Smitty0425

Thanks for all the advice. I am going to get her hooked up to a scanner and check for codes. Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor all look good, I think there is a stock coil though. Yes I am on street tires and no I don't get good traction off the line. I do not have an adjustable frp yet. I am going to work on getting heads and cam combo, intake, throttle body, better spark and who knows what else. I hear that heads/cam are the best horse per dollar upgrade. I've only had the car about 8 months and am getting ready to dump some money into it.

I just wanted to get some advice from all of you out there before I start spending.

Thanks again.....you all rock for sharing your knowledge.

Jon

FORD TOUGH

Let us know what happens when you get it ran on the scanner.

86 5.0L

-1, nitrous

302army187

haha, true story!

took 2.1 seconds off my ET's with a 50shot!
60ft went from 2.5 to 2.0

(no joke, 5880 track elevation, AOD with stock stall)

aode08

An oxygen sensor creates its on dc current.

A torch on the sensor is only used to test the sensor to see if it its slow responding, not responding, or fluctuates.

Never can these sensors be fixed, dirt is not the cause of failure, but rather bad converters,lean conditions, rtv, or old age.

After 70,000 miles they don't work well as they can.

They are a tune up item, so replace.

silver91gt

when my motor was almost stock I went from running 14.20s to 13.40s by adding some mickey thompson drag radials. and with a 125 dry shot I got it to run 11.98

PJC Racing

What springs were the heads rebuilt with? They are compatable with the cam right? The rpm indicates a spring issue to me. With your combination of parts, the car would probably be quicker with a stock cam and a proper tune. As for the A:F ratio, you may what to look at the MAF.

PJC Racing

One more thing: Your using stock pushrods right, did you check for proper pushrod length? The base circle on the aftermarket cam can be larger or smaller than the stock cam making the pushrods too long or too short for proper geometry.

Smitty0425

Well guys, I got my neighbor the mechanic to put my car on a snap-on scanner and he was able to get the check engine light to display some codes! Here's what we found, the check engine light flashed in this order:
8
5
8
5
1
1
1
1
1

Apparently the 8's are something to do with the auto to 5 speed swap.
The 5's have something to do with the idle speed.
And the 1's are Fuel or air metering. So I'm not sure where to go from here. Maybe reflashing my computer??

And to answer PJC Racing's questions, I am not sure about the springs or the pushrods, the heads were finished before I took possesion of the car and preformed by the previous owner. I am looking for a new maf and throttle body....any ideas on sizes on those??

Thanks again all of you for your help!!

aode08

got a specific 2 digit code?


flash flash pause flash = 21


= 2 pulses pause 1 pulse