FivePointOhh

got ford racing gears, new crush sleeve and pinion bearing. going to reuse stock shims because it should just fit. so is that all i need to buy? i'm not going to full rebuild the rear end. i still burn both tires and most of the bearing are new back there anyways from when i tore it apart the first time. if it breaks...oh well my fault.

so all i need is...gears, crush sleeve, and pinion bearing....right?



now for the battery relocation. i'm going to buy the summit relocation kit (not going for looks) and for the switch its the summit 20 continues amps flip switch(http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=SUM-G1432 )....i dont need anything else right? i was going to mount it behind my license plate and shim out the plate so it sits behind the plate.

wildcobrar

You need front and rear pinion bearings and races(cups and cones) you may want to replace your axle seals and get a new pinion seal as well. Don't forget fricyion modifier and new 80W90 fluid and some sealer for the diff cover.

Joe.

FivePointOhh

yea, RTV the cover, axel bearing and seals are only 50 miles old(just replaced them about a month ago)

so you're saying there are two pinion bearings? could you link me to them on summit?

i already have hypoid gear oil so i'm good there too.

FivePointOhh

so with the cut off switch on the battery i just run the positive side to the switch and then straight up to the soilnoid from there? how do you guys route your power wire? under the car? in the car? pics?

mjr46

the stock shims don't always work and give correct settings, I just did a 94 with ford 3.73's and I was able to use the pinion shim but the stock carrier shims gave me a less than desirable backlash setting ....you'll need a dial indicator to check backlash and a inch lbs torque wrench that'll measure rotational drag to set crush / preload on pinion bearings= 2, the one on the pinion , presses on and the one behind the flange seal just sits in place, and I'd have marking compound handy to run the pattern afterwards to see where the wear pattern falls, cause if it has low toe on the coast and high heel on the drive side you'll need to know to add shim or vise versa if it's opposite

FivePointOhh

i have my neighbor helping me, he's done this a lot. but i'll just get the rebuild kit for the shims and bearings. i didnt want to have to buy it but it doesnt cost that much more than buying the other parts individually. plus i'd have new axle bearings and seals just incase i ever blow them out.

do you know about hte battery question though? how do you route the power wire? i always did my car auido systems inside the car, not sure if it really matters in this case.

mjr46

I ran my power wire from the battery to the switch then on the other side of the switch ran that wire under the carpet through the firewall and up to the selonoid

FivePointOhh

perfect! just what i thought but i wasnt sure how most people do it. a guy i work with ran his under the car alone his frame rail by his sub frame connectors and up to the solonoid. i like your way better!

mjr46

I'd rather it not catch on any road kill!!! and all you need to do is run the alternator charge wire to the always hot side of the selonoid where you connect the 12 v power wire from battery

FivePointOhh

ok so i have the 3 g alt upgrade so it'd look something like this?