mjr46

I'm using quaker state 10w 30 for break in with the api cert... but honestly I know how you feel a previous motor had a camshaft failure just like yours and my last motor had a main bearing failure.....and this time I was as you paranoid and had nightmares of wasting money only to see the same thing happen...you can uses the best of the best products but if it's gonna blow due to a error in a clearance or assembley somewhere ..it's gonna blow...I asked my builder 3-4 times if the motor would be fine with the 10w 30 api standard quaker state and he said it'll be fine....I put a heavy magnet on the filter and after 50 -75 mile change it and cut the filter open and look for any steel shot from the machining/cleaning process..I have 95 miles on motor and car is stitting at work waiting for the oil change when I get a free moment...but I don't have any doubts......I still worry but if it's gonna happen it's gonna happen and the previous motors I had followed build to the t and used the best of the best products........and in my 81 jetta I used the cheapest of the cheap...ie like wal-mart super tech oil and filters and that puppy has 240k on it...just don't make sense!! cheap ftw!!!

aode08

Its the oil, if you have flat tappet, you have to get used to using with that additive or an oil with it.

wrenchturner75

up until a year ago ive been running conventional motor oil. 10w30 in the winter 10w 40 in the summer, ive run this oil in high performance engines and street engines with flat tappet cams. i dont know what problems you guys are having weather your running too much spring pressure, or inproper cam break ins. ive never had a camshaft failure! never. i now run royal purple because i like the extended sevice intervals i get. ive built many motors for other people and they never had any problems so to point your finger at a motor oil? ive used different makes of cams, from lunati to edelbrock, to even a summit camshaft all had no problems. too much spring pressure will eat lobes, inproper cam break in is a sure way to kill a cam. not applying enough lube, inproper installation, i could go on all damn day.

thunderjet429

use GM EOS, Engine Oil Supplement, many cam manufacturers reccomend it, its available at you local GM parts store i work at one and use it in every motor for assy. and break in... yes rotella was reformulated and no longer contains zinc.

thunderjet429

wrenchturner75, yes engine oil was reformulated and no longer has zinc a major lubricant in oil, many engine builders around me had problems with cam failure several use breakin springs with low spring pressure for breakin and they still wiped, we are talking about guys with many many years of experience... i told one of my friends about this when it first started happening he laughed and said i was faulty install a month latter he had two wipe on him... he now buys EOS off me by the case. i saw one wipe in a big block ford even and they never wipe cams. but what alot of people didn't know is that eaton the nations largest lifter manufacturer stopped making flat tappet lifters and all the lifters were coming in off shore from china and a few other places and that made the problem even worse... i have heard that some us companies have started producing lifters again. but i don't care everything i build has a roller now. they took zinc out of oil because it damages converters and it's not needed in a roller motor

tyler72

So, basically, Rotella isn't wortha **** anymore either? This sucks, damn our silly government and the freaking EPA. I know that they do a lot of important things in protecting our invironment and I think that is a good thing, but come on! They are really taking this too far IMO. What about all of us that still have flat tappet engines??? I mean, I don't see the EPA coming around and writing all of us checks to go out and by new engines b/c their polices caused a chain of reaction events that led to our engine failures. Its just highly frustrating! So, I feel that I am going to run Vavoline "Racing" oil, probably 10w-40, or 10w-30 with a ZDDP additive on top of that for the break in, and continue with the same stuff at every oil change. I have 2 questions though. First, do all GM dealers keep the EOS additive and the Lifter Prelube additive in stock? if so this would work good. Secondly, has any body heard of ZddPlus? Its an additive that I found online that is supposed to have 4 times the ZDDP than the GM stuff. Which would you all go with???

thunderjet429

the dealer i work at keeps EOS not all do though... i would use EOS it works and is easy to find.

mjr46

so does anyone have a pic of a bottole of the appropriate additive and or oils that have necessary additives already in it..my 66 is flat tappet and will need a oil change soon