Rust hole in my frame????
#12
i would for sure do as mjr says, the heating of the frame is going to weakin it probly wont be noticable but any extra support will help, plus you need to get all the cancer out cause that crap speads quick. ALso kiltz makes this amazing paint that kills rust, called hammerite, its actually for like pipe and rod iron but it works amazing, and you can get it in a rattle can, i wold advise you to paint it with something like that and get in the frame and paint the back side as well, if possible
#13
yea im gonna go buy an air compressor and cut off wheel today. i bought a primer from rustolem it says for heavily rusted metal. i dont care about the quad shock mounts then. thats what i thought they were though.
#14
as far as support you should be ok as long as you cut one side at a time and stay on the side were the rust is, i wouldnt cut around or on the bottom of the fram unless you have to then i would do one side of the fram at a time, you know like cut it out weld the peice in then the support peice, then move to the bottom, its just my opinion
#16
cant say never tried it, i would just recommend cleaning the area real good, atleast strip about 4 to 6 inches away from the expected welds were the cap support peice is going. clean with some brake cleaner or anything close to that and just coat the bare metal with 4 or 5 coats. it might be overdueing it but its better to overdue than the problem coming back, but the rustolem paint should work fine
#17
thats not bad, fix it asap and that other spot on your floorboard too.
POR it, then use undercoat with zinc, . The Undercoat will always be like a ruff tar/oilish on the metal compared to DRY/WATER ABSORBANT primer.
Some primers have zinc, but our frame tech only uses POR, then the undercoat with Zinc, it really rocks !
Congrats on the fabrication skills, I wish I can weld better, still learning.
POR it, then use undercoat with zinc, . The Undercoat will always be like a ruff tar/oilish on the metal compared to DRY/WATER ABSORBANT primer.
Some primers have zinc, but our frame tech only uses POR, then the undercoat with Zinc, it really rocks !
Congrats on the fabrication skills, I wish I can weld better, still learning.
#18
im going 2 use the primer then use some tipe of paint. i dont plan on just leaving primer. i am going to top it all of with a sound deadener from second skin auto. i was going to use eastwood rust encapsulant paint but its 150/gal. as for fabrication skills lol i have never done this b4 so its not going to turn out the best but im still actually excited to do it.
#19
not so excited anymore
ok so i got the 4banger pulled. then decided to pull the inner fenderwells and it got ugly. the p/s is very bad by the door. the d/s is bad at the shock tower seam, and the body seam by the door. these first 3 are the d/s
#20
these are the p/s. i did not take the fender off the d/s yet but it looks ok above the shock tower. the frame rails all look ok. please some advice on how to fix it would be great. i am no expert but am willing to learn this fix very quickly. PLEASE DONT SAY JUNK THE CAR, im tired of junking these mustangs. (well ive only had one other one)