86HOGT

It's not just washers that you would need. I think ball joints were like $50 for the pair at any parts store.

Thanks, I have a lot of time into her.

IRoman

If I replace the ball joints, will I need anything else? Did you do anything special to make sure you had all the bolts you need? I was kinda hoping the bolts in the conversion I have now would cut it, but I dont want to take things apart hoping I have the right bolts.

Here is my part list, and what I have so far

Front w/Cobra PBRs:
13" cobra rotors (2)
cobra PBR calipers (2)
cobra caliper brackets (2)
caliper pins (2) -- I have 2 calipers pins in my conversion, they maybe the right ones
spindle to caliper bracket bolts (4): N805163-S190
1994+ spindles (2)
Hubs (2)
hub nut(2)
dust cap(2)
dust shields (2)
SS brake lines designed for conversion - or - SN95 brake lines with Adapter
Balljoint spacer or stack of 3 washers totaling .330" in height or press in Sn95 balljoints to the stock arms (MOOG brand) -- 86HOGT, Did you have to press them in?
Banjo/caliper bolts (2) 10mm x 1.0 thread -- I shouldnt need these since I ordered the converted brake lines right?

IRoman

Edited my UPS Rant....No need.

For anyone ordering anything from Maximum Motorsports, make sure you tell them no signature required for delieveries unless you want it. I guess they automatically do it, and thats good except UPS stops delievering at 5pm, When most people get off work.

86HOGT

Yes, the ball joints will have to be pressed in. I even did that myself in the garage. Presses right in and bolts to the knuckle.

You may have to grind the 94-95 spindles to fit the larger brake caliper I believe. That's also why I went with 96+ spindles. There's more material on the 94-95 spindles in the caliper area I'm thinking...

I'm sure that I used my strut to knuckle bolts.

absolutbspec

Nothing is wrong with the 94-95 spindles. Im pretty sure you cant have the dust shield on but that might just be with the baer sport brakes i have.



Maximum motorsports only requires signature over a certain amount. Ive ordered tons for them.

You dont need the bump steer if you have adjustable caster/camber plates. That will get the car to the right setup.My buddy managed to align everything perfect. Hadnt had one instance where the car has seemed to steer it self yet.

IRoman

I finally finished up this project. To date, I probably have about 1k in my brakes. I originally intended to stay under $500, and then $800 but with my decision to powder coat the calipers, and the additional tools I needed, I spent about 1k to do this, and I still have a couple of other expenses in front of me.



During this whole process of putting things together, I learned about stuff I needed and stuff I didnt need. If anyone uses my thread as a guideline for their swap, I'd be willing to bet there will be certain things that your swap will need that was different from my swap.

Here is my car getting ready to have the install



and here are the old brakes



Removing all the old parts were pretty straight forward. I removed the calipers, and then removed the brake line from the caliper. Next I removed the rotors, and then unbolted the spindle from the shocks. My brake lines were a serious pain in the butt, so I removed the shock to get a better grip on the line



Here is the pic with the new line installed and the shock out of the way. The shock only had three standard bolts holding it in place once the spindle was removed



The mess is WD40

I unbolted the control arms from the sway bar to help lower them. I also unbolted the Steering arms.



Now everything is removed. I didn't take any pictures of everything removed.

I preloaded my Spindles with my Hubs, Rotors, Calipers, Caliper brackets and brake pads.





When I installed the loaded spindles, I ran into 1 small problem. Where the 95 Spindles bolt into the Shock, there is a 1/4 inch gap. The spindle is smaller than the gap. The previous spindles filled the gap. I had to use washers to make up for the gap. I would recommend having washers on hand in case you run into the same problem.

So now after bolting the spindle all the way back up (2 shock bolts, Lower ball joint, and steering arm, and brake lines) )

I basically had this:


{minus the old brake line (this was just to test the fit of the loaded spindle before I changed the brake line}

--------

Once I had everything bolted up, and had my brakes bled, I put my wheels on and noticed another small problem, my wheels were totally pigeoned toed.

When I had the spindles off, I should have loosing the steering arms to adjust them after I put the wheels back on

I had to adjust the steering arms with the spindles bolted on which made a fun time.



After adjusting my steering to the best of my ability, I was able to put the wheels back on, take the car off the jacks and call it a day.





During my research of all of this, I read that I was going to have to grind the spindles to accommodate for the calipers. I never had to grind anything and my spindles came off a 95 V6 mustang.

Also, I need to get an alignment now. I will be doing that shortly

For now, I have noticed a huge improvement in my cars breaking abilities.

ewgoetz

Ya should of gotten a kit that included stainless steel hose for the rear as well.

IRoman

My next project for this car is finding out what rear end I have (It was changed and I dont know what went in, or what gears I have) and then converting brakes on it. I have drums now and I want to convert them before I get SS brake lines for them

IRoman

So its been several years since I have done this swap. Everything has worked out great, and I have had no issues. I have been very happy with my decision to do this swap.

Last week, I broke something in my rear end, and as it turns out, a local speed shop (Fastlane Motorsports--awesome shop) had a rear end that I couldn't pass up.

For $1k, I picked up a rear end with 31 spline moser axles, C clip eliminators, traction lok, my choice of new gears (I picked 3.31's for highway driving) and 13" disc brakes. The rotors are from a 2005 3v Steeda and the calipers are from a 95-04 GT.



Minus the actual brake lines, I believe I have ordered everything I need. As it comes in, I will list everything I have before I start the swap, and then I will write up how the swap goes.

Also, for those of you experienced with this swap, and realize I shouldnt have GT calipers and 13" rotors--This axle came with custom caliper brackets, Ill explain that more in future posts

IRoman

Here is the list of suspension parts I am using for this swap

Koni Quad shock - KON-25-1215 $240 (for the pair)
Koni Rear shock - KON-8050-1033 $130 (each)
Summit 1" rear sway bar - SUM-720222 $150
Summit Upper and lower Control arms SUM-720222 - $160



Since I will be pulling all of the rear suspension when I drop the axle, I decided to replace most of it. I didnt get the most performance related parts because they are expensive and I already have about $2500 in this swap.

I went with the Koni's after reading about them on them on stang suspension.

I didnt go with adjustable control arms because they arent needed until your over 400rwhp. The Summit ones will do exactly what I need them to do. They will replace the factory ones that flex under pressure. These wont flex, and will be a good upgrade to the car.

Im not sure how I feel about the summit rear sway bar yet. The factory sway bar is 3/4" thick, the summit one is 1" thick. My only concern is I have read in a few different places that people have broken summit sway bars and blamed summit for the steel used to make the sway bars. With that being said, the sway bar I purchased is made with 4140 chromoly spring steel--chromoly steel is sought after in the rock crawling community for making roll cages. Time will tell how the bar holds up.