I am changing distributor and need some help !!!!
#1
I am changing distributor and need some help !!!!
someone please walk me through this. also how and where should i set my timing. i have edelbrock heads w/ E303 cam,msd,gt40 intake, lontubes, and a lot more but thats probably all you need to know for timing. let me know if you need more details on my setup. i need to know how to set the timing with a timing light (in detail). Please Help. Thanks.
#3
RE: I am changing distributor and need some help !!!!
Ok, as far as the distributor goes. Take the cap off and mark where the rotor button is pointing ( preferably with a permenant marker and on the engine somewhere don't be silly and mark the distributor lol). Also mark where the TFI module is pointing for a reference when you put the new on in. Onces its marked you can unbolt, unhook and pull it ( be careful of the oil pump drive shaft, just pull the distributor up slow out of the block). Line up the rotor position that you have marked on the new one and set it in. This is a little tricky because of the gear mesh, what you will have to do is move the rotor about 1 to 1.5 inches back from the mark and slide the distributor in. As it meshes with the cam gear it will rotate into place, might take a few tries so don't get discouraged. Put the cap back on and your all set.
Timing:
Clamp the wire clamp on #1 plug as close to the block as possible and most of them have an arrow on them for which way to clamp them. If it has a pos and neg hook them up as well, pull the spout connector and start the car. Check timing from the passenger side by aiming the light at the damper you will see a timing pointer with numbers on it. The point is 0, past that is advanced and before it is retarded if memory serves correctly. You want about 12 degrees advance to start with, then reinstall the spout connector and take it for a spin. Its been a while since I timed anything so I may have that advance and retard mixed up, better get a conformation on that lol.
Timing:
Clamp the wire clamp on #1 plug as close to the block as possible and most of them have an arrow on them for which way to clamp them. If it has a pos and neg hook them up as well, pull the spout connector and start the car. Check timing from the passenger side by aiming the light at the damper you will see a timing pointer with numbers on it. The point is 0, past that is advanced and before it is retarded if memory serves correctly. You want about 12 degrees advance to start with, then reinstall the spout connector and take it for a spin. Its been a while since I timed anything so I may have that advance and retard mixed up, better get a conformation on that lol.
#7
RE: I am changing distributor and need some help !!!!
hell yeah, i hope it helps too. if not , i think im gonna carb it. i am so sick of not being able to enjoy my car, and if i have to carb it and sacrifice a few mpg then so be it. I think i am going to get a Yamaha R1 soon, so the stang will be sitting a lot more anyway and gas mileage wont be a huge factor. a mustang is kinda like a bike anyway- they arent too fun in the snow and rain and you enjoy them most on nice sunny days.
#10
RE: I am changing distributor and need some help !!!!
Dan,
Did you ever try the A9P ECM that you had? I'm thinking about picking up a new one at Advance Auto Parts, my neighbor is a asst manager there and will ensure I get a A9L. I think it was like $129 with $100 core, I will get a core from the JY for like $30 and keep my A9L in the car now. I am still running rich but its driveable at this point, I just have a gut feeling mine is bad what with the whole door lock motors shorted out scenario when I got the car. The previous owner tried to put a remote door open system in and fried all the door lock motors, so my thinking is if it shorted that bad then there had to be damage to the ECM. I also found like 3 fuses blown in the fuse panel so it took a helluva shot.
Did you ever try the A9P ECM that you had? I'm thinking about picking up a new one at Advance Auto Parts, my neighbor is a asst manager there and will ensure I get a A9L. I think it was like $129 with $100 core, I will get a core from the JY for like $30 and keep my A9L in the car now. I am still running rich but its driveable at this point, I just have a gut feeling mine is bad what with the whole door lock motors shorted out scenario when I got the car. The previous owner tried to put a remote door open system in and fried all the door lock motors, so my thinking is if it shorted that bad then there had to be damage to the ECM. I also found like 3 fuses blown in the fuse panel so it took a helluva shot.