problem compressing brake pistons on 95 cobra?
#11
ok cool. thanks for all the help. I finished it yesterday. For some reason I could read the replys but I couldn't respond.
I did the front and rear and went great other than them having a small chirping but I'm not sure what it is. I think it could be that I didn't use anti squeel because no where was open and I needed to finish. Just to make sure I'm supposed to put the anti squeel on the back of the pads right?
I did the front and rear and went great other than them having a small chirping but I'm not sure what it is. I think it could be that I didn't use anti squeel because no where was open and I needed to finish. Just to make sure I'm supposed to put the anti squeel on the back of the pads right?
#14
If you had a warped rotor you would feel it in the steering wheel and/or in the break pedal. they recommend that you put anti squeal on the contact points where the pad meets the caliper( like mentioned above). What i usually do is when i buy pads and the edges are not beveled i put a small bevel on them. i have had new pads squeal on me after install and i would remove and put bevel on then they wouldn't squeal anymore. it is also possible that when you installed you got some grime on the pads. always a good idea to spray break clean on pads wile on caliper b4 install, and avoid touching pads b4 mounted on rotor. hope this helps
#15
thanks for all the info but I'm still having problems with the brake kicking back the pedal. I think it could be because theres a couple small cracks in the front rotors. is there anyway I can make sure it is from that? It does it about 30 feet before stopping and usually kicks out the pedal a couple times. I don't know It's startin to scare me I don't want to be goin along and have the front tires lock up or anything. I'm thinking of just going with some stock rotors but what else could it be if it doesn't go away?
#16
If you say the break pedal is kicking back when you press the pedal, then the only thing i can think of is your rotors are warped. You also mentioned that the rotors have small cracks in them? if that is true, you want to replace them anyways. The brakes generate a lot of heat when applied. if the rotors are cracked then the rotors will warp even more resulting in less life of pads and constant kicking of the pedal. As far as if there is any other ways to verify that the rotors are warped, i can only think of either putting them on a brake laith or there is a gauge tool you can mount to the caliper mount and test to see if it is warped( cannot remember what tool name is) hope this helps
#19
Anymore it is cheaper to just replace them. do they still turn them? there are 5 garages around me and they don't turn rotors anymore..lol it would be better to put a little extra coin in and buy drill/slotted rotors anyways.
#20
I just took mine out into the driveway and rubbed them on the concrete for a while. Worked great!
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Ok, if you thought I was serious, you should probably have some coffee and slap yourself for being so gullible. LOL!
Cracked rotors will toast new brake pads in short order, and could break and get you killed. Oh, and then there is that nasty inconvience of having the brake pedal kick out a little bit.
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Ok, if you thought I was serious, you should probably have some coffee and slap yourself for being so gullible. LOL!
Cracked rotors will toast new brake pads in short order, and could break and get you killed. Oh, and then there is that nasty inconvience of having the brake pedal kick out a little bit.