auto vs manual
10-09-2008, 10:44 AM
#23
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: colorado
Posts: 6,395
stock stall's are rated at 1500rpm's i think.
(or around there)
even with my mickey thompson tire's, the highest i can power brake the car before it start's spinning is 1500rpm.
with an aftermarket stall you can rev higher, but stall's will KILL your aod, they build up alot of heat, and aod's are horrible at handling any heat
(or around there)
even with my mickey thompson tire's, the highest i can power brake the car before it start's spinning is 1500rpm.
with an aftermarket stall you can rev higher, but stall's will KILL your aod, they build up alot of heat, and aod's are horrible at handling any heat
10-09-2008, 12:05 PM
#24
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: United States
Posts: 3,451
If I were racing from a stoplight I would want a built auto, if i were racing from a 60mph roll, i'd want the 5 spd. I absolutely hate stock autos, they are junk imo. A built auto on the otherhand is a different story alltogether. I would pick an auto with a 3500 stall & manual valve body (obviously the trans cooler aswell so the trans doesnt die fast) over a 5 speed if I were going to race people on the street, without the stall, i'd pick the manual. I personally was impressed with a friends car when he did a swap from a t5 to a built c4 with a 3800 stall, he dropped a full second off of his strip time, he took off fairly well & shifted quick with the t5. He lost 14whp from the swap.
If I were going to impress someone i'd want the built auto, if i were wanting to feel more in control of the car i'd want the manual. I've swapped my transmission in my car about 7 times, not because the transmission was bad, because I prefer driving with one at certain times, I get used to the built auto, i swap to the t5, i get used to the t5 i swap to the built auto. I felt that the t5 was more fun to drive with 4.10's, but the built auto was faster at the track, without the stall it was slower.
As for your band wearing out; When you shift back to 1 the od band engages, if you're immediately going back down it's engaging the od band during the shift which means instead of the clutches slipping & taking the force, the od band does.. Engaging the od band while it's in a gear is perfectly fine, engaging it during a shift especially on the slow shifting stock aod you'll wear the band out very quickly. So when shifting it's best to leave in in 1, when you shift to 2nd push the shifter into D & hold it there until the shift is completed, then go back down to 1 (which will then engage the band)
Yes a stall will kill your auto if you don't have a trans cooler. Most people when building an auto, the first thing they do is get a trans cooler. If you don't the trans fluid temp will go way up from the stall slipping & the glue holding the friction material on the clutches will come off. If you're looking for durability I would suggest the first two things you do would be a shift kit & a trans cooler. You don't even have to go out to buy an expensive one, you could just go to a junkyard & get one off of an auto out there. I ran one from a van with a pretty good size stall with zero problems, even used it as a daily driver.
If I were going to impress someone i'd want the built auto, if i were wanting to feel more in control of the car i'd want the manual. I've swapped my transmission in my car about 7 times, not because the transmission was bad, because I prefer driving with one at certain times, I get used to the built auto, i swap to the t5, i get used to the t5 i swap to the built auto. I felt that the t5 was more fun to drive with 4.10's, but the built auto was faster at the track, without the stall it was slower.
As for your band wearing out; When you shift back to 1 the od band engages, if you're immediately going back down it's engaging the od band during the shift which means instead of the clutches slipping & taking the force, the od band does.. Engaging the od band while it's in a gear is perfectly fine, engaging it during a shift especially on the slow shifting stock aod you'll wear the band out very quickly. So when shifting it's best to leave in in 1, when you shift to 2nd push the shifter into D & hold it there until the shift is completed, then go back down to 1 (which will then engage the band)
Yes a stall will kill your auto if you don't have a trans cooler. Most people when building an auto, the first thing they do is get a trans cooler. If you don't the trans fluid temp will go way up from the stall slipping & the glue holding the friction material on the clutches will come off. If you're looking for durability I would suggest the first two things you do would be a shift kit & a trans cooler. You don't even have to go out to buy an expensive one, you could just go to a junkyard & get one off of an auto out there. I ran one from a van with a pretty good size stall with zero problems, even used it as a daily driver.
10-10-2008, 06:49 AM
#26
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: colorado
Posts: 6,395
FoxGT, i got some interesting result's at my dyno yesterday, id like to send you the thread i will type up later today, and i hope you can help me with the problem's that arrised.
just a little "teaser".
when i got my nitrous backfire, and tore down the engine, i had the head's tested, and found that i had 2 bent intake valves, all my exhaust valves where pitted, and my valve springs where only holding 70 lb's.
after paying someone to clean the heads, mild port and polish, replace all exhaust valves, the 2 intake valves, and put in comp cam's 110lb performance spring's, i only gained 3hp and 2trq over my old numbers n/a (and i also had a pretty bad exhaust leak that i fixed sence the last dyno)
also a 150shot of nitrous, wet kit, with good a/f ratio, only gained 96hp and 135trq.
ill send you a link to the thread ill be writing later today.
thanks.
just a little "teaser".
when i got my nitrous backfire, and tore down the engine, i had the head's tested, and found that i had 2 bent intake valves, all my exhaust valves where pitted, and my valve springs where only holding 70 lb's.
after paying someone to clean the heads, mild port and polish, replace all exhaust valves, the 2 intake valves, and put in comp cam's 110lb performance spring's, i only gained 3hp and 2trq over my old numbers n/a (and i also had a pretty bad exhaust leak that i fixed sence the last dyno)
also a 150shot of nitrous, wet kit, with good a/f ratio, only gained 96hp and 135trq.
ill send you a link to the thread ill be writing later today.
thanks.
