Putting a 70 302 in my car.
11-17-2008, 07:39 PM
#24
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
I grounded the signal wire on THE fp relay under the seat on mine that the ecm controls so that the relay powers up as soon as key is in the run position and used existing wiring to power the holley blue pump I put in place, some use the stock efi pump and regulate it down to the proper pressure for carb and then run the excess from the extra port on the regulator into the return line...either way will work
11-17-2008, 10:13 PM
#25
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location:
Posts: 939
Performance wise, No, not really. A while back, Popular Street Rodding did a really nice test of lifter types. They used cams that were very close to each other, one roller and one flat. One set slightly above stock, one set moderate, and one set extreme. All run on the dyno to see what the differance was.
At the end of the day, the roller lifters made a differance only with the extreme cam. In the other two, power levels were close enough to the same to call it that. The bottom line was if you're using a cam with more than 290* of duration, convert to roller. If not, stick with flat tappets. Performance wise.
Now, back to real life. There is a significant issue with flat tappet cams - they eat cam lobes. This has become a real problem in recent years. The "experts" say there are two reasons for this. First, zinc has been removed from motor oils to save the cats. Zinc is an anti-wear additive that preserves the cam lobes. Second, since all factory engines have roller lifters, there's a lack of quality parts for the flat tappets.
If you buy only high quality lifters - like Comp Cams - and use a zince additive every time you change oil, it shouldn't be an issue.
Break in at initial start up is critical with a flat tappet cam. Even with the best parts and oils, if you do it wrong you'll kill the cam in 15 minutes.
Personally, I prefer to use roller cams. The conversion is simple and not that expensive. Break in is easy. Cam selection is better every day.
At the end of the day, the roller lifters made a differance only with the extreme cam. In the other two, power levels were close enough to the same to call it that. The bottom line was if you're using a cam with more than 290* of duration, convert to roller. If not, stick with flat tappets. Performance wise.
Now, back to real life. There is a significant issue with flat tappet cams - they eat cam lobes. This has become a real problem in recent years. The "experts" say there are two reasons for this. First, zinc has been removed from motor oils to save the cats. Zinc is an anti-wear additive that preserves the cam lobes. Second, since all factory engines have roller lifters, there's a lack of quality parts for the flat tappets.
If you buy only high quality lifters - like Comp Cams - and use a zince additive every time you change oil, it shouldn't be an issue.
Break in at initial start up is critical with a flat tappet cam. Even with the best parts and oils, if you do it wrong you'll kill the cam in 15 minutes.
Personally, I prefer to use roller cams. The conversion is simple and not that expensive. Break in is easy. Cam selection is better every day.
11-17-2008, 11:00 PM
#26
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: WASHINGTON
Posts: 216
Well i would love to use my falcon motor. But im not even use which spacer i need for the balancer and all that. And if i dont use a mechanical pump how do i bypass that? I think the falcon motor is 9.5:1 if i remember right.
11-18-2008, 02:13 AM
#28
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: arlington,WA
Posts: 3,743
^ u can but u will need to run a reduced base ram so that the lifters will actually get oil if u dont run that cam the roller lifters sit to high and will get no oil.....and then zero to hardly any oil pressure.
