mstngsule68

he means. only check and set it with spout out. then put it back in and leave it. your done. because spout out means base timing no advance and thats how you set timing.

302army187

huh. well that means i had my timing set lower then i thought!


8* was my base.


no one has been able to figure out what happend in the first place.... as far as the back fire.

idk, by the way my gaskets are blown and such, it prob just poped the intake gaskets, and that was all, and thats what made the car not want to run.

302army187

***UPDATE***



this is where im at so far with the tear down.

got a little stuck with these damn fuel rail's.
my tool i bought doesent seem to be helping to much, as these things are STUCK!!

after i get them off, i should have the head's off today.

i dont predict anything wrong with the heads, gaskets, or what ever, but im just replacing the gaskets now, so this doesent happen again. (well at least for a while.

FivePointOhh

those fuel rail disconnectors are a bit finnicky. you just need to push them in and you will feel it push the spring releasing the hold on the fuel rail. then just wrok the two ends apart. it took me a minute or two to get a feel for it the first time i disconnected them.

302army187

i got them off, lower intake is off, valve covers are off.

everythings looking really great, real clean under there, makes me proud, hahaha.


slaped the valve covers back on and called it a day.


in the morning im heading out to a local "you pull" junkyard.

there having a "any cylender head $25 sale" and if i can find some GT40P's for $50 that would be great!

varam03

In your first post in this thread, you mentioned there was about a quart of oil on the ground, usually when you lift the heads on a car, especially when the cooling system hasnt been drained prior, you lose a ton of coolant, not so much oil, could that puddle have been coolant? also, when you re-assemble the motor, research things pertaining to lower intake gasket (especially sealing the front and rear of said gasket) and spend extra time researching setting the #1 piston to TDC to restab the distributor correctly, you don't wanna be ANY teeth off when your spraying...those are the 2 common problems on 5.0 rebuilds IMO, everything else is just bolt torquing...........The oil on the ground after the boom, be sure to check your block when you have the heads off, look down into the lifter valley, etc..an entire quart of oil on the ground within a minute or two doesnt sound like a head gasket to me...sounds like a major oil leak from somewhere on the rotating assembly itself, which might or might not be even related to the nitrous backfire...

302army187

only thing ive seen so far to point the the oil, is the PCV valve it looked like.

the big plastic thing on the back of the lower intake manifold, idk, the lil motorcraft plastic piece thats back there, had poped out.


the "oil" on the ground was oil, but it also looked like some fuel and nitrous was there too, i looked at it after it was on the truck, checked the oil on the ground for shards of metal, ya know and i think i stated there was a 1/2 quart on the ground, it prob wasent even that much now that i think about it really. there was more then i like, but prob just at 1/2 a qt, or a little less


well to be 100% honest, i was un aware of putting the car a TDC before taking out the dizzy, i marked the dizzy to keep the gear strait from where i took it out of the car, so im going to try and put it back to where i had it.

if not ill be fighting it.


yea i noticed the back of the lower intake gasket someone had used WAY WAY WAY WAY to much gasket sealer it was just CAKED on there!

im not sure what to do with the lower intake, but i dident think it was that.


thanks for the advice varam03

302army187

pretty big update.


got the heads off, head gaskets are PERFECT!


went to a local "engine builder"
guy owned his own shop for 10yrs, and and has been doing work non-stop out of his garadge for the last 8yrs.



he tested my valve springs and they where only holding 70lbs!!!!!!



so what we agreed on is new valve springs (110lb-ers) port&polish of the intake bowl, removing the bump out of the exhaust bowl, hes gonna work the valves over to seat better, clean them spotless, and im pretty sure he's going to mill them too.


charging me $300, and is gonna have it to me by THIS MONDAY!!!

needless to say im excitted.

so as soon as thouse are back, ill paint them, im going to paint the AC, and ALT, cleaning the intake spotless, put the heads on using FEL-PRO 1101-2 gaskets, and APR head bolts, all new intake gaskets, ill be upgrading the fuel pump, and getting a new cold air intake(one that pulls air from the fender instead of the engine bay)


my last dyno wasent optimal, car had a pretty bad exhaust leak, and was shifting out of third into 4th at 4300rpm (even though it was in drive)

i managed 216hp and 261trq @4300rpm (so maybe 220hp if it went to 5k rpm)


im hoping with these new mods, and the exhaust leak fixed for atleast 250hp, and 280-300trq (hoping for 320-340hp, 420trq with the 100shot)

what do you guys think?
(bbk cold air intake, stock maf, 70mm throttle body, 70mm egr, pro. products typhoon upper and lower intake, ported stock heads, stock headers, bbk offroad h pipe, flows, underdrive pullies, and weld draglite rims.)