats it...but i'm drunk...so don't mind the grammar skillz
hp #'s in bumping ??? maybe 0-20 hp from least to max gain
adding octane decreases hp more than advancing timing...you wanna be as LEAN as possible
** add timing for more hp....add octane to stop sparkknock
i need ber...c-ya
no doubt about it
the problem is...most people advance timing 4 more hp, then add octane to negate it
timing 101 :
1) find the timing marks on your balancer, then chalk them up real good, wipe off the excess so the lines and numbers are bright white
2) start the car
3) pull the SPOUT connector (on the dizzy harness...the r's will drop but it shouldn't stall...if it stalls, you need to fix vac line isues)
4) hook your timing light up to #1 plug wire (as shown on your dizzy cap)
5) shoot the timing marks.....see whre it is...12* is usually good and just keep 87 octane for optimal hp
6) if lower...loosen the 1/2 " dizzy nut w/ a dizzy wrench ($8.95 from sears....or use a reg 1/2" wrench and risk losing your sleeve) back it off...rotate clockwise and shoot it....get it to 12* lock it down and reshoot it...might take a few times to be exact...when you tighten it it might add more timing
7) when you get it good....put the SPOUT back in, the r's will jump up
** if you do not remove the SPOUT..it will not take the adjustment
** you can adnavce more...but read your plugs
** advance is the scale that goes from 0-20 (thats btdc) the scale that goes 10-0 is atdc
i think thats it...but i'm drunk...so don't mind the grammar skillz
hp #'s in bumping ??? maybe 0-20 hp from least to max gain
adding octane decreases hp more than advancing timing...you wanna be as LEAN as possible
** add timing for more hp....add octane to stop sparkknock
i need ber...c-ya
#8
RE: HP gains changing timing to 14
My car is pretty stock except for the exhaust and air silencer removed. Will bumping up my timing to 14 be worth it? I am running 91 to 94 depends on where I fill up.
Thanks for everyones input as I am just learning here.
Fairlee
Thanks for everyones input as I am just learning here.
Fairlee
#9
RE: HP gains changing timing to 14
ORIGINAL: 302army187
pretty good info, but its 2pm here.......... how the hell are you already drunk on easter?
pretty good info, but its 2pm here.......... how the hell are you already drunk on easter?
for stock 5.0 i'd go 12* and 87 octane
forget what everyone tells you.....learn what octane does for real...it reduces detonation **read that ** it makes the combustibility higher...you don't want that
the ultimate combo is to be as LEAN as possible....as safely as possible.....most go phat yto be safe which is fine..but don't do it to the point it robs you
#10
RE: HP gains changing timing to 14
Higher octane rating means it takes a higher temp to ignite gasoline.
It doesnt always follow (as often stated) thathigher octanemeansa slower burn rate.
Ignitiontiming needs to match theburn rate of the fuel you are running.
Racefuel is offered in many different burn rates for similar octane ratings. The fuel used in 18,000 rpm F1 Racing Motorcycles may have high octane ratings but it does not have a slow flame travel speed. It also is very expensive.
If you reach the limits of the octane rating of the fuel before you reach the optimalignition timing for the burn rate you need a higher octanerating.
How do you know you have an adequate octane rating? Once you exceed the optimal ignition timing the car will slow down. This is because the air/fuel mix burns to early reducing cylinder pressure. If you reach this point without any "knock" then the fuel has adequate octane.
It doesnt always follow (as often stated) thathigher octanemeansa slower burn rate.
Ignitiontiming needs to match theburn rate of the fuel you are running.
Racefuel is offered in many different burn rates for similar octane ratings. The fuel used in 18,000 rpm F1 Racing Motorcycles may have high octane ratings but it does not have a slow flame travel speed. It also is very expensive.
If you reach the limits of the octane rating of the fuel before you reach the optimalignition timing for the burn rate you need a higher octanerating.
How do you know you have an adequate octane rating? Once you exceed the optimal ignition timing the car will slow down. This is because the air/fuel mix burns to early reducing cylinder pressure. If you reach this point without any "knock" then the fuel has adequate octane.