83GT5.0

I only paid 75 for the longtubes. And they went in in two days. I didn't have the money for BBK's. I only had to cut the third and fourth tubes because it wouldn't fit in on either side (one side for the steering shaft and one for the starter). When the gaskets aren't blown, it sounds great. So hopefully they will be fine after i get some aluminum ones.

imnotmy77stang

my hedman longtubes had a couple slip joints like that and one HAD to be used (#1 tube goes under the crossmember on my II) and i know they leak as well. i tried a small muffler clamp but i think the only solution is to have someone buzz them up with a MIG welder. any exhaust shop shouldnt charge you more than a couple dollars to just throw a bead or two on there for you.

as for the leaky gaskets, which kind are you using? local racetrack experience has tought me two things. 1: use high-temp rtv (permatex) on both sides of the gaskets, and 2: locking header bolts will save your ***.

me? i used the cheapo pleated metal gaskets with permatex ultra black silicon. drilled small holes thru the heads of my header bolts, but didnt wire them together in pairs yet (like they do on aircraft parts to keep them from coming loose) because i wanted to let the motor go thru a few heat cycles and then re-tighten the bolts down before wiring them together.

pic somewhat related


oh btw, hooker supercomps FTMFW - BBK's can go suck a fat d*ck [8D]

jkrum10238

I dont wanna sound like a jerk off but why didn't u just take the starter and the steering shaft out? woulda took u an extra hour mabye wouldn't have all this trouble

83GT5.0

Did take the starter and steering shaft out. Couldnt get the starter back in when the header was in place. Had to ding the header pretty good to fit around the starter. And I didnt feel like shelling out a couple hundred for a mini starter. Did take the steering shaft out, but still had to cut the flange because the tube bends way out to the side and then wraps around the front of the other tubes. Had the engine jacked up and everything. I wouldn't have cut it if I didn't have to. But there was no way it woulda went in if i didnt.

AdderMk2

I put a set of Flowtech LT's into an 89, and they didnt give me as much trouble as you are describing.

nseoi

the all time fox hater had a fox, huh :P

stang2race

I bought these piece of crap headers too. And I had to hack every bit of them to get them to fit my 79'. Good thing I am Handy with a MIG welder. BBK are surely the way to go next time I put a new motor in. And I did remove the steering shaft and starter. Actually I had to get a mini starter even though the foreign idiot at Flowtech's tech support told me I didn't have to. I think i seen Good, Fast, and cheap. You can only have 2 out of 3. Well in this case just cheap!!!

AdderMk2

Did I say it was MY car??? Hells ****ing no!

83GT5.0

I'm not sure of this but the steering shaft seems different on my fox compaired to my brother's 91 stang. So that may be a reason why. And the starter was huge! I went lookin for other starters and the new foxes had different starters too. Maybe thats why I had more problems. I did what my dad's friend suggested and put copper gasket sealant around the joints so that they would be sealed. Hopefully they will work considering they are rated at 600 or 700 degrees.

mjr46

If you read my post in reference to his post the point I was trying to clarify was his statement of "you don't cut premade exhaust parts".....that's what I was refering to as misinfo in the case of the flowtech headers... it tells you right on the instruction page to cut at the flange..to install.....whether or not you do that is personal preference/choice..either way will work......on my starter side even with the k-member it is impossible to have installed them without cutting them and jacking motor up..and scratching the fresh engine bay paint up........besides a little header wrap solved any leak