Hamutoff

to clairify on 2) I bet you have no guides inserted in there they are just the cast iron of the head material I'd bet, they can run a rough tool in there to 'pull up' the surrounding metal, this would provide the new channel for the valve stem to ride in = knurling, not high tech but old heads could be out of spec to the point where you need to do something like insert guide liners or knurl.

My recommendiation if you really want to use these heads is to go to local mahcine shop tell them your goal and ask how much it COULD cost if the heads need everything, add 10% to that

I think you would be money ahead if you go a different route like built up e7te complete package or aftermarket new heads. There are some aftermarket iron heads you might be interested in? DART iron eagle or world windsor junior for example, have smaller chambers and runners when compared to many..

also "i found summit valves, the correct diameter but it says for chevy.." valves are valves... when you build custom heads it only matters that they fit your application/build, not what they are originally intended for. Best luck!

FivePointOhh

parts list i already have down + head work = 513.16
this includes tax and shipping

headwork- 225 (no hardened seats but it will be ported bowls, exhaust, intake... then cleaning, crack check, bigger valves milled, valve job,milled and rocker armstuds installed)
valves- 127 (intake and exhaust 1.94 and 1.60)
pushrods- 33.88(hardened)
guideplates- 17.95(set)
rocker studs- 25.90(all 16)
head gaskets- 44.95(set)
+tax
+shipping
___________
513.16


then i'll buy harland 1.6 rockers for 217 andhoping to hit 300hp.

mjr46

just do what you planned!!! you'll be fine and last thing you wanna do is go e7 over the 289 heart shape chamber...the gain in compression will be more than worth it.. when I swapped from e7 to the c90e's that I purchased built up for 300.00 = made a world of difference...like I said fivepointoh...keep it at 500 and you'll be ahead as long as everything else checks out

FivePointOhh

Woot! im excited! next up after that is gears and sticky tires. im shootinfor 12.99 or betterN/Abefore the summers out.

mjr46

with my c90e heads and a .500/.500 cam and rpm intake....I ran 13.3 @104 on street tires...so you'll be close to 12's

Hamutoff

Let us know your total $$ when you are drivin it down the road

FivePointOhh

did you have any suspension mods/gears or anything?

i have all my suspension done. all i need now is gears/tires and i have full hci now. im actually hopeful of mid to low 12's but 12.99wouldmake me very happy.

FivePointOhh

oh i will! if this works out like i hope hci only ran me a total cost in parts $980(this doesnt include all the supporting stuff with it.) proof to the other newbies aroudn here it can be done without the trickflow top end kit for 2500 dollars.

Hamutoff

I know you are excited and rightly so! I know that of course do what you want but if you really want to know if you are saving money well the answer is most likely you are not.
Hope you dont think I am being a jerk Im just adding up the figures you provided and comparing it to your stated desires.
You could save money and trouble, remember the heads I am comparing yours to are BRAND NEW. I want a fellow car buff to get what he wants and dont desire to put a dampner on your excitment but heads are a complicated, expensive, and hard working part of your engine and you'll hear time and time again any dollar spent in the heads beats out that same dollar spent anywhere else! I hope that it works out perfectly for you and best of luck but I want it to be properly represented that using old used heads set up for flat tappet and leaded gas will take a bit of doing and with a very small budget I dont think you have every single piece in the puzzle yet

Im just trying to head off machine shop shock for you

current cost of stated items = $805.16
this figure is without retainers, seals, keepers, hardened seats (and install)
inferred stated goal < $500


-

$409.75 each
assembled and including such items as retainers, seals, keepers, hardened seats springs guide plates,
Product: World Products Windsor Jr Cylinder Heads
Part Number: WRL-053030-1
Cylinder Head Style: Completely Assembled
Cylinder Head Material: Cast iron
Combustion Chamber Volume (cc): 58
Intake Runner Volume (cc): 180cc
Intake Port Location: Standard
Exhaust Port Shape: Square
Exhaust Port Location: Standard
Intake Valves Included: Yes
Intake Valve Diameter (in): 1.940 in.
Exhaust Valves Included: Yes
Exhaust Valve Diameter (in): 1.600 in.
Valve Springs Included: Yes
Maximum Valve Lift (in): 0.560 in.

Retainers Included: Yes
Retainer Material: Chromemoly steel
Locks Included: Yes
Lock Style: 7 degree
Valve Stem Seals Included: Yes
Rocker Arm Studs Included: Yes
Guideplates Included: Yes
Valve Seats Machined: Yes
Valve Seat Machine Style: 3-angle
Valve Seat Material: Steel

FivePointOhh

i totally understand what you're staying. i have the heads down at the shop as of this afternoon. magnafluxed while i was there. no crack so the heads are good, he was really impressed with their condition.

not to sound like a dick but you are kind of missing my point or i didnt state it well enough in the beginning. i got em cheap and with the service done after parts and tax they are as good as new. new valves, springs, retainers, locks, valve job, ported, cleaned, painted, seals, everything new on this head and im still 300 less then what you just suggested. i dont know the best but im willing to bet after all this work is done i'd have a similar outcome/performance out of these heads vs thewindsor jr.

now i can take that 400-500 dollars i saved and put it towards another important part, RR's. i dont have anything and even with the harland 1.6's im still under what you've suggested above $8xx.xx dollars for those heads.

if i went your way i'd still have to get RR's, and pushrods and my new springs are put to waste essentially that i've already aquired. so right there im over the 1g mark with your suggestion. personally i feel i made a good choice and most cost effective way going this route. eventually im going 351 anyways and will need better heads. Why drop 800, 1000, 1500 dollars on a set of heads im only going to have for a couple years at best?

i really appreciate your input....yours to MJR. i love the feedback i get here. who knows, maybe these will sucks and ill come back and say you were right. but for the money im spending, what im saving and getting out of what ive spent....i think ive gained the most h/p for the the dollar amount.

thanks for lookin out for me Hamutoff. and thanks MJR for the input ill for sure post the outcome when i get them on my car.




however i do have another question. with the heads on there am i over the capacity of 19# injectors???? also does high compression make the car sound any different?