FivePointOhh

i dont know much about the car itself engine wise, but a guy i know runs in the high-ish 6's in the 1/8 and runs the exact set up i do except the control arms are diff then what i run and he has a tube k member

sub frames
eibach drag springs w/ airbag
strange engineering adj. strut/shocks
UPR double adj control arms u/l
QA1 tube k member with stock a arms i think
weld drag lights
welded TQ box seams
MT slicks


i think thats it. might have changed since the last time i saw it which was like a year ago. but his car is a beast and he hooks pretty hard....hope this helps

Portmaster

Thanks Ive been looking at the UPR rear stuff. I've got the BMR Front K member.

FivePointOhh

i run the UPR solid control arms. u/l both. it landed my pinion angle right on 4* and she seems to hook well on street tires. but now that i know a ton more about suspension then what i did then...i should have went adj. oh well. it should work for what im doing. 11 seconds on nitrous is all im lookin for. it be sweet if i could hit 11s n/a though but i think thats a tall order for mod'd '66 289 heads.

cccharleston

What?

Portmaster

Well actually 500 rwhp isn't that much in this day and time. Bottom line it's going to be a street car thats see's some strip duty. I've never been a big Fox Body mustang fan. I still think it's one of the ugliest cars Ford ever built. But I also think the Coupe done right just looks Nasty (in a good way). I know what I want and will be satisfied when I get there. I know where to draw the line between street car and Race car. I don't want a race car and I know I don't want a full frame car. I spend a lot of time at drag strips and I've seen some hauling Fox bodies on stock style suspension. I don't want a Tubbed car, back halfed car but I'm trying to keep the suspension in stock form but just want to upgrade. Ive owned a lot of quick street cars and only had one that I tubbed and chassis (72 Vega) that I liked. When I get to the point I planned for then I'll stop and enjoy the car.

I've had my butt handed to me at the dragstip by enough Stock suspension Fox bodies to know that it can be done. Plus I have a budget I set for the car from the price of the car to completion and thats 20K. Thats not much when you build a car from the ground up so I have to find the best bang for the buck.

Hamutoff

Your application is a spirited driver with some fun at the track.

This is my app also, misfortune have put the brakes on my project but many hours of work and research are mine to share.

#1 subframe connectors... so important for fox mustangs that everybody who is going to keep their and likes it should do this. I found what I think are the best UMI Performance full length subframe

...unique design utilizes numerous weld points through out both the front and rear subframes ... tying into the seat mounts and incorporating torque box reinforcement ... constructed of 1.250” x 2” x .120” wall thickness rectangular tubing using precision bent and machined .188” mounting plates.

http://www.umiperformance.com/1100?category_id=9

* also "battle boxes"
* also re-inforcement plates, install all three items in such a manner, using my car as example:

http://www.thatmetalbox.com/Automoti...gWeldComplete/




#2 upper control arms; using the fox mustang geometry that binds up leads me to only recommend the currie "johnny joint" or edelbrock which incorporate a pivot but are not simply steel on steel, additionally they are adjustible for length you can set your pinion angle

#3 lower control arms, I like the steeda billet units for your app, adjustible and solid, mm also has the "weight jackers, and grantenelli

#4 you might want to do the upper control arm reinforcement too

#5 moroso sells springs differ pass and driver, otherwise 4 banger rear springs, otherwise coil over...and a upper bracing system to tie the towers together

#6 strange adj shocks and struts


thats the short list

Portmaster

Thanks Hanutoff, I already have my subframe connectors (weld in) but I won't those in until I get the car to fighting weight. I also checked out the UPR Weight jackers you mentioned (Thanks). I've seen Garnatelli's and maximum motorsports weight jackers but I have heard some bad stuff about Granatelli and they be misinformation like a lot of other stuff. I have heard some good things about the battle boxes. Thank you for your input.

90notch3

keep it simple man go with upr! great service great parts. i have the upr front suspension kit cant go wrong it fits great and wow the chrome molly looks amazing. and im about to go with the upr solid double adjustable control arms upper and lower. ive heard anything with good power and rubber bushings will have wheel hop.... get some bolt/weld in reinforcements off ebay and call it a day!

cch

Steeda adjustable upper and lower control arms, Steeda Superlite drag springs, Subframe Connectors and an anti roll bar. Should launch straight and hard. Good luck bud!

Hamutoff

as the application is a driver I STRONGLY recommend AGAINST chrome molly suspension components such as tubular K member, mild steel fits the app becasue a random drive in the hills could suddenly find you driving off a cliff as the super hard but brittle chrome molly /cm welds break