Cooking it down
#1
Cooking it down
ok guys, after i get my car running right lol im planing on replacing the whole cooling system. meaning pump, t-state, radiator, and going to an electic fan. question is are the $200 all aluminum ons on ebay worth the money. they say they cool up to 750-800hp. also if i put a fan in my car would it be ok to run a direct hot wire to it meaning it would always be on when the key is turned of course.
#3
I have a Fluidyne in my car and it cools well. I also have a Mark 8 fan and flex-a-lite controller. I'm very happy with the fluidyne and fan controller, but the Mark 8 fan was just way too much work to make fit with the fluidyne. It's VERY thick. If I had it to do over again, I would go with dual 10" fans.
fyi - I had to take 5/8" out of the Mark 8 shroud and shorten my radiator brackets 1/4" to make it clear the water pump by 1/8-1/16". It doesn't hit, but I have prothane motor and transmission mounts as well as solid aluminum tranny crossmember bushings, so my drivetrain mounting is a bit stiffer than stock.
fyi - I had to take 5/8" out of the Mark 8 shroud and shorten my radiator brackets 1/4" to make it clear the water pump by 1/8-1/16". It doesn't hit, but I have prothane motor and transmission mounts as well as solid aluminum tranny crossmember bushings, so my drivetrain mounting is a bit stiffer than stock.
#4
how does that work and were does it hook up at. ALso whats the best fan for the buck, iv found 16" on from a ford taurus or what ever it was for like 75 bucks shipped, it says its a two speed fan, would that work and hook up to the temp sensor
#5
#9
#10
I am running a Fluidyne controller w/ a taurus fan hooked up to a painless wiring switch panel for high and low in the ashtray. Setup works flawlessly. I was going to run a SPAL controller so it automatically switched from high to low, etc. but it was too much of a pain in the *** and something was wrong with my controller. I have heard many good things about DCC.