clutch install
#3
RE: clutch install
You could do it in a weekend relatively easily. Its definately not worth what a shop would charge ($300+). I did mine in 3 hours last time but Ive had my tranny out a million times. It probably took me bout 6 hrs. the first time. Just make sure you have everything you need before you start. Clutch alignment tool, pilot bearing, etc. It will save lots of time vs. running to the parts store everytime you need something.
#4
RE: clutch install
so did you guys just put your car up on jack stands and pull the tranny away from the motor? people say you have to pull the tranny and need a lift. But obviously you dont need a lift if you guys did it in a weekend. unless your lucky and have a lift. but when they say pull the tranny do they just mean unbolt it from the engine and pull it back? im 17 years old and my dad could help me do it if its do able. thanks for the help and saving me money.
#5
RE: clutch install
you have to take your tranny out.
when you do the clutch it is a good idea to replace your rear seal too, just for insurance.
you dont want it to blow right after you put everything back together.
when you do the clutch it is a good idea to replace your rear seal too, just for insurance.
you dont want it to blow right after you put everything back together.
#6
RE: clutch install
When you say the rear seal are you talking about some type of gasket that goes between the motor and the tranny? im not familiar with clutches or any of that and have never seen one done.
#7
RE: clutch install
no, the rear seal is a round piece of rubber about 1/4 inch thick and about 3 inches across
when you take off the flywheel (the thing the clutch bolts onto.) to get it resurfaced, under it you will see the crank and between the crank and block there is the rear seal.
it is pretty easy to get out, just be careful you dont nick the crank or it might leak.
when you take off the flywheel (the thing the clutch bolts onto.) to get it resurfaced, under it you will see the crank and between the crank and block there is the rear seal.
it is pretty easy to get out, just be careful you dont nick the crank or it might leak.
#8
RE: clutch install
Since you will be taking out the transmission, not a bad idea to change the transmission fluid over to synthetic. I put Amzoil ATF in mine. I can even hear the gears whine more now in the transmission (sounds kinda cool when you wind up the car). I believe it was about 2.7 quarts or maybe less ( just buy 3 quarts and fill it till it starts to come out the top fill hole).
Get that car up as high as possible. If you can sit up under it, that's perfect. I put mine up 4 cinder blocks high.
Also, you can get a bearing puller from Autozone (MUST have for the pilot bearing/bushing).
It's basically a sliding weight on a rod that let's you yank out the old pilot bearing.
I could have returned it for my money back too, but I kept it cause it such a good tool.
Get that car up as high as possible. If you can sit up under it, that's perfect. I put mine up 4 cinder blocks high.
Also, you can get a bearing puller from Autozone (MUST have for the pilot bearing/bushing).
It's basically a sliding weight on a rod that let's you yank out the old pilot bearing.
I could have returned it for my money back too, but I kept it cause it such a good tool.
#9
RE: clutch install
I have a quick question, I'm looking at a 1995 gt 5.0 and the clutch might be bad. What exactly would I need? If it's just a worn clutch, can I reuse the throwout bearing and all that? If not, what will I need exactly? This would be my first time doing anything this serious. I'm pretty sure I can handle this job I was just looking for some help.