andy_2123

Okay, got a Z cam for christmas, I wanna make it work but don't know if it will. I have trickflow twisted wedge heads found that i plan to buy along with a trickflow intake. I have heard that a z-cam will not work with stock heads, but would it be okay with twisted wedge heads? oh and i plan on running 1.6 rockers. please let me know any and all issues that may occur and ways to fix them. I would like to keep this cam and make it work if possible, without cutting my pistons

mjr46

you'll need to check for ptv an you'll need to get the proper springs installed on te heads for that cam

andy_2123

proper springs isn't a problem...but does anyone have any experience w/this cam with stock pistons? and is there anything i can do besides cutting my pistons if it doesn't clear?

Joel5.0

The Z-cam ..... need to degree it, check PtV and notch pistons if required...... that intake valve opens early, and may be past .110" open @TDC.

mjr46

no....

Portmaster

I doubt you have a problem but you really need to check PTV clearance. It needs more than just to clear. You need a min of .080 on the intake valve and a min of .100 on the exhaust side. I like to see .100 or better on the intake as well because if you wind it up to tight during a missed shift and float the valves you need that extra room in there as a buffer. As far as degreeing the cam it's always a good idea to check it if you learn how to do it. In about 99% of all the engines I've built they end up going in right on the 0 setting. On rare occassions maybe +-2 degrees. I bought a Cloyes Hex-adjust chain set for mine only to wind up at 0 which is how it is most of the time. I use a Comp 4791 degree wheel and lot of other expensive equiptment to verify the degree on the cam. It's just habit But if I was doing this in the driveway at my brothers house 500 miles away I'd feel pretty comfortable by throwing the cam in at the 0 setting on the chain. I find the degreeing process a lot more critical on engines with twin cams such as a 4.6

The point being is that if you are on a limited budget and can't afford a degree wheel and related tools to do the job I wouldn't worry to much about degreeing it. Id worry more about PTV clearance. I'm sure I'm going to get flamed on the degree thing but I bet there isn't a guy on this forum who has done any work at all that hasn't put a cam in without degreeing it. I bet over half the people that tell you that you better have it done wouldn't know a degree wheel if it hit them in the head.

Joel5.0

1. I am 100% of the people in this thread that did say he must degree it. Do I know what a degree wheel is or looks like?.......... maybe.

2. Do you know there could be a 4° difference in the alphabet cams when installed "dot-to-dot"? I do. Would it be more budget oriented to incur in a piston notching procedure (if the cam ends up 4° advanced or IO @.050 happening @11° BTDC w/out him knowing it) than making sure the cam events are to specs? ... or have you forgotten about the relationship between cam timing events and PtV clearance?

3. This is NOT a typical OEM replacement cam, or E, B, X, Stg 1 cam upgrade.....if he (or anybody) treats that cam installation as "typical"........ surprises (that will indeed affect budget, BTW) will/could happen.

4. Have you checked the resulting clearance with a Z-303 cam and TW heads on a 302 setup with stock pistons?..... When were the events happening in that sample? Would those results be the same for a similar setup in a different engine?

5. Sir.... I say this with the utmost respect, believe it or not.... but based on all the attached pics in your signature, you need to foster quality builds (not assemblies) + the practice of doing things BTB (= ByThe Book).... not the usual "bolt on" approach. IOW..... you supposedly have the knowledge, care sharing it? Rather than continue promoting the lack of valuation of this "great vice/passion of ours"?......IMHO..... NO.

6. You knew you were going to get some flames due to that comment, what really worries/surprises me, is the preparation of the source those comments/suggestions come from.

7. You have mentioned previously your BBC background, here's a little experience shared from a humble SBF/import (oops) tinkerer....... details DO make a difference in performance.... don't discourage them....... patronize quality and accuracy.... rather than the "bolt on" approach.

Just a thought.

Portmaster

Learn to read EVERYTHING I say Joel. I didn't discorage anything. Youre the guy who does that. Get off your pedestal and try walking down the driveway of the average gearhead.

Joel5.0

Sir... ... I do read everything..... 3-4 times before posting anything. The average gearhead?.... BTSTDT every day of my life, reason why I test everything 3-4 times before telling a customer (at no added cost) he/she has to withdraw $250+ to get his/her car fixed. And if "walking down the driveway of the average gearhead" = getting off the doing things the correct way avenue, the way you were supposedly taught to do things, and should encourage following pedestal ............ it's really cozy up here. "Limited budget" considerations shouldn't be an excuse to not perform all the required tests/verifications..... on the contrary, it makes them a requirement.

Here's a little business tip I've learned the hard way for over ~20 years...... by simply giving the fortuitous possibility of a cheap alternative from happening, although possible indeed...... the affected person will blame you if he chooses it w/out checking (85% of the time), and it doesn't work. If a X-303 is a cam worthy of being degreed for accuracy, due to its events...... wouldn't a Z-303 (not too common as a cam choice) demand it?

OP... it's YCYDYP (see sig for definition), if you feel lucky go ahead. Just ponder what alternative would be the less expensive one, under any circumstance......Good Luck!

One8Seven

I feel like I am reading Arabic from left to right!
PortMaster and Joel5.0, just know that my Google search is getting pissed from me cross referencing. I have a lot to learn!!!