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Helping a friend with a carbed H/C/I

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Old 12-15-2008, 09:45 PM
  #21  
aode08
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i turned mine backward in my old 302, didnt make any noise and does make more power.
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Old 12-15-2008, 10:34 PM
  #22  
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What kind of numbers do you guys think a 302 set up properly with AFR 185s an RPM air gap, and a .550+ lift cam get? I was wondering how the cars street manners will be too, I'm sure he can live with something that is a little rough as it won't be an everyday commuter, but I was just wondering. Again, thanks for all the input and help.
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Old 12-15-2008, 10:52 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Rajun_Cajun
"The piston pinholes are offset (note the difference between dimensions A and B). Sherman says installing the piston “backward” with the notch facing toward the rear as shown is worth 15-30 hp, albeit at the price of increased noise when the engine is cold."


That quote was on the left side of the article with the pics. Anyone know anything about that? Does it hold true? And what kind of noise are we talking about here?

Yes and no.

It makes the piston hang a little longer and higher in the bore at TDC.

Not enough that you would notice on a street engine.Maybe on a race engine where everything has been designed and chosen for absolute maximum HP.Not to mention you will be giving up longevity.And yes they have a noticeable "PISTON SLAP" when cold.

Basically i wouldnt advise it but to each his own.
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Old 12-16-2008, 03:32 PM
  #24  
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So I was looking on the AFR website and they have dyno results for different combos. I was wondering how accurate these would be.
Horsepower:421 HP
Engine:302ci
Heads:165cc AFR
Compression:10:1
Carburetor:650 cfm Speed Demon 80/84 Jets
Ignition:MSD Digital 7, 34° Timing
Cam:Comp Cams Extreme Energy Hyd Roller Cam, 565/574 232/240 112 Lobe Sep. with 1.6 Rockers
Exhaust:1 3/4
Fuel:92 Octane
Manifold: Permormer RPM

They say that they get over 300 ft. lbs. of torque at 2000 rpms and over 350 from 3500-6100 rpms with as much as 380 at 4500 rpms and they make 421 hp at 6100 rpms and 360 hp and more from 5000 rpms on up to redline. Does this sound like a decent street package for a low 12 second car or what?

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Old 12-16-2008, 05:55 PM
  #25  
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Don't buy those tiny AFR 165s. They are a dead end head and the resell won't be that great because of it. The TFS Twisted Wedge head is going to be your best bang for the buck on the market. It gives the largest OTS cam selection for a 2.02" head on a stock shortblock. It can also be ported to grow as your combo(s) get more extreme. You can take your car from the 13s to the 8s and never buy another head.
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Old 12-16-2008, 06:16 PM
  #26  
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I kind of like the idea of not needing to cut the pistons. The 165s seem to have a decent flow rate and according to the website pull decent numbers. Is there any way to get the TFS heads to work without notching the pistons besides using a small cam?
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Old 12-16-2008, 06:52 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Projectquick
I kind of like the idea of not needing to cut the pistons. The 165s seem to have a decent flow rate and according to the website pull decent numbers. Is there any way to get the TFS heads to work without notching the pistons besides using a small cam?
The TFS TW heads won't limit you anymore than the AFR 165s. They are a direct bolt-on and won't require you to notch the pistons on a wide variety of cams. Of course, I recommend going with a custom camshaft. It's not required, but it is the smart choice.
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Old 12-16-2008, 07:03 PM
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I understand, and I've told this kid a hundred times a custom grind would be best, but he wants something we can bolt together in his driveway in a weekend or two and take to the track and be capable of low 12 second passes. As long as its built right I don't see why this isn't possible.
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Old 12-16-2008, 07:13 PM
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While we're on the subject of TFS heads, I looked at the street ones and they said that the pistons require not notching if using a cam within the specs the list, the street/strip heads basically have the same specs, so whats the difference, and why do the s/s heads "require the TFS pistons"?
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Old 12-16-2008, 08:30 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Projectquick
I understand, and I've told this kid a hundred times a custom grind would be best, but he wants something we can bolt together in his driveway in a weekend or two and take to the track and be capable of low 12 second passes. As long as its built right I don't see why this isn't possible.
You're going to change camshafts, correct? What's the difference in swapping in a OTS camshaft and a custom camshaft? What would keep you from buying the custom camshaft and going with an OTS camshaft instead?
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