Decent Suspension Kits For 90' 5.0 - looking for input and advice -
10-09-2008, 12:46 PM
#41
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I've read about 75% of the threads, so if this was addressed previosly, I apologize. I don't remember reading what you budget is, but I bought, and installed, the Maximum Motorsports Road and Track box with some Eibach sway bars and the handling is tremendous. VERY good instructions on EVERYTHING you get. I don't think I could own another fox body without this kit installed. You could piece that suspension together via other means and save a $100 or so dollars, but it won't be quite the same. I also left my quad shocks out since they do affect suspension travel a bit. If one quad shock compresses, or decompresses, easier than the other side, the rear end rises or settles at a different rate, side to side. Good info in here, but I would buy an entire package from 1 place. I researched quite a bit before I did this because 2-3K...spare, is hard to come by.
But by the time i do upper lowers ( for sure ) i am gonig to want to do spring and shocks.
It will be pricey. I may even drop the rear end out blast it and then replace it just to add an extra touch.
10-09-2008, 12:55 PM
#42
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I've read about 75% of the threads, so if this was addressed previosly, I apologize. I don't remember reading what you budget is, but I bought, and installed, the Maximum Motorsports Road and Track box with some Eibach sway bars and the handling is tremendous. VERY good instructions on EVERYTHING you get. I don't think I could own another fox body without this kit installed. You could piece that suspension together via other means and save a $100 or so dollars, but it won't be quite the same. I also left my quad shocks out since they do affect suspension travel a bit. If one quad shock compresses, or decompresses, easier than the other side, the rear end rises or settles at a different rate, side to side. Good info in here, but I would buy an entire package from 1 place. I researched quite a bit before I did this because 2-3K...spare, is hard to come by.
but that is a very expensive kit and you may be able to out handle me in the corners but i dont see you cuttin 60' times that much faster if at all to justify spending more 1-2k more than me. all my suspension parts ran me 1100 ish. and that gives me room for sticky tires, TQ box reinforcements and gears and still under 1700 bucks which your kit doesnt include. for most people those parts included in the MM kit arent even needed for the average street racer. even mine is a bit overkill/expensive for yoru average street racer and my suspension is still far from being tricked out. i think anyone can peice together a kit that will do just what they want just as well if not better for less than the MM kit. i could still upgrade my K member and A arms and still be under that budget.
personally i think what he has in his mind will work for him and he can stay under 800 bucks. he can always expand later if required but he'll need a lot beefier motor to overpower this very basic set up we talekd about earlier in this thread.
Last edited by FivePointOhh; 10-09-2008 at 01:01 PM.
10-09-2008, 01:03 PM
#43
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Georgia
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Yes, it is. I bought the car last October for $4100, all original. I had planned on keeping that way. I didn't like how loose that car felt compared to the SVO (stock suspension) or my Mark VIII (after market suspension) so I got to looking. I had only intended on putting about $1000 into the suspension, but by the time I did individual part pricing, I was near $1800! So the leap of another $300 to get parts that I hadn't even considered didn't seem that bad. It was the sway bars, MM brake upgrade kit and a new set of Kuhmo's that put it up there. I was lucky enough to have bought a new Flaming River power steering rack 3 years ago, so I didn't have that expense this time around. So, I think I have about $5000 in my $4100 car! That will be an issue if I wreck the car!!!
10-09-2008, 01:09 PM
#44
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fivepointohh - My street drag racing and even at the track drag racing days are over. I did that 20 years ago. I'm into VERY tight handling and going to add the torque arm this spring so I can run at Road Atlanta in the PDX series a few times. I would NEVER buy this kind of suspension for any straight line racing or aggressive street racing. I was under the impression that he wasn't a drag racer at one point, that is the only reason I suggested this type of kit. It's very nice on the streets.
10-09-2008, 09:35 PM
#45
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Alright guys thanks, i am reading over some tech articles and such to figure out my task at hand.
What would you reccomend for shocks and springs?
And when upgrading shocks spring and upper/lower, is there anything else i should look at? Or anything else that should be replace to get the full effect?
And best change for my dollar'?
What would you reccomend for shocks and springs?
And when upgrading shocks spring and upper/lower, is there anything else i should look at? Or anything else that should be replace to get the full effect?
And best change for my dollar'?
10-09-2008, 10:48 PM
#46
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new spring isolators are a must.
start hittin your bolts with PB blaster now so when you get ready to take your bolts off its 1000000x easier. i basically had to heat mine red hot to get mine off thats how bad it was. and i had to cut off my control arm bolts because the metal inner sleeve rusted to the bolt itself.
you want adjustability or just ease of standard products with some quality? depends on whats in your future, cost vs expectations?
start hittin your bolts with PB blaster now so when you get ready to take your bolts off its 1000000x easier. i basically had to heat mine red hot to get mine off thats how bad it was. and i had to cut off my control arm bolts because the metal inner sleeve rusted to the bolt itself.
you want adjustability or just ease of standard products with some quality? depends on whats in your future, cost vs expectations?
10-09-2008, 10:56 PM
#47
quad shocks were simply a band-aid fix to make up for the travel of the rear axle due to ford using cheaper stamped steel control arms...
10-09-2008, 11:31 PM
#48
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new spring isolators are a must.
start hittin your bolts with PB blaster now so when you get ready to take your bolts off its 1000000x easier. i basically had to heat mine red hot to get mine off thats how bad it was. and i had to cut off my control arm bolts because the metal inner sleeve rusted to the bolt itself.
you want adjustability or just ease of standard products with some quality? depends on whats in your future, cost vs expectations?
start hittin your bolts with PB blaster now so when you get ready to take your bolts off its 1000000x easier. i basically had to heat mine red hot to get mine off thats how bad it was. and i had to cut off my control arm bolts because the metal inner sleeve rusted to the bolt itself.
you want adjustability or just ease of standard products with some quality? depends on whats in your future, cost vs expectations?
Thats why i am kind of thinking about donig all the major parts.
I dont want to spend 300 on upper and lowers and still have the same ride eeling due to the shocks and springs. I dont want any limitations like that. .
But if its worth the cash, with in reason i am game.
10-10-2008, 08:42 AM
#49
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Also, how do you classify a good set of upper and lower arms? Like whats so differant from this kit here ( other then the fact that its not adjustable? )
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS
I cant differentiate other then the bushings?
I have no problem paying an extra 100 bucks, but what is the gain?
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS
I cant differentiate other then the bushings?
I have no problem paying an extra 100 bucks, but what is the gain?
10-10-2008, 08:53 AM
#50
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Georgia
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start hittin your bolts with PB blaster now so when you get ready to take your bolts off its 1000000x easier. i basically had to heat mine red hot to get mine off thats how bad it was. and i had to cut off my control arm bolts because the metal inner sleeve rusted to the bolt itself.