thomascameron

Howdy All -

I just dropped at Ford Racing 5.0 crate motor (http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...KeyField=10005), a Typhoon upper and lower intake (http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS), 24 lb. injectors, 70mm Professional Products throttle body (http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS) & EGR spacer, 76 mm C&L MAF calibrated for 24 lb. injectors (http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS), shorty 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" cat-back pipes and cold air intake into my '89 LX. The stock 5.0 was getting pretty long in the tooth so I figured if I was going to replace it I'd do it right.

When the mechanic put it in he did everything that I've read that you're supposed to do. Made sure the TPS sensor was at 0.95 volt, the variable pressure fuel pump is at 38 at WOT, the MAF sensor is straight up, etc.

Problem is, it surges *really* badly. When I first start it, it tends to surge really badly and then die completely unless I pump the gas. When I put it into gear, it typically stalls. Once it is warm and I can get it started, driving at a constant speed it surges and bucks. It is *really* annoying. I'm driving it this weekend just to make sure there are no leaks or anything, but it's going back into the shop Tuesday for them to try to figure out what the heck is going on.

The C&L MAF housing takes the stock MAF sensor, and my mechanic told me he thinks that it might need an aftermarket MAF sensor instead. The guys at Late Model Restoration, where I bought the parts, swear that the stock sensor is fine.

Anything jump out at anyone? Anything that I should suggest to the mechanic? Something obvious that I've missed?

mjr46

run a koer test and make sure no codes exist before hand and that no vaccum leaks are present and after that maybe try a different maf calibrated for 24's

PRO50SC

You may have to "clock" that C&L meter. They are known for idle issues.

aode08

set your idle higher.

thomascameron

The MAF *is* calibrated for 24s... Are you saying try a different brand than C&L?

thomascameron

That would not address the surging at sustained speeds, would it? It might mask the problem but I don't think it would fix the problem.

thomascameron

What does that mean - to "clock" the meter? I am afraid it's a term with which I am not familiar. :-(

Also, any pointers to where you've seen it that they are known for idle issues? If it's a bad unit or bad technology, I will send it back. It would be nice to be able to point to others having this issue before I do, though.

Thanks!

PRO50SC

Clocking the meter means rotating it bit by bit until you find the "sweet spot" I had a 76mm C&L and I had to do that to have it idle/run right. Wrap a piece of tape around the meter. Then make equally spaced marks on the tape going around the meter. (this is for reference.) Make another mark on the hose that attaches to the meter. Now, little by little, start rotating the meter 1 increment at a time until it runs the best.

thomascameron

Corrected list of the parts I've got in this car:

Throttle body:
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS

EGR Spacer:
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS

Mass Air Meter Kit:
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS

K&N Air Filter:
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS

Headers:
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS

Typhoon Intake:
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS

Engine:
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...KeyField=10005

I'm a little disconcerted that a couple of the articles I've read indicate that the C&L MAF is actually designed for the stock airbox instead of an open element filter. I wonder if that's the issue here?

thomascameron

So just to make clear, you are saying that I might want the MAF sensor to be at some location other than the straight up and down, contrary to what the folks who sold it to me are suggesting? I can certainly try that.

What scale of increments are we talking about? 1mm, 1/4 inch, 1 inch? How far did you have to rotate yours to make it run right?

Also, did you rotate it with the engine running, or did you rotate it, start up and check, kill it then rotate it more?

Thanks!