Installed 80mm Mass Air System
10-12-2008, 08:23 AM
#11
The Rogue Mod
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland Sucka's!!
Posts: 21,918
Def w/ dudeboy on this one!!
Yeah, I am wondering the same thing. Not only that, but an 80mm mass air is too large for a stock motor. Plus it needs the calibrated injectors to go w/ it. No wonder it runs worse. WTF mate?
10-12-2008, 08:57 AM
#13
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Washington, Seattle
Posts: 551
Try running the codes using this procedure...
DIY KOEO/KOER self tests
(the scanners aren't required)
While I don't think the 80mm is really going to gain any power,
If properly 'calibrated' it shouldn't cause any problems either...
DIY KOEO/KOER self tests
(the scanners aren't required)
While I don't think the 80mm is really going to gain any power,
If properly 'calibrated' it shouldn't cause any problems either...
10-12-2008, 09:10 AM
#14
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Washington, Seattle
Posts: 551
MAC meters are actually produced by C&L.
This means a couple of parts should be checked to make sure you have the correct 'calibration' for your setup.
ECU? (pull the kick panel from the passenger side, and you should see a sticker on the ecu... A9L, A9P, A3M, A3M1 s/b on there)
Part Number on your stock MAS (s/b F1ZF-****, or similar)
Diameter of the Sample Tube, mounted inside the 80mm housing. (you will need to remove it, and measure with calipers, both the inlet and outlet ends)
With those 3 pieces of info, we can say that you have the right meter, without ANY question.
Where did you buy the MAF meter? Was it NEW?
This means a couple of parts should be checked to make sure you have the correct 'calibration' for your setup.
ECU? (pull the kick panel from the passenger side, and you should see a sticker on the ecu... A9L, A9P, A3M, A3M1 s/b on there)
Part Number on your stock MAS (s/b F1ZF-****, or similar)
Diameter of the Sample Tube, mounted inside the 80mm housing. (you will need to remove it, and measure with calipers, both the inlet and outlet ends)
With those 3 pieces of info, we can say that you have the right meter, without ANY question.
Where did you buy the MAF meter? Was it NEW?
Thats why I come here for advice.
10-12-2008, 01:34 PM
#16
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,424
this is retarded, why in the hell would anyone tell someone to creat a vac leak to make it run better. more than likely your car has always ran like crap "because somewhere you have a vac leak".
my advice is that you try a stock mass air replacement if you beileve the maf is bad. heres the list to go thru:
IAC=idle air control
TPS=throttle position sensor
MAF/mass air meter
ACT= air charge temp sensor
all of these can make the car idle funny if they are out of sink.a vac leak for sure will make it run funny. intake leak too. if it was me i would replace every sensor on the car period then if that wasnt the case i would be looking to see if i had a intake leak of some kind.
but first anf formost DO NOT DISCONNECT ANY VAC LINES ! BUT CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HAVE A VAC LEAK!!!!
as far as how to check for a leak the search feature is your best bet on here or maybe someone feels like going into the specifics.
and check your fuel filter too!!
my advice is that you try a stock mass air replacement if you beileve the maf is bad. heres the list to go thru:
IAC=idle air control
TPS=throttle position sensor
MAF/mass air meter
ACT= air charge temp sensor
all of these can make the car idle funny if they are out of sink.a vac leak for sure will make it run funny. intake leak too. if it was me i would replace every sensor on the car period then if that wasnt the case i would be looking to see if i had a intake leak of some kind.
but first anf formost DO NOT DISCONNECT ANY VAC LINES ! BUT CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HAVE A VAC LEAK!!!!
as far as how to check for a leak the search feature is your best bet on here or maybe someone feels like going into the specifics.
and check your fuel filter too!!
10-12-2008, 02:09 PM
#17
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Washington, Seattle
Posts: 551
You would replace all your sensors, with out checking for diagnostic codes first.
Then if that didn't work, you would start looking for a vac leak?
I hate to say it, but you'd be doing it the expensive and slow way! LOL
The ecu is designed to give you clues into what the motor is actually doing. Why not take advantage of that?
Pull the Diagnostic Codes first!
(Personally, I run codes on my cars at every oil changes, even if the car seems to be running fine. It is FREE and only take a few minutes.)
Randomly replacing sensors is a waste of money.
Checking codes and checking for vac leaks is easy and free. Why is there so much resistance to doing these 2 things?
10-12-2008, 02:23 PM
#18
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,424
Whoa!!!!
You would replace all your sensors, with out checking for diagnostic codes first.
Then if that didn't work, you would start looking for a vac leak?
I hate to say it, but you'd be doing it the expensive and slow way! LOL
The ecu is designed to give you clues into what the motor is actually doing. Why not take advantage of that?
Pull the Diagnostic Codes first!
(Personally, I run codes on my cars at every oil changes, even if the car seems to be running fine. It is FREE and only take a few minutes.)
Randomly replacing sensors is a waste of money.
Checking codes and checking for vac leaks is easy and free. Why is there so much resistance to doing these 2 things?
You would replace all your sensors, with out checking for diagnostic codes first.
Then if that didn't work, you would start looking for a vac leak?
I hate to say it, but you'd be doing it the expensive and slow way! LOL
The ecu is designed to give you clues into what the motor is actually doing. Why not take advantage of that?
Pull the Diagnostic Codes first!
(Personally, I run codes on my cars at every oil changes, even if the car seems to be running fine. It is FREE and only take a few minutes.)
Randomly replacing sensors is a waste of money.
Checking codes and checking for vac leaks is easy and free. Why is there so much resistance to doing these 2 things?
10-12-2008, 02:28 PM
#19
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 889
Sorry fellas for any wrong advice I may give. Ive had my car for 11years and I know a few tricks here and there. If you give our cars a small vacuum leak in some cases it will idle better. Ive found when the idle goes from 500rpm-2000rpm that vacuum leak will sometimes fix the idle. I dont have a vacuum leak on my car now but if the idle goes bad I give it one then find the problem. i try to give the best advice I can based on my experience, but sometimes not everyone agree.
10-13-2008, 12:12 AM
#20
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Washington, Seattle
Posts: 551
Sorry fellas for any wrong advice I may give. Ive had my car for 11years and I know a few tricks here and there. If you give our cars a small vacuum leak in some cases it will idle better. Ive found when the idle goes from 500rpm-2000rpm that vacuum leak will sometimes fix the idle. I dont have a vacuum leak on my car now but if the idle goes bad I give it one then find the problem. i try to give the best advice I can based on my experience, but sometimes not everyone agree.