Too Rich? Please help....
#1
Too Rich? Please help....
I know its long but....
alright my car ran fine until one day I crank it up and I hear a distinct different sound in the exhaust and the car starts smoking. I let it run for a bit and I look at my mufflers and there is a puddle of Grey liquid below the mufflers. I believe this is gas. When ever I crank up the car now I am overcome with the smell of gas.
I let the car sit for 30 mins.... come back and start it up and it ran fine for about 5 mins once then it returned to the way before as described.
I then replaced the O2 sensors, both of them.... and still no change....
So next I think maybe the fuel pressure regulator........after a while I've managed to replace the FPR and since I had to take off a bunch of stuff to get the the FPR i just went ahead and put new O-ring kits on all of the injectors
My car has done this before about 2 years ago...but back then the engine had a good bit of miles and I wanted to rebuild it anyways so I just went ahead and did a complete overhaul, bored .40 and complete rebuild on both heads....since rebuild up till now its run great, i've probably put about 4k on the engine
please guys I need some help, you've all helped me before in my endeavors and now I look towards your wisdom and experience once again... thanks guys any help appreciated...
alright my car ran fine until one day I crank it up and I hear a distinct different sound in the exhaust and the car starts smoking. I let it run for a bit and I look at my mufflers and there is a puddle of Grey liquid below the mufflers. I believe this is gas. When ever I crank up the car now I am overcome with the smell of gas.
I let the car sit for 30 mins.... come back and start it up and it ran fine for about 5 mins once then it returned to the way before as described.
I then replaced the O2 sensors, both of them.... and still no change....
So next I think maybe the fuel pressure regulator........after a while I've managed to replace the FPR and since I had to take off a bunch of stuff to get the the FPR i just went ahead and put new O-ring kits on all of the injectors
My car has done this before about 2 years ago...but back then the engine had a good bit of miles and I wanted to rebuild it anyways so I just went ahead and did a complete overhaul, bored .40 and complete rebuild on both heads....since rebuild up till now its run great, i've probably put about 4k on the engine
please guys I need some help, you've all helped me before in my endeavors and now I look towards your wisdom and experience once again... thanks guys any help appreciated...
#2
#3
Test results
KOEO- 63-63
KOER- 44-33-21-94
as far as I can tell these are the correct problem codes....I'm sure I did the running test correctly but not entirely sure the not running test codes are exact. What do these codes mean?
thanks
KOER- 44-33-21-94
as far as I can tell these are the correct problem codes....I'm sure I did the running test correctly but not entirely sure the not running test codes are exact. What do these codes mean?
thanks
#4
Code 63 = Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Below Minimum Voltage (O,M,R)
44 and 94 = thermactor or smog pump disabled, it will not cause any problems
33 = EGR not sensed opening = EGR deleted, no problem here either
21 = ECT reading or coolant was too cold for the KOER (<170°F)
Suggest to clear codes (disconnect battery for 10 min.), rerun a KOEO to make sure code 63 was erased from memory, or LUK if it shows up again.
44 and 94 = thermactor or smog pump disabled, it will not cause any problems
33 = EGR not sensed opening = EGR deleted, no problem here either
21 = ECT reading or coolant was too cold for the KOER (<170°F)
Suggest to clear codes (disconnect battery for 10 min.), rerun a KOEO to make sure code 63 was erased from memory, or LUK if it shows up again.
#5
good suggestions. the low ect would cause it to run rich sense the computer richens when cold. Also if the tps code comes back check and see if you have a good reference voltage at it. Please don't be like every other idiot who throws parts at a car insted of correctly diagnosing the issue. It will save you a lot of money in the long run and you'll learn a thing or two.
#6
thanks
will do, and thanks for the quick response wow.... i'll reset the comp. and do another diagnostic check and LUK..... thanks again for the quick response and suggestions i'm learning it really pays off to know what the hell your doing....
thanks again..
thanks again..
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