5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

traction lok clutches

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Old 12-09-2008, 03:53 PM
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jkrum10238
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Default traction lok clutches

i was reading on 5.0 mag about rebuilding one which im doing its a piece of cake anyway, im surious they mentioned putting extra clutches in to make it tighter does anyone sell a kit with extra clutches or am i going to have to buy two kits
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Old 12-09-2008, 04:23 PM
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Portmaster
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I wouldn't put to much stock in 5.0 magazine. Get a good set of clutches and properly install them. When you can over power it you need to step up to a better carrier.

Which month was that. I don't remember seeing an article between all the adds.lol
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Old 12-09-2008, 04:29 PM
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86HOGT
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When I rebuilt mine I just replaced a shim on each side with two good friction discs from the old pack to have it shim|friction|shim|friction etc... instead of friction|shim|shim|friction...

This is what they meant and is pretty standard practice if you ask me.
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Old 12-09-2008, 04:49 PM
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jkrum10238
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i was thinking something along those lines, should i bother with carbons for longer life i found it online threw google just search traction lok in quotes
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Old 12-09-2008, 04:54 PM
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mjr46
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you can only get it so thick before you won't be able to roll the spider gears back in.....I've done it both ways with good results
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Old 12-09-2008, 05:49 PM
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Portmaster
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If you get the rear to tight and hit a curve hard in the rain have your seat belt fastened and your collision insurance paid up. The guys in magazines don't drive in the rain like people in the real world.
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Old 12-09-2008, 06:15 PM
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67mustang302
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I'd use the carbon clutches for longer life if it were me.
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Old 12-09-2008, 09:23 PM
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FLcracker9
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There is a factory spec (min/max) for the thickness of the clutch pack assembly when new. Factory recommends .640 - .645 when compressed (I use a c-clamp to compress the pack, then measure with a digital caliper). If you want to increase the friction for better performance, you can set it up tighter (steels come in different thicknesses), somewhere in the .650 - .660 range. Any tighter, and you won't get the spiders back in. I don't believe additional clutches offer much of an advantage over the factory set up. Older models (80s era) arranged the clutches and steels differently than the newer models (90s era), but the set up that seems to work best is SFSSFSF-Shim (S-steel, F=friction).
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Old 12-10-2008, 03:30 PM
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jkrum10238
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Originally Posted by Portmaster
If you get the rear to tight and hit a curve hard in the rain have your seat belt fastened and your collision insurance paid up. The guys in magazines don't drive in the rain like people in the real world.
its a good thing i dont drive mine in the rain
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Old 12-10-2008, 05:44 PM
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The shop thats going to rebuild mine suggested the extra clutch for track use. He said I might notice it some cornering on the highway. I'am leaning towards the extra clutch and won't drive in the rain.
Barryb
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