5.0 MPG

ohh there not that bad

dont give up, just ask one question at a time and dont be afraid to bite back.

be prepared fora little sword fighting around here. were just a bunch of swinging cocs .

BlessedHellride

&lt\\;P&gt\\;It happens, there are alot of guys on here that will down grade you for everything that you say you are gonna do to your car. Even if they haven’t done it themselves. This internet has made them professional engine, chassis builders.&lt\\;/P&gt\\;
&lt\\;P&gt\\;&amp\\;nbsp\\;&lt\\;/P&gt\\;
&lt\\;P&gt\\;&amp\\;nbsp\\; If I had to do it over again, I would do a 347 with a 5.4&quot\\; rod length. Just a better rod/crank angle. Long story, but go with the 5.4&quot\\; rod. It also depends on what you want out of your engine as far as performance wise, but if all that you can afford is GT 40’s, then by all means, get them. NO, you don’t have to have a CUSTOM CAM, but they help. I get so tired of hearing that you have to have AFR’s and a Custom ground cam to go fast around here I’m almost sick to my stomach. Don’t listen to them about the GT 40 heads not making any power, I’ve seen those heads scream down the track at sub 10 sec E.T. in the quarter mile. Do what you want and can afford to do. Have fun while you are doing it because that is what matters most.&lt\\;/P&gt\\;
&lt\\;P&gt\\;&amp\\;nbsp\\;&lt\\;/P&gt\\;
&lt\\;P&gt\\;&amp\\;nbsp\\;Ol’ Woody over at fordstrokers.com does have the best damm customer service that I have ever seen. I built my own 347 with a stock block and let me tell you, I could have been money way ahead if I would have purchased a shortblock from him instead of being a hard head with the attitude that I can do it myself for cheaper, I was wrong. It’s my understanding that they have a short waiting list, but that’s because they build them like Forrest Woods, one at a time. Built to your specs and or money. You won’t be dissapointed with them. After I kill my 347. I will order a stroked 393 or 408 from them.&lt\\;/P&gt\\;

FLcracker9

&nbsp\\;
Don't throw the towel in just yet, you can and will get some solid advice on here. I agree with most, for a 331 or 347, buying a shortblock from Woodsy (fordstrokers.com) is your best and cheapest option. You can buy a 347 rotating assembly for $800 - $1500, but like the others said, add in the machine shop costs, and the assembled shortblock looks a lot better. Yes the GT40 heads will choke a 347, unless they are ported to the max. My advise: buy&nbsp\\;a shortblock from Woodsy,&nbsp\\;drive it while you save&nbsp\\;up for better heads, or build a 306 and&nbsp\\;port your GT40s and get a good cam. either way you will need suspension mods to put the power to the ground.&nbsp\\;

FLcracker9

&nbsp\\;
Does that mean you're willing to trade your 347 for my stock block 160,000 mile 302 (lol)?&nbsp\\;

5spd GT

I have never agree'd with the "302 parts make 302 power".&nbsp\\; If you increase you cubic inch, you will increase the power.
&nbsp\\;
A 300 RWHP 302 is nice.&nbsp\\; Add 47 more cubic inches and you are going to gain HP and TQ, trust me.
&nbsp\\;
I know that Jeff did not mean it so literally, but I wanted to clarify that often tossed around statement.
&nbsp\\;
Also, there is not new technology that allows the infamous 347 not to burn oil.&nbsp\\; A competent engine builder that pays attention to details is huge.&nbsp\\; There are some more forgiving designs, like a solid piston (no oil ring support rail needed), like on 99.99% of OEM vehicles.&nbsp\\;
&nbsp\\;
Two basic options you can choose from:
&nbsp\\;
3.40" Stroke - 5.315" Rod - 1.175" Piston (suggested for first time builders).
3.40" Stroke - 5.400" Rod - 1.090" Piston (suggested for experienced builders).
&nbsp\\;
An engine can burn/leak oil if precautionary steps are not taken.&nbsp\\; The 347 is not the most ideal geometrically designed engine, but there are a share of worse designs as well.

.boB

I'd pretty much agree with everything Blessed said.&nbsp\\;
&nbsp\\;
For piston type, unless you're using a power adder, use hypereutectic's.&nbsp\\; They'll be just as strong as forged in that application, cheaper than forged, and &nbsp\\;won't change size much like forged parts do.&nbsp\\; I've been using them for many years on a number of engines without any problems.&nbsp\\; But I never use power adders.&nbsp\\;&nbsp\\;
&nbsp\\;
Consider a company callede Performance Automotive Warehouse (PAW).&nbsp\\; They sell engines in "kit" form.&nbsp\\; You get all the parts, and have to do the assembly yourself.&nbsp\\; All the machine work is done if you buy a short/long block.&nbsp\\;&nbsp\\; Almost always cheaper than rebuilding a used motor.&nbsp\\;
&nbsp\\;
There are plenty of good off the shelf cams that will make excellent power.&nbsp\\; Roller cams can be had used for about 1/4 - 1/2 of new.&nbsp\\; I don't recommend using a flat tappet cam at all.&nbsp\\;
&nbsp\\;
Also, don't use stock heads, even those that have been ported.&nbsp\\;&nbsp\\; You'll spend a lot of money trying to get them to perform to the levels of a halfway decent aftermarket set.&nbsp\\; You'de be surprised at how cheap cast iron performance heads are.&nbsp\\; Windsor Jr from Summit are $410 each, ready to run.&nbsp\\; An excellent head that will really flow some air.&nbsp\\;
&nbsp\\;
&nbsp\\;

NELLY97Cobra

Thanks Guys, you just cheered me up lol. I just didnt explain myself too much on the first post. I built many race engines, mostly turbo hondas and rx7. My dream has always been to own a 96 or 97 mustang GT. Since I have more experience now I decided to buy a nice looking V6 for really cheap and strip it and build it to the way I like. But I need a little help as to which combination of parts I should go with since you guys know more about Mustang performance than I do. I have the 302 block already and I checked out Woody's site and I do understand that his prices are so good that I didnt think built blocks like that were even available that cheap. But I would still like to build this one myself and be hard headed as well. It will make me happier everytime I turn the car on and hear the motor and know that I built it you know?

the thing about the machine shop is true but luckily we have a really good friend that does all of our machinework for cheap since we give him alot of work. Its a big engine performance shop over here in Orlando Florida. Hes going to prep my block and the heads if I go with the GT40s. I have the money to buy the parts I need to build the block, but I need help as to what to get. I want to make lots of power naturally aspirated and wont be driving the car every day.

The easiest and cheapest thing to do is use the stock crank and build it 302. But I dont want to end up a month after I finish the car and say to myself "Why didnt I just spend a few extra bucks and stroke it"

With all that said, Thanks BlessedHellRide, 5spd GT, .Bob, FLcracker9, and 5.0 MPG for all the help so far.

NELLY97Cobra

I dont know if I mentioned or not that its going to be carburated not fuel injected. Afew guys on here lead me to go with a Holley 650 instead of a 850 that I was planning on getting. Way too much carb!

mjr46

shhhhhhhhh!!!I'm incognito.. the newbies aren't suppose to know that!!!

BlessedHellride

If you are going to run the GT40's, I wouldn't see any need in going with a carburetor any bigger than the 650. I am running the "taboo" cheap set ofaluminum 190cc head with a Holley 750cfm. A friend of mine is running a set of Vic Jr's on his 347 and he runs a Demon 750, but he has a beast, runs mid/upper nines on a 125 shot.