FuzzyDiceRule

Okay, james and i got the engine out of the donor car last night, and its down to the block (still has timing cover and smog pump on it) heres where my questions start

he is buying this engine rebuild kit. It comes with bearings, new pistons, rings, and gaskets, etc

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

i would like to know EVERYTHING i need to know to do this in my garage, i have tools, no need to worry about that, i remember something about explosive needing to get the rods machined for the bearings, stuff like that.


i would like to know everything to look out for, torque specs, anything else we should get etc

thanks for your help guys, i appreciate it

Night Terror

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/649.shtml

its for a 94 5.0 but im sure its all teh same...

also before oyu throw the new bearings on the crank.. i would take 400grit sand paper and some wd-40 and polish them.

jtmustang

well the rods part the machine shop will take care of, as the block should be taken to the shop with new pistons , rings,balancer,flywheel/flexplate,crank,rods,and bearings so they can do the necessary machine work, and then balance the motor to the the new pistons. then u can assemble at home yourself .

you will need the usual tools, plus a good torque wrench,pry bars,moly lube,thread sealer,thread locker,little can of oil,rtv,

after that yes the torque specs and u can find those all over and then some kind of manual, or good mechanically inclined friends and then lots of patients and attention to detail,

dont forget to throw some rubber hose or something on the rod bolts when installing the rods onto the crank i learned the hard way years ago on a 390 and scratched the crank and had to have it polished out again.

so is this a stock rebuild as far as heads,cam and such?

FuzzyDiceRule

thanks for the replys

more or less, if he has the money, it will probably get a gt40 intake and an E303, maybe port the heads or get Gt40's, but nothing major

woodsy

ya thats the last thing you want to do, do NOT do this.

jtmustang

as i was gonna say the same wtf would u do that for ?

capri debris

Night Terror is correct about the 400 grit. I scanned a page out of the best engine building book I own so you can see it's not BS or harmful to do this to a crank.



And Fuzzy, if your new pistons came with bolts already on them (which they should have) you don't need to have the big end machined. Explosive had to have his machined because he changed the bolts and that throws off the center line just a little bit. I recommend getting a good engine rebuilding book and reading it cover to cover and hi-lighting the important parts so you can refer back when you're building the engine. It's all the little stuff that you need to pay attention to, like where to put sealant on the front and rear main seals, sealing the lower head bolts because they thread into the water jacket, torque sequences, checking ring end gap, plastigauging the crank and rod bearings, PTV clearance... stuff like that. Look back over the engine build part of my Capri thread to help you out... that's why I posted it all up on this site... to help guys like you do their first engine. Good luck and if ya' have any questions, PM me. Just remember I'm only home on the weekends, so give me time to respond back to a question.

woodsy

Might want to make it more clear next time, but either way if the crank is going to be reground, and your crank grinder is any good, DO NOT attempt to polish the journals by hand.

mjr46

i've done the ole emery cloth trick more than once on 100k motors......last one was a 89 grang marquis roller block...guy got 3 years and 400+ passes out of it at the drag strip...weekend bracket racer....it finally lost oil pressure but hey there are no gaurantees in racing

NYMustang50

emery cloth not just plain old sand paper.. So then i would do it but if you said it was just normal or wet sand paper i wouldn't but since the book confirms emery cloth then it doesn't sound such a bad idea after all.