Electric Water Pump On Street
#1
Electric Water Pump On Street
Anyone out there running an electric water pump on their street driven car? I was thinking of installing one, along with a Lincoln Mark VIII electric fan. Found these on ebay, figureit mayfree up a few ponies, but I'm worried that it won't cool enough?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WOW-E...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WOW-E...spagenameZWDVW
#2
RE: Electric Water Pump On Street
should be perfectly fine...
but with somthing like that id get a well known brand like Miezere, expensive so id make it less of a priority other things can be done with that kind of money
but with somthing like that id get a well known brand like Miezere, expensive so id make it less of a priority other things can be done with that kind of money
#3
RE: Electric Water Pump On Street
I was thinking the same thing as you, but I really don't think the electric pump is any shorter than the stock mechanical and I've only got about 1/8" clearance to my Mark 8 fan now.
Plus, I don't want to be tooling down the highway some day and grenade my motor because a wire burned up or solder joint failed or something. I'd stay mechanical.
In regard to only the fan. My Mark 8 fan and Fluidyne radiator can take my engine temp from 220 to 120 in about 90 seconds in 80 degree ambient, high humidty, sitting in my garage with a cover over the nose of the car (no air flow other than the floor up).
Plus, I don't want to be tooling down the highway some day and grenade my motor because a wire burned up or solder joint failed or something. I'd stay mechanical.
In regard to only the fan. My Mark 8 fan and Fluidyne radiator can take my engine temp from 220 to 120 in about 90 seconds in 80 degree ambient, high humidty, sitting in my garage with a cover over the nose of the car (no air flow other than the floor up).
#5
RE: Electric Water Pump On Street
Well, I'll probably stay with the belt drive for now, I was just trying to save a little money. My car fund is just about tapped out.I've spent a small fortune on parts, and I'm sitting here looking at them next to the computer on the floor. Haven't had the chance to start on the stang because I'm in the middle of restoring my 74 F250 Hi-boy. I paid $500 for my 89 LX Hatchback, but I've spent over $5500 on parts, go figure! Here's why I can't splurge on a name brand water pump. I'm sure a lot of you can relate.
$1260 (shipped) for new TW heads with FRPP roller rockers, studs & hardened pushrods (corral).
$300 for 2 gooddoors and a good hatch (the old ones were rusted).
$560 for a custom CI cam with springs, cupsretainers and keepers.
$380 (shipped) for a brand new 3500rpm Redneck converter with 1 piece shaft (Corral).
$130 for a brand new MSD billet distributor (Corral)
$90 for a fairly new MSD 6AL ignition Box (Corral)
$75 for a new MSD 2-step delay
$380 for a set of good used Weld Draglites, skinnys up front, 10" rear(shipped, Corral)
$290 for a set (2) of new Nitto Drag Radials 275/50/15
$425 for new UPR full length subframe connectors, upper (adj) and lower arms,new bushings
$125 for a polished Power Plus intake (carb style, I already have a good Demon 650 carb)
$145 for a Mallory billet return style fuel regulator, with fittings andfuel guage
$90 for a Baumann shift kit with new boost valve
$90 for a slightly used FRPP ring and pinion (4.10, Corral)
$120 for Track loc rebuild kit (carbon fiber clutches)
$65 for a lincoln Mark VIII electric fan
$145 for anew5" Autometer Cobalt Tach w/shift light (ebay it was $189 brand new, and I got a $50 ebay gift certificate for Fathers day).
$47 for a Autometer Cobalt water temp guage (electrical)
$67 for a Autometer Cobalt oil pressure guage (mechanical)
$220 for a pair of strange 10 way struts
$60 for a pair of used Moroso front drag springs
$140 for a set of ceramic coated shorty headers
$440 for exhaust, Pypes header back all SS, w/SS violator mufflers and SS tips out back
Still need to buy:
B&M Hammer Shifter
UPR underdrive pulleys
Ford Racing Valve Covers
LokarTV cable
Lots of misc stuff
My wife's gonna divorce me!
$1260 (shipped) for new TW heads with FRPP roller rockers, studs & hardened pushrods (corral).
$300 for 2 gooddoors and a good hatch (the old ones were rusted).
$560 for a custom CI cam with springs, cupsretainers and keepers.
$380 (shipped) for a brand new 3500rpm Redneck converter with 1 piece shaft (Corral).
$130 for a brand new MSD billet distributor (Corral)
$90 for a fairly new MSD 6AL ignition Box (Corral)
$75 for a new MSD 2-step delay
$380 for a set of good used Weld Draglites, skinnys up front, 10" rear(shipped, Corral)
$290 for a set (2) of new Nitto Drag Radials 275/50/15
$425 for new UPR full length subframe connectors, upper (adj) and lower arms,new bushings
$125 for a polished Power Plus intake (carb style, I already have a good Demon 650 carb)
$145 for a Mallory billet return style fuel regulator, with fittings andfuel guage
$90 for a Baumann shift kit with new boost valve
$90 for a slightly used FRPP ring and pinion (4.10, Corral)
$120 for Track loc rebuild kit (carbon fiber clutches)
$65 for a lincoln Mark VIII electric fan
$145 for anew5" Autometer Cobalt Tach w/shift light (ebay it was $189 brand new, and I got a $50 ebay gift certificate for Fathers day).
$47 for a Autometer Cobalt water temp guage (electrical)
$67 for a Autometer Cobalt oil pressure guage (mechanical)
$220 for a pair of strange 10 way struts
$60 for a pair of used Moroso front drag springs
$140 for a set of ceramic coated shorty headers
$440 for exhaust, Pypes header back all SS, w/SS violator mufflers and SS tips out back
Still need to buy:
B&M Hammer Shifter
UPR underdrive pulleys
Ford Racing Valve Covers
LokarTV cable
Lots of misc stuff
My wife's gonna divorce me!
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