dss pistons and rods?
#11
RE: dss pistons and rods?
ORIGINAL: blk40th
i dont see the point in doing a stroker unless you have an aftermarket block. my reasoning is because if ppl can only push in the mid to upper 300hp range for a 331/347 maybe 400's but at that point y bother. maybe you'll get lucky and itll run forever, but thats a fat chance. ive seen plenty of ppl hitting low 12's or betteron stock stuff, andlow 11's to 10's on 306 with power adders. the only reason for 306 as opposed to staying a 302 is that if the cyl's r going to be honed y not bore and hone. the 347 kits are just as expensive and the machine work is a whole lot more just to haveit allyet in a stock block.
i dont see the point in doing a stroker unless you have an aftermarket block. my reasoning is because if ppl can only push in the mid to upper 300hp range for a 331/347 maybe 400's but at that point y bother. maybe you'll get lucky and itll run forever, but thats a fat chance. ive seen plenty of ppl hitting low 12's or betteron stock stuff, andlow 11's to 10's on 306 with power adders. the only reason for 306 as opposed to staying a 302 is that if the cyl's r going to be honed y not bore and hone. the 347 kits are just as expensive and the machine work is a whole lot more just to haveit allyet in a stock block.
#12
RE: dss pistons and rods?
ORIGINAL: 5spd GT
A 306 is much cheaper than a stroker. I priced it a few years ago.
You do not need a new balancer/flywheel (or remove material for 50 oz. imbalance), and you can reuse your crank ($15 polish) and rods.
Of course, you do not get the power with it.
There has to be a trade-off somewhere.
Budget is very real. Power is very real.
A good buddy of mine has a D.S.S. 342, daily driver with no issues.
So, is perception reality?
A 306 is much cheaper than a stroker. I priced it a few years ago.
You do not need a new balancer/flywheel (or remove material for 50 oz. imbalance), and you can reuse your crank ($15 polish) and rods.
Of course, you do not get the power with it.
There has to be a trade-off somewhere.
Budget is very real. Power is very real.
A good buddy of mine has a D.S.S. 342, daily driver with no issues.
So, is perception reality?
#13
RE: dss pistons and rods?
ok so then if i do a 347 can someone shoot me some part #'s or ideas as to which pistons, rods, crank to use. if i can just get .30 slugs and put them on reconditioned stock rods and polished crank then ill do so. but its all gonna be apart this week, so either way the block is getting done.
#14
RE: dss pistons and rods?
actually nm. the whole reason im not doing a stroker is cuz i dont think the gt40p's enev fully worked will be enough for a 347. and ive already spent a lot of money on them so im not selling them.
#15
RE: dss pistons and rods?
ORIGINAL: mjr46
Not quite........ I've built more 306's than I care to admit and done right they end up costing almost as much as a stroker built comparably....... to redo my 11 to 1 302 that I swapped out for a 347 it was gonna cost 1450.00 for parts and machine work and me doing assembly and checks...for a stroker on my door step 1900.00....not much cheaper for the compromise vs power gain...and I spent 2 months going over every which way possible and cost before making the decision......302 went kaput sept 18....ordered stroker Nov 12 now of course if your talking about going down to autozone and buying a repop reman 700.00 be back next year blowin the blues motor than that's a different thing and your statement would be true
Not quite........ I've built more 306's than I care to admit and done right they end up costing almost as much as a stroker built comparably....... to redo my 11 to 1 302 that I swapped out for a 347 it was gonna cost 1450.00 for parts and machine work and me doing assembly and checks...for a stroker on my door step 1900.00....not much cheaper for the compromise vs power gain...and I spent 2 months going over every which way possible and cost before making the decision......302 went kaput sept 18....ordered stroker Nov 12 now of course if your talking about going down to autozone and buying a repop reman 700.00 be back next year blowin the blues motor than that's a different thing and your statement would be true
It is a no brainer.
I did not have to buy a new flywheel or balancer, which was going to cost ME $500 for the ones I would use.
I also reused my stock rods (no new ones $200), reused the crankshaft (polish is $15), and just had to buy new pistons/bearings. Then assembly cost.
I did not have to buy a crank or rods, nor did I have to have the block clearanced, nor did I have to buy a new flywheel and balancer.
A 306 is cheaper when you use stock parts. Even kit for kit, the 306 is cheaper (no balancer/flywheel needed, or clearancing needed).
I put that extra $800 that I saved on MY build towards something way more important at the time.
An education...
My engine was done by Keith Craft. I went to the shop myself. Keith and Tony are nice guys to talk to.
#17
RE: dss pistons and rods?
yes sorry i do know that you can hit 11's in a 306, ive seen it many times at englishtown. and i figured with the fully forged 306 i shouldnt have any issues with reliability. even with the stock stuff from what you ppl are telling me i shouldnt. and i dont have a flywheel yet cuz the old stocker was junk, but yea if i did then i dont have to buy for 28oz. and THERE IS LESS MACHINE WORK INTO THE BLOCK on a 306 then 347.
#18
RE: dss pistons and rods?
i am by far from an expert even a novice in engine building, but i have read enough and understand the machine process that would be taken to build a good stroker motor. and i personally if iwas building a 347 would have to do an aftermarket block, and the best quality parts, because face it why would u want all those cubes when you could build a stock bottom end chevy and put out well over 500hp. and theres one of those sitting at my machine shop that was just off the dyno
#20
RE: dss pistons and rods?
i understand ur an engine builder..please explain to me how that is so i can further my knowledge on it. because i am per say starting with a bare block at this point. from what i know the 347 has to be notched, the 306 shouldnt, more bore in the 347 (and yes i do know you get additional cubes from the stroke between the crank and different length rods. im not looking for argueement about this i just need to know what route im going to take and start getting the rest of my budget together. i really dont see my heads being capable of supporting a stout 347.